Old Garage - Fixing/Repairing an entry door

[monk302]

All,

I have an old garage (1913 construction) that I am rehabbing. It constructed with a large block terracotta. One of the projects I need to tackle next is my side entry door. Right now, there is a crappy interior wood frame door that is framed against the terracotta block.

In order to secure this garage better, I am trying to figure out how to fix this situation. My initial thought is to put in a prehung steel door with steel frame. I will be ripping out all the existing wood so there will just be a hole where the door should be prior to the insulation.

So a few things. Should I put in a prehung steel frame & door? Additionally, you may notice the vertical crack above the door. I would estimate this to be a 1/4 inch wide. Are there any issues that you all see with this crack and removing the existing door? Will I need to put in a header? Any of your thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[FANTM58]

depending on the depth of the throat,,they make different size steel frames in knock down style. for 4" or 6" ETC.

 

[buntingmiester]

concrete lintel would be my recommendation, extending at least 8" on either side of the door opening......buntingmiester

 

[padroo]

I agree, that door needs a lintel above it, you could use a steel one or a prefabricated concrete one and another option is to pour one with concrete with rebar poured in place. The door frame should not take the building load.

 

[vettex2]

I always wanted a door from an old vault.

 

[DCarr2]

that huge crack above the door worries me.

 

[monk302]

concrete lintel would be my recommendation, extending at least 8" on either side of the door opening......buntingmiester

Thanks guys, wanted to get some additional opinions on this before I set forward doing an improper repair. I will keep you all updated with the repair. Looking forward to getting this garage secure.

 

[kbs2244]

TerraCotta block is pretty light and not all that strong.
A 4x4 angle iron will work for a lintel.
Make is 2 feet longer than your opening so you have a foot of support on either side.
The door will come with install instructions and rough opening sizes.

 

[The Cobbler]

steel lintel. any type pf exterior rated door. that terracotta brick is hard to attach to as it's very brittle. maybe a hollow metal door & frame with concrete poured into the frame would be an option

 

[Shabiran]

What is the difference between an R10 Thermacore garage door and an R10 Wayne Dalton garage door? Which one is better?

 

[monk302]

steel lintel. any type pf exterior rated door. that terracotta brick is hard to attach to as it's very brittle. maybe a hollow metal door & frame with concrete poured into the frame would be an option

The brick is incredibly brittle. I was thinking of doing an install like this Youtube video. He poured concrete into the frame after notching the brick and setting attachment points beyond the frame of the door.

 

[The Cobbler]

I agree with most of his install, but I would not break the block out to fit the tabs, they are for new install. if you break holes in the edge of the block so the sand mix can flow in you will have plenty of shear . knock a hole in the top course so you can fill from there. tap the frame as he did to help move the mix down. I have done may retro's this way and never been an issue years later. use sand mix cause the stone can dam up and stop the flow to the bottom of the frame.

 

[The Cobbler]

looking at the pics again it looks like the block will be open on the edges, so you can put in some blocking back a ways and do as I suggested above.

 

[DCarr2]

no comments on that massive crack above the door you could drive a truck thruogh?

for those that missed it

 

[kbs2244]

That crack is due to the lack of a proper lintel during the original install.
The block to the right in the RIC is sagging.
When you are installing the new steel one be prepared to jack it up level.

 

[monk302]

After looking into this more, what are the differences between using a concrete lintel vs. steel? What are the major differences between the two for this application?

 

[kbs2244]

A concrete one will be 4 to 6 inches deep and require that much block be removed ti slip it into place.
A steel one (4x4 angle iron) will be 1/4 inch thick and can be slipped into a ground out joint.

 

[monk302]

A concrete one will be 4 to 6 inches deep and require that much block be removed ti slip it into place.
A steel one (4x4 angle iron) will be 1/4 inch thick and can be slipped into a ground out joint.

Thank you KBS224.

 

[monk302]

Another question. If I use a 4x4 angle iron as you described, grinding out a joint, and then inserting one side of the angle iron, won't there be one side that is on the exterior of the wall running vertically? I attached a diagram to further explain my description.

Thanks again for all the help.

 

[kbs2244]

Yes, the iron will be visible unless covered with trim.

 

[monk302]

Yes, the iron will be visible unless covered with trim.

Thanks again KBS.

 

[monk302]

Guys,

So I finally got around to doing this, in the cooler weather thankfully. Had a door made up along with three aluminum window (64"x34") and installed this past week. It turns out that when they built the garage in 1913, they put wood horizontally through the block which ultimately failed at some point. Interesting find when we ripped out the original "lintel." I have more pictures, but here is the start.