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Old Homelite generator question [Solved!]

Fly Fishing Rick

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I was given this generator by my uncle today who said it prolly hadn't been started in 15 years. Well I got it running, but there's a wire just floating around that has me curious. Anyone know what this white wire could be for? looks like it has some kind of a pin connection at the end and appears to run up to the on/off switch. I've tried finding the manual for it online but can't find the manual for this specific version of this model.
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mm08822

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Follow where it goes to. It could be a spare connection to the coil used as shutdown from low oil, high temp, etc.
 
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Fly Fishing Rick

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I would first check for voltage with it running. If no juice then check for continuity to the chassis. If neither I have no clue.
Gonna try that but it appears I need a new spark plug first. Went to start it again to check and nothing, rechecked everything to find I now have no spark. Getting a resistance reading of 28k ohms on the plug, it's a gonner. Strange it would work long enough to get it running once for 30 seconds till I turned it off. Guess that was the last spark it was ever going to make lol.
 

PoorUB

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I agree with the other comments, probably just a kills switch wire.

As for the no spark situation, is it full of oil? If it has a low oil shut down it needs to be full! And I mean full of oil or the low oil reset won't reset and it won't have spark.
 
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Fly Fishing Rick

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I agree with the other comments, probably just a kills switch wire.

As for the no spark situation, is it full of oil? If it has a low oil shut down it needs to be full! And I mean full of oil or the low oil reset won't reset and it won't have spark.
I checked the oil before even attempting to start it and it's full and clean. I believe it's just a bad plug, based on the resistance test results on the plug itself. Sure won't hurt anything to put a nice new one in it for $3-5. Total **** day outside today though, so it can wait till I can see my roads or I have to head that way for some other reason lol.
 
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Fly Fishing Rick

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So I was wrong, it wasn't the plug. I think maybe it's a bad switch or a wiring issue. It will produce spark if I disconnect the white kill wire from the coil. When I perform a continuity check on the switch it disconnects the white from the black wire when on, but stays connected to the red. When the switch is off, it connects the white to the black again.20251212_134823.jpg
 
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dave*99

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Perhaps try disconnecting the red wire and see if it runs (provided the oil level is correct.)

The white is the kill wire. It get connected to black (ground) to kill the motor
Or it gets connected to red and when oil is low, red goes to ground and kills the motor.
 
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Fly Fishing Rick

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Perhaps try disconnecting the red wire and see if it runs (provided the oil level is correct.)

The white is the kill wire. It get connected to black (ground) to kill the motor
Or it gets connected to red and when oil is low, red goes to ground and kills the motor.
That's what I did and it runs without issue now. It's definitely a faulty low oil sensor.
 

PoorUB

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That's what I did and it runs without issue now. It's definitely a faulty low oil sensor.
Again, are you absolutely certain it is full on oil. The oil sensors on this older B&S engines required to oil to be absolutely full to reset them, maybe a 1/8" over full.

B&S came out with these oil sensors in the 80's when I had my shop. I can not tell you the number of engines that came in that were a touch low that didn't run. Toss in a few ounces of oil and they would run.

I had a large construction company with Lincoln welders that were powered by 16 HP B&S engines. They would come in with the connecting rod broken, the oil was extremely low and the low oil safety disconnected. They kept telling me the low oil safety was bad, but I was certain they never filled the oil all the way. They would tell me they put some oil in it and I would ask if they filled it? Nope! Usually they put in enough to get it half way between the add and full, then snip the wire because it wouldn't run! I would rebuild the engine, reconnect the low oil shut down and it worked just fine. I preached to these guy to not just sort of fill it up, but over fill it slightly to reset the safety.

For what it is worth, I never saw a failed low oil sensor. They don't fail.
 
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Fly Fishing Rick

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Again, are you absolutely certain it is full on oil. The oil sensors on this older B&S engines required to oil to be absolutely full to reset them, maybe a 1/8" over full.

B&S came out with these oil sensors in the 80's when I had my shop. I can not tell you the number of engines that came in that were a touch low that didn't run. Toss in a few ounces of oil and they would run.

I had a large construction company with Lincoln welders that were powered by 16 HP B&S engines. They would come in with the connecting rod broken, the oil was extremely low and the low oil safety disconnected. They kept telling me the low oil safety was bad, but I was certain they never filled the oil all the way. They would tell me they put some oil in it and I would ask if they filled it? Nope! Usually they put in enough to get it half way between the add and full, then snip the wire because it wouldn't run! I would rebuild the engine, reconnect the low oil shut down and it worked just fine. I preached to these guy to not just sort of fill it up, but over fill it slightly to reset the safety.

For what it is worth, I never saw a failed low oil sensor. They don't fail.
It's just an open reservoir with no dipstick and it's as full as it can be without running out.
 

Milton Shaw

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I learned as a teenager that the first thing you do is check the oil before you try to start an engine. When it starts you immediately start to rev the rpms up to check motor, if no oil there goes the motor some times.
 
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