Old used compressor - what to do before startup

[vrinner]

I took a chance on this compressor that my gardener had for $50 bucks. He said it ran when he got it from one of his customers but while moving it, it fell over and oil leaked everywhere. It's been sitting for about a year.

Looking for advice on what to do before first startup or probably better question would be better to just do a complete overhaul on the unit? Never having worked on a air compressor before, what are some basic I need to look for and do?


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[sberry]

Fill with oil, check the belts, start it.

 

[38Chevy454]

Drain the tank, observe bottom for any holes. Drain what oil is left in the compressor. Fill with new oil, rotate by hand a few revolutions to ensure it has no issues. Check belts, plug in and fire up.

Sent from dumb operator on a smart phone

 

[jb books]

I would run it for a while with the air tank drain valve open too.

 

[1cargarage]

Advice above is sound. Like others have stated, i would drain all the old oil, drain the air tank, fill with correct oil and turn the wheel/ belt a few revs then let 'er rip

 

[TonyJ]

That looks like a Quincy 208 and if it is then here is the oil specs


Tony

 

[The Cobbler]

I agree with the above, but before spending $$$ on anything, I would try turning it by hand to be sure it turns with no issues .

 

[vrinner]

All great advice and tips.

Thanks!

 

[vrinner]

I was able to turn it over easy. Decided to take it apart and clean all up.

Oil was very clean. Looks like it is a Quincy 208. Bottom looks good too. Tank appears to be rated at 130 psi. Also has these spring shocks.

 

[timgunn1962]

The pressure rating looks like 200 PSI Working Pressure to me.

I think the .130 is the thickness of the steel used for the tube and for the pre-formed ends of the receiver.

 

[TonyJ]

Yes it’s 200psi tank and made in 1970. It’s 41 years newer than my tank lol. You can call Quincy and give them the model number and roc number and they can give you the psi ratings for the pump so you can adjust it properly in case someone in the past has messed with its setting. Also if you give them a email address they will send you what ever manuals that they may still have on file for free. Quincy tech support is very nice and handy


Tony

 

[vrinner]

So the motor is 230v. The motor is 230v 14 amp.

Figured I'd run a 230v 20 amp wire. Should i hard wire or use a plug? I doubt ill ever move it.

 

[HotWire]

Use the plug. Always have a way to isolate the energy sources.


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[vrinner]

Use the plug. Always have a way to isolate the energy sources.


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The plug appears to be a 250v 50 amp. Im thinking its best to swap it out

 

[vrinner]

Getting it cleaned up and back together.

So it looks like it requires 30w oil. Can I just use 30w motor oil or should it be more specific for compressors? At HD, none of the "compressor" oils have a weight rating.

 

[bastage]

The plug is fine. You can use a plug with more amperage without a problem.. You just dont want to use one thats not enough. I have the same 50a plugs for both of my 220v 30a outlets in my garage just because thats the most common used in a garage. If you had a 220v welder that only used 10a it would most likely be the same, just as if you had another 220v welder that uses 40a.

For the oil I think any non detergent compressor oil is fine. You can always go with overkill though & buy the Quincy stuff

 

[vrinner]

I'll verify the HD stuff is Non-Detergent. Honestly it will get just basic home/workshop use so nothing to serious. From what I've read compressor motors generally are pretty low maintenance.

Another question...because I'm running 3/4" copper lines all the way to the final tool (most of my reels are 3/8"), I should run a 3/4" pressure regulator at the tank. It's currently 1/4". I'm going to replace the bung in the tank with a 3/4" pipe, put a 3/4" valve then go to a 3/4" flex pipe to the 3/4" copper pipe on the wall.

 

[TonyJ]

I'll verify the HD stuff is Non-Detergent. Honestly it will get just basic home/workshop use so nothing to serious. From what I've read compressor motors generally are pretty low maintenance.

Another question...because I'm running 3/4" copper lines all the way to the final tool (most of my reels are 3/8"), I should run a 3/4" pressure regulator at the tank. It's currently 1/4". I'm going to replace the bung in the tank with a 3/4" pipe, put a 3/4" valve then go to a 3/4" flex pipe to the 3/4" copper pipe on the wall.

For the basic home / workshop use 3/4 line is way overkill. 1/2” would do you just fine and 1/2” part’s and regulators are cheaper and more easily found at big box stores vs having to order 3/4”


Tony

 

[TonyJ]

Tony

 

[TonyJ]

Tony

Just some info for you on oil weights and also when to change oil and also on how to adjust the oil pressure


Tony

 

[bastage]

I'll verify the HD stuff is Non-Detergent. Honestly it will get just basic home/workshop use so nothing to serious. From what I've read compressor motors generally are pretty low maintenance.

Another question...because I'm running 3/4" copper lines all the way to the final tool (most of my reels are 3/8"), I should run a 3/4" pressure regulator at the tank. It's currently 1/4". I'm going to replace the bung in the tank with a 3/4" pipe, put a 3/4" valve then go to a 3/4" flex pipe to the 3/4" copper pipe on the wall.

What TonyJ Said is spot on.

Your looking at probably 2-3x the cost for no actual increase in performance. Unless you already have the 3/4 copper I wouldn't go with it for the runs either. If you do already have it so your not spending on it then I would go with the 3/4 Filter/Regulator at the tank just because I am OCD & it would annoy me to start with the bottleneck even if it makes no real difference.

 

[vrinner]

Just some info for you on oil weights and also when to change oil and also on how to adjust the oil pressure


Tony

Thats some great info! Thats what I love about this forum!

 

[vrinner]

What TonyJ Said is spot on.

Your looking at probably 2-3x the cost for no actual increase in performance. Unless you already have the 3/4 copper I wouldn't go with it for the runs either. If you do already have it so your not spending on it then I would go with the 3/4 Filter/Regulator at the tank just because I am OCD & it would annoy me to start with the bottleneck even if it makes no real difference.

I actually already have all the 3/4" pipe. Got 300+ feet of it from my work for free...better in my garage than in the scrap pile!