Old mans shop

[raco232]

Here are a few photos of my new 30x50x13 pole barn.

How would you folks insulate the walls? And what wall covering? I live near Memphis, so it doesn’t have to be super insulated. I’m just going to do woodworking and mechanical work. I am open to any idea on how to finish it out. I do plan on building a 10x30 loft for storage on the end with the windows.

Thanks for any help that I might get!

 

[53PontiacSD]

Well, on my building, I had it spray foamed. So far I can tell a lot of difference in temperature. Not so much on noise factor though. Your walls look like an inch and a half thick. Styrofoam might be an alternative and then sheetrock or OSB or plywood to finish out. Nice shop you have there. Keep posting pictures.

 

[raco232]

Well, on my building, I had it spray foamed. So far I can tell a lot of difference in temperature. Not so much on noise factor though. Your walls look like an inch and a half thick. Styrofoam might be an alternative and then sheetrock or OSB or plywood to finish out. Nice shop you have there. Keep posting pictures.

Thanks for the suggestions, at least you have something constructive to say. The styrofoam is a good idea and never thought of it. I have thought of the osb and plywood. Is there really much of a difference in using plywood instead of osb? I plan on painting the walls, so is there any advantage of plywood other than the surface texture? There is a huge difference in price and just trying to save $ where I can, but if there is a good trade off, I will do it.

 

[53PontiacSD]

I used osb on part of mine. It soaked the paint really fast. Took three coats. A few chips unglued themselves, but other than that I was ok with it. Spraying it might have been better than rolling, but I didn't have access to air yet or an airless. I did use styrofoam on the overhead door. Helped tremendously. Good luck and think about good lighting too. LED is the best I found.

 

[Fyrme]

Nice looking shop. I have always loved the ascetics of a building with deep overhangs. I only have a 12" soffit and I have to keep the doors closed in a heavy rain to avoid the first 3 feet inside the door getting soaked. So yes rusty1, they do have a purpose.

As far as plywood vs. osb. I had a small workshop I I sheeted in osb back when it was only like $7/sheet. Even after I painted it, I hated the look of it. So this time I went the plywood route. Well actually 5/8" t1-11 siding that I flipped over backwards. I used the siding because I found it for $16 per sheet at a discount/2nd's lumber store. You might check around your area for one of those stores. You can usually get lumber quite a bit cheaper than a regular lumber yard.

A lot of guys here love the osb. But most would agree, plywood is stronger if you like to hang things from it. You always have the option to skim coat what ever you put up with drywall mud and sand it. Then you'd have the benefits of plywood and drywall!

 

[Fyrme]

Oh, and since your'e still in the early stages of the build. if you are looking for an interior style that is different from you everyday continuous wall. I designed my walls to set back 3/4" behind each post, leaving them exposed. It's a bit more work, and a few more 2x4's, but I have no vertical joints in my walls to look at. Originally I was going to stain the posts, but with the other colors I was using in the shop, painting them looked better.

Here's the only good pic I have at the moment. (The vertical joint you see in the pic is drywall on top of the plywood for heat protection behind the wood stove)

 

[lakeroadster]

Nice shop raco232.

Probably the quickest and easiest insulation and interior sheathing is to use barn blanket insulation and steel sheathing.

But if you are wanting to hang cabinets or something heavy on the walls you'll need some sort of stud wall sub structure.

Do a Google search using "barn insulation blankets".. you'll see the options.

If you're wanting a stud wall sub-structure here's how I did mine. See thread 142 here: https://talk.classicparts.com/threads/lakeroadsters-high-country-barn.22110/page-8

Divider wall construction.. see thread 133 and 135 here:
https://talk.classicparts.com/threads/lakeroadsters-high-country-barn.22110/page-7

I was concerned about the floating slab rising and falling, so the cabinet wall I built doesn't attach to the concrete and is a few inches off the floor. The divider walls attach to the floor but not the walls or trusses. Basically all are floating walls. May not be an issue for you if freezing and thawing isn't likely in your area.

Hope that helps. And again, congrat's on you new shop. Very well done.

 

[53PontiacSD]

I think lakeroadster's idea is pretty cool. It insulated his walls well and looks like it gave plenty of support for hanging anything off of a wall.

 

[53PontiacSD]

If you look closely at fyrme's walls, they look pretty smooth as far as finish. Unfortunately, with osb, you get a finish similar to popcorn ceilings.

 

[Fyrme]

Yes, they are relatively smooth. I filled a few knot holes and checks with drywall mud. However you can still see the grain when you get close to it. I like Lakeroadster's framing too. Definitely over built.

 

[53PontiacSD]

I have a 30x40x12 shop I just built. My electrician friend suggested UFO LED lights of at least 20,000 lumens. So I located 4 22,500 lumens each. One didn't last long so I went with three. 67,500 lumens total. They are 150 watts. Don't look directly at them when they are turned on. You'll just see spots for a while. Lighter colors are good too, so they will reflect more light. I haven't painted the top half, because I don't like climbing ladders. Well there you go, some more input.

 

[53PontiacSD]

Oh, about that overhang, I wish I could have done that on one side of my building. But it wasn't in the cards. It's awesome.

 

[53PontiacSD]

I guess you have been busy in the shop. Remember.....post pictures

 

[raco232]

Yes, I have been busy, but unfortunately not working on the shop. Family and work come first. Gotta keep family happy and the checking account stocked with $. Right now, the $ is on the short side. Oh well, at least the building is up and paid for. I would like to get electric ran to it, but wondering if having the power company set a meter at the shop is best or changing my panel out in the house and set a subpanel in shop would be better. In the house, the panel is out of spaces and there are also the slim line breakers in it, so no room for additional breakers. I will talk with power company tomorrow and see if they can run an underground line and set a meter at the shop. It sure would be cheaper right now, as if I ran a line to the shop, the wiring and conduit will be around $1100 and that is with me doing it myself.

I'll report back later on what I found out from them. It will be sometime this week I hope.

Oh yea, thanks for the compliments. All I have done outside was do some cleaning up and grading the ground. It is still bare dirt.

What do you think about guttering? I am thinking I might need to do that next, not unless there might be a reason not to. Sorry for jumping around one topics, as I am not much of a communicator on a computer. My brain sometimes goes from one to another in a second.

Another thing, the little utility shed is going to get tore down this year. I just need to clean it out, put the **** under the lean-to and try to save as many boards so that I can build shelving or benches in the new shop.

 

[53PontiacSD]

Well, I haven't done it yet, but I was thinking on running continuous gutter on mine. Maybe if it ever does rain around here again it might keep it away from the foundation. I had a separate meter run to the shop. Now it makes 3. The house, garage and shop are all on separate meters. Well hopefully they won't be too expensive to get what you want done. Have a great day.

Billy