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Old Quincy Compressor

Premium08

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Jun 6, 2014
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362
Location
Littleton, NC
This old compressor has been sitting for years not running at my work. Finally the other day I decided to take it out and replace with a harbor freight 60gallon. We were just going to scrap it, but I'd figured I'd post it up on here to see if it's worth fixing, where to find parts, and is it worth anything in it's current state?

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Lightfoot

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Dec 6, 2010
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Cool old machine. The only thing i'd be concerned about would be the tank and the possibility of it rusting from the inside. I've seen one too many pictures of what can happen when one of those explodes. /but then again, i worry too much.
 

Jimithing616

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Nov 21, 2017
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Minnesota
I’m sure there are restoration guys that would love to take this on, I however, always worry about the horror stories you hear of when compressors that are rusty, from water sitting in them or w/e, end up blowing up and killing someone... so, I stick with my new compressor, that I’ve owned since day one, so I know it’s not had water sitting in it and is safe because I’ve done the maintenance haha.... but im weird... I also don’t like flying because I’m not the one piloting the plane.... and I don’t have the faintest clue how to fly a plane either mind you.... but none the less, I always need to be in control! To the chagrin of all my ex GFs ....
 

yaidunno

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The problem with rust in the bottom of a tank is that it can build up in layers and remain intact. This will still give a reasonable reading on your ultrasound, but not be structurally sound. If I'm reading the tag right, the wall thickness will be .135" and the end domes are .152" nominal. New tanks are not unreasonably expensive. I had to replace my 80 gallon after it developed a pin hole leak.

I'd be concerned about moisture getting down in the bore/valve from the broken unloader body. That's an easy fix. Believe part number is 7483X. Available for $130. This of course assumes that nothing else has been damaged.

That compressor will run, not walk, circles around the HF one you picked up when running. If you were in WI, I'd be delighted to give you scrap price for it.
 
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Premium08

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Littleton, NC
The problem with rust in the bottom of a tank is that it can build up in layers and remain intact. This will still give a reasonable reading on your ultrasound, but not be structurally sound. If I'm reading the tag right, the wall thickness will be .135" and the end domes are .152" nominal. New tanks are not unreasonably expensive. I had to replace my 80 gallon after it developed a pin hole leak.

I'd be concerned about moisture getting down in the bore/valve from the broken unloader body. That's an easy fix. Believe part number is 7483X. Available for $130. This of course assumes that nothing else has been damaged.

That compressor will run, not walk, circles around the HF one you picked up when running. If you were in WI, I'd be delighted to give you scrap price for it.

The part only got broken the other day when we moved it out the shop, but it has been outside since so I'm sure moisture has got in. According to the other guy it had a small leak on top, I now wish i had turned it on to see for myself. Currently our need for a shop compressor isn't that great, so even the 60 gal belt drive I got is way overkill.
 

dkmc

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Taking out the 325 and putting in a HF is like going from a Corvette to a Yugo.
Probably worse.
:lol_hitti

I'd rebuild the Quincy, re-install it, then maybe keep the HF for emergency back up, but you'll probably never need it with just a bit of regular maintenance on the Quincy.
 
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Premium08

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Lol, inside of tank with several inches of water in the bottom. It's frozen right now, but I can only imagine how long that water has been in there.

This unit has two unloader valves, most of what I find on Google have one, what's the difference?

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86turbodsl

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ABSOLUTELY fix that 325 Quincy. That's probably the tip top best compressor ever made. I have 2 sitting on my shop floor right now waiting to go on tanks. Best parts availability i've seen on compressors too.

IMO, you can't go wrong unless the thing is so roached it'll be a fortune to fix.
 

MEngineer

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Apr 13, 2015
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345
Location
Everett, Wa
The dual towers are unloaders for the high and low pressure pistons. If you get the valve you will have the option for using the continuous run setting. I have possibly the same pump. mine is missing the tag otherwise I could confirm for sure.

If the price is right (free) then I would do it. If the motor works, then you are up $200 or so right off the bat. I would plan to spend another $250 to replace the broken unloader tower and new gaskets for the head. The gaskets can be had off of ebay. not sure of the best price for a tower, but they can be had off ebay too.

I would then drain the tank and have a look at the damage. you never know, it may be fine. it will be some work for sure. but you will have a $5000 compressor when you are done with way less cash invested.
 
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Premium08

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Its free to me if I wanted it, but dont really have the time or need for it right now. Im pretty sure the motor runs. I will certainly keep the shop guy from scrapping it.
 
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Strouty

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Mar 21, 2010
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Location
Southern Maine
I am also in the fix it camp, but if you have no need for it, I would post it in the classified section for $250, I bet you would get someone to take it off your hands. If you need the space, scrap the tank, save the rest.
 
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Premium08

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Littleton, NC
The dual towers are unloaders for the high and low pressure pistons. If you get the valve you will have the option for using the continuous run setting. I have possibly the same pump. mine is missing the tag otherwise I could confirm for sure.

If the price is right (free) then I would do it. If the motor works, then you are up $200 or so right off the bat. I would plan to spend another $250 to replace the broken unloader tower and new gaskets for the head. The gaskets can be had off of ebay. not sure of the best price for a tower, but they can be had off ebay too.

I would then drain the tank and have a look at the damage. you never know, it may be fine. it will be some work for sure. but you will have a $5000 compressor when you are done with way less cash invested.

If you get a chance, snap a pic of the top of the compressor.
 

6PTsocket

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Mar 12, 2014
Messages
4,593
I’m sure there are restoration guys that would love to take this on, I however, always worry about the horror stories you hear of when compressors that are rusty, from water sitting in them or w/e, end up blowing up and killing someone... so, I stick with my new compressor, that I’ve owned since day one, so I know it’s not had water sitting in it and is safe because I’ve done the maintenance haha.... but im weird... I also don’t like flying because I’m not the one piloting the plane.... and I don’t have the faintest clue how to fly a plane either mind you.... but none the less, I always need to be in control! To the chagrin of all my ex GFs ....
Are you like that guy in the National Car Rental conmercials that takes out his own appendix?

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MEngineer

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I took it apart and replaced the gaskets, etc. hope these are more illuminating for you.
 

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MEngineer

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The best part about these compressors is that ALL of the parts are still available. they can be pricey depending on what you need, but that beats the heck out of "not available"
 
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Premium08

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Littleton, NC
Couple more pictures, oil looks good in crankcase, but something is leaking3e27528f54406a3d137a13ad18ef4b56.jpgef85d9bba8a861d1cc1ec2a991732535.jpg8b6d1d1562801f6280e3f6ccaa667a14.jpg

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Premium08

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Thanks for all the input guys. Definitely got me thinking about getting it running again. Hate to see something like this go to waste. With a ROC of 11 how old is it? I saw another forum or thread where a guy had an 1971 325 ROC 13, so late 60's maybe?
 
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Premium08

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Took a peak inside the crankcase.

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dkmc

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Take it home before the next guy decides he wants it and you drug your feet.
That's a LOT of nice compressor right there!
You'll wanna scoop the poop out of the bottom of that crankcase for starters.....

Some service centers may have used parts as well.
Might get an unloader for less coin that way
 
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EOC_Jason

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Bentonville, AR
That pressure lube model will run forever... The hydraulic unloaders are a nice option, basically the hold the valves open preventing load until the oil pressure builds up.

I have a little 210, revision 1... lol Only 1.5HP motor but it runs so quiet and smooth.

It is most certainly worth fixing up, find a local quincy dealer, and if you can't call corporate and they can probably point you to someone you can deal with over the phone. If you give them the plate info they can tell you when that pump was made.

If you are mechanically inclined enough it's probably worth taking apart the valve assembly and cleaning things up, otherwise just replacing the broken parts, changing the oil, and putting it back into service it would still probably outlast you.

Not sure what to think of that tank... With all that water in it... *shivers*....
 

The Tool Tyrant

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Bonita, Ca. (San Diego)
Thanks for all the input guys. Definitely got me thinking about getting it running again. Hate to see something like this go to waste. With a ROC of 11 how old is it? I saw another forum or thread where a guy had an 1971 325 ROC 13, so late 60's maybe?

ROC 10 was 1963, ROC 12 was 1969...so somewhere between those two.

The oil leak looks like it would be coming from the crankshaft seal.

Great pump, I'd go through it, new rings, hone the cylinders, new valves and it will last you the rest of your days!
 
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MEngineer

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Everett, Wa
I bought my gasket kit with springs, etc from eBay. It was legit. Other parts I bought from the local dealer out of convenience
 

MEngineer

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Oh, and compressor parts store.com that place had the best prices for a replacement high pressure connecting rod.
 
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