Old School Sliding Barn Door

[duwem]

We are going to put a 36" one on our pantry, I will want to put a couple on interior rooms in my shop (8-10' wide).

I'm sure some of you guys are using them in your garages and houses, how about some pictures and details.

Seems the big box stores sell kits now with tracks and rollers. Would be fun to find some original parts, but might turn into a big project and cost since they are all the rave now on pintress and those evil websites

 

[lakeroadster]

I was going to use the barn door concept inside my barn on a dividing wall. In the ended we used a recycled overhead garage door instead.

By the time you buy the brackets and the wood they get pricey... and the loss of wall space that is inherent when the door is slid open, combined with the poor insulation and sealing issues the end result made it, at least in my case, a less than desirable choice.

Barn Door takes up half the wall, as seen here:


Actual wall with overhead door:

 

[cybrdyke]

watching this with the same interest. My 36" door is outside, but protected. I have the wood. I saw hardware and channels at Tractor Supply, but it seemed kinda pricey to me, although it was galvanized. Certainly not good looking enough for your interior use. Looking for other options.
CD

 

[Ray-CA]

I bought a hardware kit from Tractor Supply and a solid core door from the Habitat for Humanity-ReStore outlet.

Maybe $150 total (not including the paint for the door.)

Ray

 

[Homebody]

By the time you buy the brackets and the wood they get pricey... and the loss of wall space that is inherent when the door is slid open, ]

Agreed. The loss of wall space makes em impractical to me so I just made a hinged one to use for our in wall pantry.
Same looks for a third of the price. Hell, I don't even like the big sliding doors on my two real barns. pain in the ***!

[/URL]

 

[MushCreek]

We used one on our powder room door. No room to swing a door, and I thought it was more interesting than a pocket door. The door is circa 1915, as are all of the doors in the house, and the rollers are dated 1906. They roll on iron pipe. I found them on ebay. They had iron rollers, and sounded like a freight train even with new bearings, so I made rollers out of Delrin. I found the handle on ebay, too, and thought it was interesting.





I need to get a current picture with finished floors, walls, and trim. It's hard to get a good pic, as it's in our small foyer.

 

[dirt_dobber]

verrrryyyyyyyy nice handle.

 

[randydupree]

you can get the tracks and rollers cheaper from Farmtec.

 

[4 FN 27]

I couldn't find a Hardware set I liked for a price I was willing to pay. So I made mine. Made 2 complete sets, installed 1 set and put the other set in the old shed to get a nice patina of rust on them. Once they look right I'll swap them out.

 

[KDXSR5]

I couldn't find a Hardware set I liked for a price I was willing to pay. So I made mine. Made 2 complete sets, installed 1 set and put the other set in the old shed to get a nice patina of rust on them. Once they look right I'll swap them out.

I am fully digging the rustic look you have going on here. Very nice

 

[duwem]

Nice examples!
What keeps the door from rubbing on the wall your sliding it along, is there any sort of guide on the bottom?

 

[Richard Cranium]

My Brother in law put one in his shop to divide his work area from his storage area for his cars and trucks. He built the door him self.

 

[larry_g]

View media item 66125
Sliding doors on my sons office. Daughter-in-law found the rail and roller kits on the internet for <$100. They have ball bearings and floor guides. They have no height adjustments so you have to hang them at correct height.


lg
no neat sig line

 

[MushCreek]

Nice examples!
What keeps the door from rubbing on the wall your sliding it along, is there any sort of guide on the bottom?

On real barn doors, they use rollers. I didn't want anything to show, so I milled a slot in the bottom of the door, and screwed a short piece of aluminum angle iron to the floor as a guide. I also have a rubber stop at each end- highly recommended!

 

[L5wolvesf]

When we bought our house the garage didn’t have a car door just a large wood blanking “plate”/wall (2x4s and plywood). It was in a finished space, in the concrete block wall, to eventually put a garage door in. It also had a human door in the middle. With a friend we pulled it out in one piece and used some weights as wheels and leftover black pipe as axles. Voila, a rolling barn door – not pretty but functional. But it does have a couple problems. It is about 10 ft across so it takes up 10 ft of usable wall space, and there is a light switch which ends up inaccessible when the door is open. Once I have the funds I’ll be getting a roll up door.

 

[larry_g]

I didn't want anything to show, so I milled a slot in the bottom of the door, and screwed a short piece of aluminum angle iron to the floor as a guide.!

The one I posted above have a Tee shaped piece that goes on the floor and a slot in the bottom of the doors. Same function as MushCreek above.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[dreamingmuscle]

Hung a couple of using Lowes hardware. Lessons learned

1. Doors need to be 2 to 3 inches taller then opening.

2. Doors need to be 6 inches wider than opening especially if privacy is a concern. Stand off for the doors are about 2 inches giving one a good peek into the next room.

3. Level floors are a great help.

Glen

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Nice stuff guys! No counter weights? Many of the real barn & farm doors I've seen had a rope & pulley counter weight that shut the door once opened. I realize you probably don't want that for indoor use or equipment shed doors...

Tommy