Older Tank Drainage question

[terex]

Glad I found this thread. I have a Montgomery Ward 2hp Compressor which I inherited from the family. It's been used on/off regularly for
the last 20+ years. The oil has been changed from time to time, but that's it, no other maintenance has been done.

 

[Sumboodie]

How could it explode with no pressure?

I'd shitcan the tank if it's really never been drained and is 30+ years old.

 

[nafterclifen]

I'd shitcan the tank if it's really never been drained and is 30+ years old.

Unfortunately, I'm going to have to agree with this. I bought a used compressor and I didn't drain it until I got home. Big mistake on my part. It was full of water. I drained it, dried it real well and sprayed some Fluid Film inside the tank to reduce further corrosion. But the damage was already done. The inside of tank was heavily corroded and about 1 year later, it developed a pin hole leak. Anytime I would drain it, small rusty flakes would come out. I bought a new tank and plan to swap over the mounting plate (with pump and motor) onto it. And then plumb them back together.

 

[FMB4]

When I move it around you can hear lots
of water sloshing inside the tank, I would guess it's at least 1/2 full. I noticed the x2 drain square plugs...

Do you know what tank size in in gallons? I don't think that the typical 20 gal tank could be "1/2" full, a much smaller tank then yes, but 20 or more gals. That said, I'd simply bleed any air pressure off the tank and then open both drain plugs with drip pans under both. Once drained, check to water in the pans for rust flakes. If bad, then follow the previous GJ members advice. If not real bad, then just run it to make sure it operates and go from there.

Btw, welcome the the GJ forums Terex.

 

[terex]

Thanks for the welcome!

 

[Kaizen]

Thanks for the welcome!

Appreciate the insight on this board. I took a leap of faith yesterday and attempted to loosen the wing nut at the bottom of the tank which was frozen solid. Then, used a wrench to loosen the nut which goes inside the tank, with this being brass and not having been opened in probably 30+ years, it stripped immediately. After wrenching with the vice grips was able to get it out. Thankfully, I am still alive after
the gooey discharge (a lot!)

Purchased a new threaded plug / wing nut and then put about 15 lbs of pressure in the tank. Opened it back up.
That's where I'm at currently. No H20 left in the tank, but I am assuming there is plenty of "goo / sludge" still in the tank.

Need to put teflon tape on the threaded nut, wondering if I should cycle it a few more times with about 10-15lbs of pressure and
try to clean more out ?

You don't understand. Everyone is saying get rid of the tank not because of the water in it but the rust that has eaten away at who knows how much of the tank. If you are set on keeping it take a hammer and wail on it. Esp under that water line. If any part gives in get rid of it before you have it literally blow up. you can use the compressor and get a new tank.

 

[FredWanaker]

the wing nut thing is probably a drain ****. Some work backwards, meaning that they screw in to let water out, and screw out to seal.

 

[nadogail]

The tank should be replaced or as a minimum be inspected by a professional.

 

[quickfarms]

I would pull the big square plugs on the end so you can look inside and see what’s going on.

if you see light surface rust it is probably not an issue

if you see scale rust and flaking metal scrap it

sometimes those plugs are a pain to get out and need to be drilled out

 

[Sumboodie]

I would pull the big square plugs on the end so you can look inside and see what’s going on.

if you see light surface rust it is probably not an issue

if you see scale rust and flaking metal scrap it

sometimes those plugs are a pain to get out and need to be drilled out

That's an odd way of removing one of those. I'd blow it out with the torch.l if it's stuck.