Old Quincy information...

[vonhef]

I am currently in the market for an air compressor and was getting ready to pull the trigger on a Quincy 5 hp QT Pro on an 80 gallon tank.... but I found this:

Now I am no expert, but I think this is an old QR25?
I am not familiar with the devices on top of the cylinder, are those unloaders?

I noticed one of the head bolts isn't screwed in completely, so someone may have been into it. It does turn by hand, so it is not locked up, and I am not afraid to disassemble and inspect.

I assume that these can be rebuilt, but is it worth considering this route knowing I would need to purchase a Tank, motor, and controls to make this pump live again?

 

[WhoWhatNow]

That is a Quincy 325 ROC 13 pump which you can still get parts for. You will get about 18CFM from it. I am not sure which at which ROC they went from splash lube to pressure lube but I do not see an oil filter on it. I have a 325 ROC 103 and I love it. Apparently the typical trouble spots for these pumps are the valves. If they are not run regularly they rust. The pump is entirely rebuildable and there is a nice Youtube step by step series on them.
It really depends on the price. If the pump is $100-200 you may make out ahead buying the pump, tank and motor and rebuilding it. At the end you will have a compressor that will last your lifetime.

And yes, those are unloader towers.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Luvs me some Quincies! It's the only brand I get for my building pneumatic control systems...

Tommy

 

[rustyjames]

As long as it spins freely I would try running it before taking it apart, those pumps are bullet proof.

 

[Trey T]

Many ppl consider it to be the best 5HP pump out there. It's a lube pressure pump for continuous run. Be careful, it's a heavy pump!

If you have the time and know-how, piece it all together. However, it can be pricey if you're to buy it all separately.

Pump - $100
Tank - $don't know
Motor - $350 (1700rpm baldor or leeson)
Starter - $100
Switch - $50
Pipe, tube, compression nuts, and tools - $100 <<this adds up really fast, believe it or not.
Belts - $40

That's $700 total w/o the tank and that's not including time spent sourcing those parts.

 

[vonhef]

That is a Quincy 325 ROC 13 pump which you can still get parts for. You will get about 18CFM from it. I am not sure which at which ROC they went from splash lube to pressure lube but I do not see an oil filter on it. I have a 325 ROC 103 and I love it. Apparently the typical trouble spots for these pumps are the valves. If they are not run regularly they rust. The pump is entirely rebuildable and there is a nice Youtube step by step series on them.
It really depends on the price. If the pump is $100-200 you may make out ahead buying the pump, tank and motor and rebuilding it. At the end you will have a compressor that will last your lifetime.

And yes, those are unloader towers.

Thank you for your informative response! I will look up the Youtube video.

 

[vonhef]

Many ppl consider it to be the best 5HP pump out there. It's a lube pressure pump for continuous run. Be careful, it's a heavy pump!

If you have the time and know-how, piece it all together. However, it can be pricey if you're to buy it all separately.

Pump - $100
Tank - $don't know
Motor - $350 (1700rpm baldor or leeson)
Starter - $100
Switch - $50
Pipe, tube, compression nuts, and tools - $100 <<this adds up really fast, believe it or not.
Belts - $40

That's $700 total w/o the tank and that's not including time spent sourcing those parts.

Thank you for your response. The pump is free, but may need to be rebuilt. I will research the tank. Since I was prepared to spend $2000.00 on a new Quincy, maybe this wont be a bad way to go.

 

[vonhef]

A few more questions:

1. It has already been mentioned a 5HP 1700 rpm motor is needed for this, but what RPM does the pump rotate?

2. I will call a Quincy distributor and price a tank, any other suggestions?

 

[Trey T]

That's a very good start - free pump.

1. about 700RPM. The motor pulley should be around 6"-diameter.
2. watch youtube for the quincy 325 rebuild. don't tackle the whole pump if only the valves need to be rebuilt/clean.

 

[koditten]

Make this happen!

These things are so quiet when running. You will not regret making this into a usable compressor.

my tank rusted out on mine and I didn't have time to source a new tank so I was forced to buy a whole new compressor. Everyone the present compressor kicks on I miss my old Quincy.

 

[RumT]

Free?! Take it!

Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk

 

[kams1973]

From a Quincy brochure:
Typical HP 3/5, Min/Max RPM 400/900, CFM 8.3/18.6

Shipping Wt. 295lbs

For less than a grand, you should be able to put it together, and it will still be running long after you've departed.

 

[vonhef]

From a Quincy brochure:

Typical HP 3/5, Min/Max RPM 400/900, CFM 8.3/18.6



Shipping Wt. 295lbs



For less than a grand, you should be able to put it together, and it will still be running long after you've departed.

Thank you for the info! Of course it would be cool to save a few dollars with this project, but I like the fact that this pump is regarded as a quality product. The noise level is important also, so the slower rpm of this pump will be nice.


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[oilslick]

I have one just like it, it starts unloaded and once it gets oil pressure it starts pumping!

 

[vonhef]

I have one just like it, it starts unloaded and once it gets oil pressure it starts pumping!

Thanks for the information! This pump came off of a gasoline engine driven compressor, so it makes sense that it would have duel unloaders.

 

[vonhef]

I watched the you tube videos and they are very helpful. I did find the part manual from the Quincy web page and it looks like this pump was made in the 1977 thru 1983 range.

I will inspect this pump soon.
Does anyone one have a service manual or where to purchase? I would like to know the torque value on any bolts I remove.

 

[WhoWhatNow]

Call Quincy with the pump number and ROC and they will send you one. They can also tell you when the pump left the factory.

 

[mrpizza]

The Quincy guys are very helpful. They helped me a ton when I rebuilt a 310.

 

[vonhef]

Well, I finally took time to tear into this pump and inspect it.... and this is why the pump was never repaired.

This is the number one journal. It is at least .030" undersized. I looked in the parts manual and .010" undersized is the smallest bearing Quincy supports... so the crankshaft is ruined. The high pressure wrist pin bushing is also bad.

I will make a parts list and see what the cost is.... but if the crankshaft is too expensive, I may abandon this project.

 

[Grounded Ken]

The aftermarket world has .020 under bearings for this machine. You can find the manual for this machine and the rebuild guide on the Quincy web site. The book on the Quincy site says 1977 for ROC 13 & 14 so this unit is only 40 years old. Still a pup.

 

[rburke65]

So tell me....what is ROC?

 

[WhoWhatNow]

Record of change. Each time they changed the design they change the ROC to make sure you get the correct parts.

 

[p0lar]

Well, I finally took time to tear into this pump and inspect it.... and this is why the pump was never repaired.

This is the number one journal. It is at least .030" undersized. I looked in the parts manual and .010" undersized is the smallest bearing Quincy supports... so the crankshaft is ruined. The high pressure wrist pin bushing is also bad.

I will make a parts list and see what the cost is.... but if the crankshaft is too expensive, I may abandon this project.

Oddly, I may have a spare crankshaft. It'll need at least .010 bearings, IIRC, but otherwise is good. If you can get .020, even better.

Shoot me a PM. It's heavy, but better in your pump than in my garage!

 

[Vernon29RW]

Anyone know if Quincy has brochures for older model pumps that lists specs like CFM? I was just recently given a refurbished 1989 Model 210 hooked up to a 2 hp Dayton motor and found the original parts manual which is great to have, but it doesn't have any specs on the output of the pump. Only the rpm recommendations. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[b-body-bob]

Vernon you can time the tank filling from empty and use calculators on this page to find out what CFM it is currently putting out, but that won't tell you what it should be putting out.

http://aircompeq.com/formulas.htm

 

[Vernon29RW]

Thanks for that link. So the answer is no? There isn't really a way to find out what size pump I have and what I should expect out of it? Seems odd....everyone always posting old compressors and what they're capable of but no way to reference any of this information???

 

[bazzateer]

With the title of this thread no-one mentions Jack Klugman?

 

[b-body-bob]

Thanks for that link. So the answer is no? There isn't really a way to find out what size pump I have and what I should expect out of it? Seems odd....everyone always posting old compressors and what they're capable of but no way to reference any of this information???

Did you ever call Quincy and ask? It'd be worth a shot and they should be able to tell you based on the model number. From what I've read here they seem to have extensive records back to the beginning.

With the title of this thread no-one mentions Jack Klugman?

Thanks for the first grin of the day.

 

[kams1973]

Anyone know if Quincy has brochures for older model pumps that lists specs like CFM? I was just recently given a refurbished 1989 Model 210 hooked up to a 2 hp Dayton motor and found the original parts manual which is great to have, but it doesn't have any specs on the output of the pump. Only the rpm recommendations. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

Look on pg 5 of the link below.

http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Quincy-QR25-Compressor-Brochure.pdf

 

[Vernon29RW]

Kams, that's exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for your help sir. It is much appreciated.

 

[kams1973]

Kams, that's exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for your help sir. It is much appreciated.

You're welcome! Glad to be of use.

 

[TractorJeff]

Air Tanks/Receivers can be bought through GRAINGER
Also on the crankshaft issue, there is a Spray Welding process where they build the worn area back up, then grind it down to original size. I use to drive by a place in Waukesha WI that did it.
Don't know if they are still there as it may have been a number of years ago???