Olson bandsaw - Info?

[Glidertow]

I have a new restoration project-a Olson Bandsaw 9x12. Says to be out of Bruile, Neb and has no model info but in seeing one on ebay it is a Model 9x12. Does anyone have info on this saw, I would love to find an owners manual. Need blade size. Need general comments on experience with type.

 

[gus1962]

Olson 9X12 band saw 9" blade 1/2 HP Serial 6619 . You should try calling Olson.

 

[Glidertow]

Thanks Gus, LOL but a 9" blade would not wrap around my hand much less a 400lbs bandsaw. The company went out of business in around 1980 and they not longer answer the phone.

 

[zkling]

I assume you are talking about one of their horizontal cutoff bandsaws. They are OK machines, nothing to get real excited about, rather flimsy IMHO. Work capacity is 9"x12", probably where those dimensions are coming from.

Here is a link to where someone rebuilt one.

http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/showthread.php?664-Olson-Bandsaw-refurbished&

If you contacted the manufacture and you say they are defunct?

If I remember correctly they take like a 116" or 118" blade, like 1/2", 5/8" or 3/4" wide. I never owned one, someone I know did. I didn't like using it.

If you need to find the blade length, just put the tension adj. on the low end and wrap a rope around both wheels, remembering to go through the guides. Measure length and you should have a rough estimate.

Hope that helps a little.

 

[gus1962]

Oh I see. I didn't know that. To calculate the band saw blade length , check this link http://vintagemachinery.org/math/beltlength.aspx . Or try to google for more different ways of getting the blade length. Don't worry with the a blade supplier, there are companies now that offers custom to weld services and you can make it through online.

 

[Outlawmws]

Get the saw in a upright position and adjust the wheel as far out as possible.

Use a narrow (1/4"?) tape and measure.

Adjust to the bottom on the adjustment, and repeat the measurement.

Pick a std length blade that is under the max, and order. You may allow a small amount for stretch, but that will be minimal. This way if you snap a good blade, you can get it re welded and it's still useful even if a tiny amount shorter.

 

[Glidertow]

Thanks for the replies. I called the local Chamber of Commerce and behold I got the number of the son of the designer and he has been very helpful. 117" x 5/8" and has agreed to send a blade and some other parts and is going to try and find some old written material. Power to the Internet just never know what one will find. I know it is an old saw but it will be fun to get it going again and it was made in the USA using all stock steel and standard rollers. A real marvel of simple indestructible parts, no castings or cheap tin.

 

[Glidertow]

Thanks for the replies. I called the local Chamber of Commerce and behold I got the number of the son of the designer and he has been very helpful. 117" x 5/8" and has agreed to send a blade and some other parts and is going to try and find some old written material. Power to the Internet just never know what one will find. I know it is an old saw but it will be fun to get it going again and it was made in the USA using all stock steel and standard rollers. A real marvel of simple indestructible parts, no castings or cheap tin.

 

[IMCA38]

I have one of these saws, they are beasts!
Got mine several years ago at an auction, it's been used a lot, but still works great. I got 2 new blades from them and they work really well. I replaced the cord, plug and re-wired into the motor, and also replaced the black pipe and bar clamp jaw on the clamp mechanism. That all works great now. Mine has a 1/2hp motor and the son told me that it should have had a 3/4 hp. I don't really notice it being short on power though. Maybe if I was slicing a bridge beam or something..... Nonetheless, I did buy a 1hp motor at an auction last year with the intent of upgrading the saw, just haven't done it yet.
The one thing I hate is that it is a bi*** to even move it a short distance. I'd say 400# might be an accurate guess of what that thing weighs. Its pretty much a permanent fixture in it's present location right now. I suppose welding on some kind of a long handle would help, I believe that's what the guy on the welding board did.
I've seen a few others sell both at local auctions and online. Decent ones still bring a heck of a price.

 

[danielhp89]

We bought a brand new jet bandsaw that is now for sale as blades lasted 4-5 cuts and it was replaced by an old Olson we found at an auction,it has been great, over a year of use on a single blade. In high school my senior year we got a new welding teacher and he moved out the chop saw replacing it with his personal Olson bandsaw that he used in the 70's when he was in high school and later bought at a sale. After that year I have always had trouble going back to a chop saw as a bandsaw is so much quieter, more precise and cleaner.

 

[IMCA38]

Likewise, my first exposure to an Olson saw was when our high school shop purchased one new in '79 or '80. Later on, I ended up with one of the HF specials and battled that thing constantly. I got the chance to bid on mine and went for it.
Sold the HF and haven't looked back!

 

[Glidertow]

Can't figure out this vise. Could you give a quick operation guide. The screw that is next to the back vise plate may be broken it does not attach or does it? The main screw that goes through the spring is it supposed to swivel in the back plate of the jaws?

 

[Glidertow]

Also, the shields on the back of the saw are both missing, any pictures or insight as to how the originals were done would be very helpful. The ones covering the wheels.

 

[Outlawmws]

Pics with your questions are always helpful.

But most Cutoff band saws have some way to let the dynamic jaw swivel to account for an irregularly shaped piece of material.

 

[Glidertow]

Pictures just like the one you referred me to.

 

[Glidertow]

Whoops the reply above yours.

 

[IMCA38]

Can't figure out this vise. Could you give a quick operation guide. The screw that is next to the back vise plate may be broken it does not attach or does it? The main screw that goes through the spring is it supposed to swivel in the back plate of the jaws?

Before you start, retract the screw back so it is almost entirely inside the black pipe. Put your work piece into the vise and push the black pipe assembly forward until the spring at the vise plate compresses. Then turn the screw so it comes out of the pipe and contacts the back of the vise plate. This is how you put the hurt to it.

Hope this helps. If not, I'll try and take some pics later.

 

[IMCA38]

Also, the shields on the back of the saw are both missing, any pictures or insight as to how the originals were done would be very helpful. The ones covering the wheels.

Mine are missing also. I think most people found them to be a pain.
I'd say cut a half circle out of sheet metal, and if I remember right, there are three holes in the main frame at like 12, 3 and 9 o clock. You could attach "L" brackets to your sheet metal either by welding, or bolting them to the sheet and then bolt them into main frame.

 

[toolmanmark]

I have a Olson 9x12. Bought new in the mid 70's. Have manual that came with it. Saw is complete.
I have not figured out how to post pictures to this site.

 

[gus1962]

I have a Olson 9x12. Bought new in the mid 70's. Have manual that came with it. Saw is complete.
I have not figured out how to post pictures to this site.

To post pictures, you GO ADVANCED and you may manage attachments . Then you can upload files. See screenshots attached.

 

[Glidertow]

Toolman, you tha man. Really wish I could get a copy of the manual. Send to DC, Post Office Box 1594, Jonesboro, AR 72403..many thanks, I'll reimburse the cost.