To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Old tool box. (Not a roll away)

T56 Impala

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2007
Messages
3,650
Location
Roswell GA
Okay, I hope this is the right section for this. I am about to start restoring my dad's old cantilevered Air Force tool box. (I'll post up some pictures next week.)

I have a few questions before I get started. I hope some of you that restore old boxes and equipment can help me out with these.

1. What should I use to strip the layers of old paint? Before someone says it.... If it were the original paint with a nice patina, I would leave it alone. However, dd painted it at some point and I as a child painted it a few times just goofing around with the rattle cans.

2. Once stripped, should I prime it immediately or put something else on it while I try to massage out the dents and bends?

3. This box is a cantilevered box with two triers on each side. Should I drill out the rivets and completely disassemble it or leave them in place? This box is not it very good shape at all, just so you know.

4. IF I do drill out the rivets, where do I fine the proper tool/tools and supplies to re-rivet it? No, I have never done any kind of riveting.

5. What to do about the hinges. Should I try to break them apart?

6. Replacement parts. Any idea where I might find clasps, handles and that sort of thing?

I haven't decided on how to paint it yet. I could go with the good ole rattle can, have it professionally painted or even have it powder coated. What is your OPINION? I kinda like the wrinkle finish.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

wrenchr

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 29, 2007
Messages
11,603
Location
Michigan
Okay, I hope this is the right section for this. I am about to start restoring my dad's old cantilevered Air Force tool box. (I'll post up some pictures next week.)

I have a few questions before I get started. I hope some of you that restore old boxes and equipment can help me out with these.

1. What should I use to strip the layers of old paint? Before someone says it.... If it were the original paint with a nice patina, I would leave it alone. However, dd painted it at some point and I as a child painted it a few times just goofing around with the rattle cans.

2. Once stripped, should I prime it immediately or put something else on it while I try to massage out the dents and bends?

3. This box is a cantilevered box with two triers on each side. Should I drill out the rivets and completely disassemble it or leave them in place? This box is not it very good shape at all, just so you know.

4. IF I do drill out the rivets, where do I fine the proper tool/tools and supplies to re-rivet it? No, I have never done any kind of riveting.

5. What to do about the hinges. Should I try to break them apart?

6. Replacement parts. Any idea where I might find clasps, handles and that sort of thing?

I haven't decided on how to paint it yet. I could go with the good ole rattle can, have it professionally painted or even have it powder coated. What is your OPINION? I kinda like the wrinkle finish.

The box I picked up yesterday I just cleaned it up with break cleaner then I waxed it!! I'll post a few pics.
 

Lookin4'67Galaxieconv

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 2, 2008
Messages
16,635
Location
Atlanta, GA
I haven't decided on how to paint it yet. I could go with the good ole rattle can, have it professionally painted or even have it powder coated. What is your OPINION? I kinda like the wrinkle finish.

Since it's not in good shape to begin with...your procedure for fixing it up can be a lot more wide open. As far as drilling out rivets, that seems like a PITA to me. I would put it in primer after you have it stripped. Have you looked into having it chemically stripped? That may save you a lot of effort on a box like this.
 
OP
T

T56 Impala

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2007
Messages
3,650
Location
Roswell GA
So, if I don't drill the rivets, do I just tape up the parts I don't want painted? The reason I ask is, I know one shelf support is in need of a rivet and they are small. It would take days to mask off I think. (I'm not good at this kind of stuff.)

As for stripping it, well, it will be done at home. I used some stuff once called "Strip It!" to take clear powder coating off of a set of wheels. The stuff is great! Spray it on, leave it for about 30 minutes and hose it off. This stuff has never failed me. I am worried about getting it all off though. What about the rust the rinse leaves behind? I am in the humid south and EVERYTHING rusts if its not protected.

I guess in the long run, I'll just have to dive in and see what works. I might be asking you guys how to fix my mistakes though!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Merkava_4

Banned
Joined
Dec 26, 2007
Messages
14,518
Location
Clovis, CA.
What is your OPINION? I kinda like the wrinkle finish.

Winkle paint has to be sprayed on hot steel (think bare steel out in the sunshine on a +100F day) and one heavy coat over bare metal - no primer. Just take my word for it on this because I've learned the hard way.


To strip the old paint off, you need to thoroughly degrease the surface before applying paint stripper. The best way is to wipe it down with lacquer thinner first and then baste the box with Jasco paint stripper.

Rinse the paint stripper off thoroughly afterwards with hot water and a brush.
 

J.A.F.E.

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 25, 2008
Messages
1,745
Location
Formerly Area 49 now Area 52
As for masking the parts you don't want painted try vasoline. A medium coat over the not to be painted part will protect from paint and you can get a much cleaner edge of small parts like rivets.

Just make sure the paint is very dry before you clean off the vasoline. I have used the technique with great success on many projects. One example the old Mercedes hub caps with the emblem embossed in the center where the emblem was painted body color.

~Steve
 

Chris Adams

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Messages
2,117
Without seeing how many rivets, I wonder if it's worth not drilling them. I drill rivets with step bits all the time. On replacing rivets a cheap pop rivet gun and some steel, not aluminum rivets shouldn't be much cost or work to replace. Unless there are hundreds of them, or they are very hard to get at.
Steel rivets are available at Home Depot or Lowes (Lowes charges more for the rivets, same brand) and even a HF rivet gun is good for that kind of work.
With the rivets out the trays should be easier to clean/paint. Taping can take more work than riveting, at least to me.
 

MachineTech

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Messages
229
Location
Wisconsin/Illinois border
I have restored several old boxes and almost always make the effort to completely disassemble them. To replace the rivets I would use the old fashioned kind with a rivet setter and anvil. This way you can be sure not to do them too tightly. I have never used paint strippers because I hate the mess. I always lightly sand blast it and blow it off clean. Paint it right away! You would be amazed at how quickly the cancer (rust) can set in. Prime it with a quality primer within an hour. The course texture caused by blasting it makes the primer adhere well also. As with anything, do more light coats rather than a few thick ones. Spray paints have come a long way and if you get a good quality one you should do very well. It should look like new. Good luck!:thumbup:
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom