One For The Tool/Box Polishers!

[Moose-LandTran]

Would any of you guys (you know who you are..) do this to your boxes?

And now my box is all bolted together.
-Moosey.

 

[mjozefow]

Would any of you guys (you know who you are..) do this to your boxes?

And now my box is all bolted together.
-Moosey.

Yes, I would bolt them together in a professional manner as demonstrated. It's not like you didn't put some forethought into it.

It bugs me when guys half-*** it.

 

[arkangel06]

depending on the make of the box, yes.....

 

[Moose-LandTran]

I spent about 5 hours to drill 16 holes in my box, it wasn't easy to get the large washers and bolts in trough the small slide holes inside the box. it was even harder when i put the side handle on the side box. The first two holes weren't too bad , but the rear two were a royal pain in the ***, both for getting the washers/nuts in place and then holding the nut steady while tightening the bolt on the outside.

M8 nuts/bolts/washers, Metric grade 8.8. :thumbup

 

[Moose-LandTran]

depending on the make of the box, yes.....

It's a Snap-on KRA.

 

[rsanter]

yes
I have done that before

bob

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Merk is currently having a small heart attack..

 

[nissan_crawler]

As soon as I put my new box together, I drilled two holes in it to mount the old chevy emblem. I like it clean and waxed, but I'm not afraid to drill some holes in it (take that however you want, it still applies).

 

[wreckercologist]

Good job, Moose!

I bet I've drilled 50 holes in my 1001!

 

[caper]

The apprentice at work nearly **** when he saw me start drilling holes in my box so I could mount my side cabinet and hook for my harness.I had to drill holes in the bottom bracing to bolt on a plate to support the side cabinet and also holes in the side of the top box to bolt the side cab on.The Gray side cab was too high to mount normally to the short Snappy KRA.I drilled holes in the box and then put in threadserts so I wouldn't have to pull the drawers on the snappy if I wanted to remove the side cab.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Nice job dude!

I used big washers and nuts and bolts, had to remove all the drawers to do it. There are more holes to be drilled, including some for an M16 eye bolt, a spacer "bracket" at the back, and maybe some for airline and a power cable thingy.

 

[loganp]

The apprentice at work nearly **** when he saw me start drilling holes in my box so I could mount my side cabinet and hook for my harness.I had to drill holes in the bottom bracing to bolt on a plate to support the side cabinet and also holes in the side of the top box to bolt the side cab on.The Gray side cab was too high to mount normally to the short Snappy KRA.I drilled holes in the box and then put in threadserts so I wouldn't have to pull the drawers on the snappy if I wanted to remove the side cab.

I have that same side box but only in Red.. Didn't know they came in black.. is that a custom paint job? looks sweet

 

[Deafautotech]

my KRL1203 and KRL1003 already has holes to bolts on... so i just need to put bolts on it and done it...

 

[caper]

I have that same side box but only in Red.. Didn't know they came in black.. is that a custom paint job? looks sweet

Spray bomb! It wasn't even sanded,just wiped down with brakekleen to get the oil off it and sprayed.

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

Merk hasn't weighed in on this b/c he's being treated for an irregular heartbeat!

 

[Moose-LandTran]

my KRL1203 and KRL1003 already has holes to bolts on... so i just need to put bolts on it and done it...

There are holes in the top of my bottom box and captive nuts in the top box to attach them. I drilled out the captive nuts and put new Nyloc ones in. There are captive nuts in the bottom box for the handle, but i wanted the handle on the side box. There weren't any bolt holes to attach the side box to the bottom box.

 

[Deafautotech]

There are holes in the top of my bottom box and captive nuts in the top box to attach them. I drilled out the captive nuts and put new Nyloc ones in. There are captive nuts in the bottom box for the handle, but i wanted the handle on the side box. There weren't any bolt holes to attach the side box to the bottom box.

ahh, i am understand now... i am not worry about bolts on my KRL now as my work want keep me working there longer.... so well you can do what you want to do so you can enjoying to working on it....

 

[Chris Adams]

Mounted a few import boxes that way, four bolts to keep them from moving around (the import intermediate boxes are never quite the exact size as the American rollers I have used them on.
Don't think I have ever punch a hole in a SnapOn box.
Although, when using slightly larger pistons on my KRA4114 I did make some steel plate 'hole extensions' but didn't have to make any new holes.

I could do it, but I wouldn't want to, just me I guess.

 

[wrenchr]

Yes, I would bolt them together in a professional manner as demonstrated. It's not like you didn't put some forethought into it.

It bugs me when guys half-*** it.

Like welding them

 

[fordbroncodave]

i made a creeper rack for my snapon creeper on my bluepoint toolbox. drilled the holes just right that i threaded screws into the pre tapped holes for the handle (if the handle was on that side) looks professional.

i want to make a hammer rack like that dude did in this topic

 

[olds88]

i threaded screws into the pre tapped holes for the handle (if the handle was on that side) looks professional.

I was out of town for a couple days and the guys I work with thought it would be a great joke to mount a hose hanger on my box, using the handle hole. I guess they thought they would get a rise out of me but I played it cool and left it there for 6 months and took it off when no one was looking lol.....

 

[Brookesy]

So wheres the pics of the finished product then Moosey???

 

[Moose-LandTran]

So wheres the pics of the finished product then Moosey???

Well it doesn't look much different to how it did before, except i've added the side handle (at last).

I removed the wheels and set it on the ground to make it immobile, so no-one can move it. It being a few inches shorter doesn't bother me, like i thought it would. I'll put the wheels back on once the current "drama" is over.

I take it you won't be drilling holes into your new box?

 

[Merkava_4]

1. Was the purpose of drilling holes for bolting on your side box?

2. Didn't the main lower box already have thread inserts for bolting on the side box?

3. How are you able to tighten the nuts on the other side of the inner wall of the main lower box?

I'm confused as hell.

 

[t100]

I removed the wheels and set it on the ground to make it immobile, so no-one can move it. It being a few inches shorter doesn't bother me, like i thought it would. I'll put the wheels back on once the current "drama" is over.

I take it you won't be drilling holes into your new box?

i should have done your way, too. i made a stainless steel hook to bolt on to the side.

 

[307WYLD]

Yes, Moose...

I too have done this, though not with a Snap-On box, but with a cheapO Home Depot, Husky-brand box that I got for a song. When I get a digital camera, I will post pics of my "upgrades" that I have overloaded my box with and let me use my box the way I want.

Examples of modifications? Eyebolts with fender washers (front and back) as pry-bar holders. U-bolts with fender washers (again, front and back) as C-clamp holders. Cheap garage door handles, since my lower box never came with handles! 2.5" wide 1/8" thick steel, running the depth of the box to reinforce the crappy wheels that came with the box. Just by doing this alone, my box went from being able to handle 350 lbs to over 500lbs without the thin sheetmetal tearing or warping all to hell.

Would any of you guys (you know who you are..) do this to your boxes?

And now my box is all bolted together.
-Moosey.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

1. Was the purpose of drilling holes for bolting on your side box?

2. Didn't the main lower box already have thread inserts for bolting on the side box?

3. How are you able to tighten the nuts on the other side of the inner wall of the main lower box?

I'm confused as hell.

1. The purpose of drilling holes for the side box was to bolt it on and permanently attach it. Before it just "hung" on a lip on the bottom box so it wasn't safe/secure and it would move, i didn't want that, i wanted it bolted solid together.


2. There are captive nuts in the bottom frame of the top box. They take small bolts (~1/4" thread, 3/8" head.) but i wanted bigger ones, so i drilled the threads out and used metric M8 bolts with a 13mm head and nyolc nuts. I'll add another 4 bolts sometime later on. This stops the top box moving and stops anyone from being able to steal it.

3. When i drilled the (8) holes to attach the side box to the bottom box i measured where the slots are for the slides and lined them up, that way i could use the slots to insert the nuts/bolts/washers into the holes i drilled and i then i used a 1/4" socket and extension to tighten them. You can't really see it in this pic, but the holes are staggered to meet with the slots on the inside:

The side handle was much harder to do, i measured the hole pattern from the bottom box and transferred it over to the side box. The front bolt holes almost met with the slots for the slides, a distributor wrench held one of the forward nuts while a crowfoot was used for the other. The rears were much harder, as they weren't near the slots. I used a magnet to place the washers on the bolts (i laid the box on its side, passed them through the forward slots and flicked them over to the magnet which was fed through a rear slot) the nuts were placed in a similar way (masking tape held them on the magnet, i turned the bolts from the outside to get the threads started, i then slipped a 10x13mm wrench through one of the front slots, got it in place with the magnet and used a 1/4" driver to hold it steady while i tightened the bolts from the outside with a ratchet.

Does that help explain?
-Moose.

i should have done your way, too.

You still can. It's frustrating but well worth it.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Examples of modifications? Eyebolts with fender washers (front and back) as pry-bar holders. U-bolts with fender washers (again, front and back) as C-clamp holders. Cheap garage door handles, since my lower box never came with handles! 2.5" wide 1/8" thick steel, running the depth of the box to reinforce the crappy wheels that came with the box. Just by doing this alone, my box went from being able to handle 350 lbs to over 500lbs without the thin sheetmetal tearing or warping all to hell.

I'm going to add a few more things when i can afford it. An 8-outlet electrical extension, a waste bin, a "spacer" at the back so i can push it up against a wall and it stops it getting too close, for when the top's open. And a big ol' M16 thread eyebolt in the bottom with some nice thick steel plate so i can chain it down. I kinda want to bolt my vice down to the side box, but it wouldn't be a great deal of use, and the vice handle gets in the way of the drawers.

 

[307WYLD]

I like the electrical outlet idea! Honestly I don't know why it is a $100 option on some of the newer boxes. I mean, how often have you needed an outlet to use a tool for a moments use NEAR your tool box, and have to hunt one down "somewhere" in the shop? The spacer idea as a "bump" block is another great idea.

As for the vice idea, you might consider building a fold-down station for it, that uses piano hinge and a prop-rod, so you can let it hang against the side of your box when not using it, and would still be able to use it in a vertical position when it's down. Just an idea.

I'm going to add a few more things when i can afford it. An 8-outlet electrical extension, a waste bin, a "spacer" at the back so i can push it up against a wall and it stops it getting too close, for when the top's open. And a big ol' M16 thread eyebolt in the bottom with some nice thick steel plate so i can chain it down. I kinda want to bolt my vice down to the side box, but it wouldn't be a great deal of use, and the vice handle gets in the way of the drawers.

 

[MadMark]

Caper,
I like the prybar/screwdriver cabinet on the side of the Grey chest.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

I like the electrical outlet idea! Honestly I don't know why it is a $100 option on some of the newer boxes. I mean, how often have you needed an outlet to use a tool for a moments use NEAR your tool box, and have to hunt one down "somewhere" in the shop? The spacer idea as a "bump" block is another great idea.

As for the vice idea, you might consider building a fold-down station for it, that uses piano hinge and a prop-rod, so you can let it hang against the side of your box when not using it, and would still be able to use it in a vertical position when it's down. Just an idea.

The plan is to buy a smaller rollcab and turn it into a tool cart, but just how i want it as nothing i've seen meets my needs, Facom make a box that's close, so i may use that as a base. That'll get an electrical outlet, as well as an air manifold, so i can run one airline to the box and have a number of air tools plugged into the manifold, avoids switching air lines all the time.

The spaces/bump block idea came from a friend's box, he has a hanger thing on the back of his box that he hangs cables on, maybe it was meant as a spacer, i don't know.


I like the vice storage idea (like the one in Monte's thread?) but i don't think the side box could handle that vice being used, it really needs a steel bench. I just don't have anywhere else to put it. If it was bolted down it would at least stop moving and i could use it more for the little things i use it for. I have a bunch of VW-Audi M16 hub bolts which are perfect for it.

 

[caper]

Caper,
I like the prybar/screwdriver cabinet on the side of the Grey chest.

Yeah it's a neat feature that i haven't seen from any other manufacturer.

Moose,you mentioned there's drama going on.What is happening to make you worried about your box security?

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Moose,you mentioned there's drama going on.What is happening to make you worried about your box security?

I did some work for someone who used to be a friend (at the time) now they're being unreasonable because a part they supplied turned out to be f**ked, and i refused to pay for the replacement or give them the money back. I fitted the parts they supplied, i even offered if they provided a correct replacement i'd fit it for free. Now they're chatting **** to me.

It may be over now, but better safe than sorry.

 

[Merkava_4]

Does that help explain?
-Moose.

Yes it does. You're a clever SOB Moose.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Yes it does. You're a clever SOB Moose.

Thanks dude!

In 5 hours of f**king around trying to make it work you're bound to get somewhere. It took a lot of swearing and determination to get it how it is and make it all work, but it came out damn near perfect for me. I'm happy with it.

 

[Diesel_Crawler]

You should be worrying less about bolting it together and more about feeding us junkies are fix...now get those pictures damn it!

 

[nissan_crawler]

You should be worrying less about bolting it together and more about feeding us junkies are fix...now get those pictures damn it!

ummm...he did.

 

[Brookesy]

Doesn't need any holes drilling just yet. Most of done to mine so far is wax it & put a sticker on it.

Wheres the black plate gone that was on front of chest??

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Doesn't need any holes drilling just yet. Most of done to mine so far is wax it & put a sticker on it.

Wheres the black plate gone that was on front of chest??

I took it off soon after i bough it. Didn't like it much anyway, as to its whereabouts now, i have no idea.

 

[Diesel_Crawler]

ummm...he did.

Not enough