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Old traffic light Restoration project

ddx77

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Nov 26, 2013
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51
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Fort Lauderdale
So I know I don’t post much on here but do enjoy the site.

I picked up an old traffic signal this weekend wanted too if there was any insight from anyone that’s done one before.

I plan on repainting it of course but I also want to change all the light to 12v LED. I’ve done it before on smaller scale stuff but nothing this size.

Thanks in advance.

Here’s the piece.

IMG_7349.jpg

IMG_7350.jpg


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coljar

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Sep 26, 2010
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Belpre, Ohio
20180310_201846.jpg
[/url][/IMG]

I need to put it up. I didn't have to do too much to it, but I need to rewire and figure out whether I'm going to put the sequencer inside or down where I can get to it. I have a Walk/Don't Walk signal that will run off the sequencer, too.
 

chaosracing

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Nov 14, 2015
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585
Location
Kutztown, Pa
Why change it to 12v? You can just get regular LED bulbs and put them in there in place of the existing bulbs and then can run on regular 120v.

Very cool project though.....I would like to find one eventually. Wish I had thought of it when my mom was alive. She worked for a traffic signal company. Could have gotten me whatever I wanted. We got a few boxes of light bulbs from them when they would go around and change bulbs once a year for some places. No matter if it was bad, recently replaced or a year old, it got changed out. The crews would bring them all back and they would let anyone take what they wanted. We used them in our barn. Think we only changed them 2 times in the 25 years since using them (well, except for a few that got broken)
 

toolferone

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Feb 27, 2016
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93
Location
Raleigh, NC
I picked up an old traffic signal this weekend wanted too if there was any insight from anyone that’s done one before.

I plan on repainting it of course but I also want to change all the light to 12v LED. I’ve done it before on smaller scale stuff but nothing this size.

Thanks in advance.

Fun project. I have one I just cleaned and waxed, but the stock bulbs were WAY too bright. I ended up putting 15w bulbs in them (before led took off). I rewired mine so all the lights are on at once. It is a great conversation piece hanging in my workshop.
 

Mr. Tool

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Jan 26, 2013
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1,866
Awesome!

What a restore-project.

I'll be following this thread for sure.
 

427HISS

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Aug 15, 2005
Messages
746
I'd love to restore one for my garage, the cost is stopping me, unless I can find one for a great deal. Another one would be a smaller drag race light.

Great project !
 
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D

ddx77

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Nov 26, 2013
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Location
Fort Lauderdale
Thank you guys for the feedback!

Some great points given and received and truly appreciated. I will keep you posted!

It may not be a high tech project but I am sure I will have further questions as far as wiring goes. Paint part is what I enjoy the most.
 
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D

ddx77

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Fort Lauderdale
This is a beautiful piece!

20180310_201846.jpg
[/url][/IMG]

I need to put it up. I didn't have to do too much to it, but I need to rewire and figure out whether I'm going to put the sequencer inside or down where I can get to it. I have a Walk/Don't Walk signal that will run off the sequencer, too.
 

cdestuck

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Nov 13, 2013
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Altoona, Pa
I can see going to LEDs but if that were mine, I'd leave the paint as is. Shows time and usage. Anyone can get new and shiney
 
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D

ddx77

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Fort Lauderdale
I can see going to LEDs but if that were mine, I'd leave the paint as is. Shows time and usage. Anyone can get new and shiney


That’s a good point too. I’ll clean it up first and see how it looks before I play with its originality.


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Matt M PA

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Oct 21, 2008
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3,174
Location
SE PA
They're a fun project! I did my WW2 era Eaglelux a few years ago back to it's original dark green. Added a sequencer and it runs in the garage any time the overhead lights are on.

I've been anxious to do another...have yet to come across something I liked well enough to buy and restore.

Cool info here....http://www.signalfan.com
 

bgarrett

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Feb 11, 2006
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4,393
I'm working on one now. It really is old, round visors and cloth wiring inside. The sequencer is original. Picture later
 

Vegaman_Dan

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Pacific, WA
I have 120v low wattage LED bulbs in mine and a $20 sequencer. Mine was pole based, but I used a cheap bench grinder stand mounted on casters to let mine sit tucked away in the corner of a room for ambience. A $20 netplug and...

"Alexa, turn on traffic light."
 
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Jim_No_Garage

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Millington NJ
I have 120v low wattage LED bulbs in mine and a $20 sequencer. Mine was pole based, but I used a cheap bench grinder stand mounted on casters to let mine sit tucked away in the corner of a room for ambience. A $20 netplug and...

"Alexa, turn on traffic light."

Alexa - RED Light!

Alexa - GREEN Light!
 

firebirdparts

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Kingsport, TN
All you need is a sequencer and power. I always felt like the sequencers are overpriced, and I could never make myself buy one for my signal. I am too dumb to build one. $25 on ebay is the cheapest I can find, and I think at that price it's worth it.
 

Vegaman_Dan

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All you need is a sequencer and power. I always felt like the sequencers are overpriced, and I could never make myself buy one for my signal. I am too dumb to build one. $25 on ebay is the cheapest I can find, and I think at that price it's worth it.

$25 Ebay is the easiest solution. Today I'd be tempted to use an Arduino and a relay shield to do it. That could be done for $10-15. The price difference isn't worth my time to build it, so the premade sequencer would be my choice.
 

AMD[H]unter

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May 2, 2012
Messages
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I love seeing traffic lights get restored. Mine isn't "restored" but just cleaned up and rewired with new wire and all LED bulbs.

attachment.php


Forgive the picture being flipped; no time to fix.
 

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aka Larry

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$25 Ebay is the easiest solution. Today I'd be tempted to use an Arduino and a relay shield to do it. That could be done for $10-15. The price difference isn't worth my time to build it, so the premade sequencer would be my choice.

Got a link to a sequencer like you used?
 

Vegaman_Dan

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Pacific, WA
The original I bought on Ebay isn't there anymore. It was sold by Trafficlights.com, and you can go direct with them:

https://www.trafficlights.com/controllers/t3-3-light-controller/

One thing I liked about their product line is that they offer a 3 light controller that also has a remote control. I thought it might be handy at a car show where I'm doing vehicle check in. My traffic light is already portable, so could be put at the head of the line.

YOU.
STOP.

Only once all is good with paperwork and such would I release the car to stage and park. I'm not part of that show anymore so I haven't done it, but thought it would be pretty darn neat.
 

colt zantop

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michigan
Here's my 7 year old sons. He also has a real street sign to match. He absolutely loves anything transportation related. He's got multiple signs in his bedroom haha.
 

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James E

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Raleigh, NC
I restored several a few years ago. I got my sequencer from Trafficlights.com. Not the cheapest, but they all worked. The sequencer is small enough to mount internally, and I drilled a hole in the bottom of the light and installed a pull-chain switch to turn it on and off.

To change the sequence, I have to open the light and change the switch. Mine is not the most current version and I have the option of flashing red, flashing green, a few different sequences and there is a knob to lengthen or shorten the timing. I restored 3-head, 4-head and 5-head lights. The sequencers work well.

I ran an extension cord out of the existing power conduit at the top of the lights. I just got a suitable extension cord, cut the female end off and wired it directly to the switch.

As for switching to LEDs, I am curious how your square heads are illuminated. Are there white incandescent bulbs behind colored lenses or are your colored lenses part of the bulb? The former would be easy, the latter would be more difficult as I have not seen LED bulbs of that shape (although, to be fair, I was not looking for them).

Switching to LEDs is the way to go. The old incandescents not only burn a ton of electricity, but they put out a ton of heat. My modern LEDs draw about 7 amps per bulb and put out zero measurable heat, so I can run them for hours/days and not worry about the power bill.
 

redmondjp

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Nov 25, 2014
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Location
Redmond, WA
I restored several a few years ago. I got my sequencer from Trafficlights.com. Not the cheapest, but they all worked. The sequencer is small enough to mount internally, and I drilled a hole in the bottom of the light and installed a pull-chain switch to turn it on and off.

To change the sequence, I have to open the light and change the switch. Mine is not the most current version and I have the option of flashing red, flashing green, a few different sequences and there is a knob to lengthen or shorten the timing. I restored 3-head, 4-head and 5-head lights. The sequencers work well.

I ran an extension cord out of the existing power conduit at the top of the lights. I just got a suitable extension cord, cut the female end off and wired it directly to the switch.

As for switching to LEDs, I am curious how your square heads are illuminated. Are there white incandescent bulbs behind colored lenses or are your colored lenses part of the bulb? The former would be easy, the latter would be more difficult as I have not seen LED bulbs of that shape (although, to be fair, I was not looking for them).

Switching to LEDs is the way to go. The old incandescents not only burn a ton of electricity, but they put out a ton of heat. My modern LEDs draw about 7 amps per bulb and put out zero measurable heat, so I can run them for hours/days and not worry about the power bill.

Thanks for the info - I think you meant to say 7 watts per bulb for the LED versions.
 
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