One tool you have likely never used

[rtz]

But you'd use it every time you had a stuck bolt or fastener. The knocker.

https://www.browntool.com/Listview/tabid/344/txtSearch/knocker/ProductID/97/Default.aspx

Used to use one of those daily. Think about a situation where a fastener has been tightened to the point that it's now stuck or through use or load; has "moved" and potentially "stretched" the threads and now it's galled and all bound up.

What to do? Drive the threads back down in place. While twisting to un loosen it at the same time of course.

Get out your rivet gun, the knocker, and your socket or driver or whatever. Lean into it and put your body weight on it so it will really hammer good; all the while twisting the lever. Never had a bolt that couldn't be removed using that tool. I hear some say "just use some penetrating oil". How long will that take? I ain't got time for that. I got 1,000+ more fasteners to remove. "Use some heat" and cause an explosion or catch everything on fire?

Granted I didn't have to use the tool on every fastener; just the stuck ones which would always be a few or more.

Now for a rivet gun; get at least a little 3x or 4x. Ramp up the trigger pull on it till you get results. You can tap on it lightly for infinity and it won't change nothing. If it's real stuck; get out a big gun 7x or 9x. Like a demolition hammer. Unlike with the small guns which always feel like that have to be ran wide open to get any results; the large gun has enough thump and impact that one can use it lightly and get good and quick results. Of course if it's really stuck; open up on it and let it have it!

https://www.browntool.com/Listview/tabid/344/CategoryID/36/Level/a/Default.aspx

Extremely satisfying tool combination to use on stuck bolts. Grab the freebie gun at HF for something to play around with. A lot of people don't realize you have to apply pressure to it to make it "work". It won't just machine gun with no load on it. And if your not pushing hard; it's not hitting hard.

 

[BFBOB]

Got to admit that's a new one on me. Like an impact wrench, but axial impact instead of radial. I don't have a rivet gun, but I do have an air hammer - with the .401 shank. Sounds like a good tool to add to the arsenal, and not even expensive.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Always had good luck with an impact driver, 1 smack with a hammer usually does it.

 

[Tonyuk]

Those are hard to find here, work very well for brake rotor screws that are really cheesed.

 

[L.Cheapo]

Those have been around for a long time. I have the Mayhew version, it works well to get rusted in unit hub bearings moving out of the knuckle.

 

[Michael_in_DE]

I've seen the ones for the air hammers which are essentially the same as this. They're supposed to be pretty great.

 

[WhiffySpark]

I have a Matco version. Beside it eating tips they are great for brake rotors

 

[ReggieR]

I have plain old Proto 3/8 and 1/2 impact drivers and a 4 lb drilling hammer. Always gets them out( except when I need to get my torch)

 

[landrover bodger]

Those are hard to find here, work very well for brake rotor screws that are really cheesed.

sealey do one that works in an air chisel

 

[rtz]

And a reducer fitting is available to make the big .498 be .401.
https://www.browntool.com/Listview/tabid/344/txtSearch/Reducer/ProductID/2849/Default.aspx

 

[McFarmer]

I ran across an old 3/4 inch drive version, must have been an old truck mechanic. I wanted it for the sockets but there were too many missing.

 

[cvairwerks]

These help too, when you can't hammer on fasteners:
https://www.browntool.com/Listview/tabid/344/txtSearch/brutus/ProductID/1719/Default.aspx

I've used them on everything from a #8 screw, up to an AN8 bolts.

 

[rtz]

Used one of those a couple times too. Don't remember the exact details of the situation but it worked supremely. Case being can't get enough pressure(overhead!) to keep the bit from camming out or the fastener is chewed out. Could even use a second person to put downward force on it while the other removes the fastener.

 

[rodknocker]

I always try to read early "how to" books pre 1950 stuff. That being said the mention of using a small hammer and quality chisel is repeated throughout most of the books for stubborn bolts. I'm a mechanic in the rust belt and I'm surprised at the success when using said tools. If you take the time to plan out a repair on an unfamiliar nut/bolt and use a small hammer and punch, strike the nut/bolt a few times before putting a wrench on, you'll be surprised what will actually come loose.

 

[Mikeske]

We used those extensively in aviation and when I worked at Boeing (For almost 30 years) they were called there "Lester Tool".

 

[milwaukeephil]

I have a Mayhew Shake n Break. Same theory, but you have to put a wrench on it. I think I like this style with the lever built in better.

 

[1950mercury]

Craftsman robo grips...

 

[joe_padavano]

How is this any different from an impact wrench?

 

[cvairwerks]

A knocker goes into a rivet gun and NOT an air hammer. Trigger controls is paramount in making the fastener loosen, and not damaging the material or structure the screw or bolt goes thru.
A knocker's energy is imparted along the center axis of the screw or bolt, with the intent to use vibration to break the microwelding of the thread surfaces. An impact imparts it's energy at 90 degrees to the screw axis, with the intention of forcing the fastener to turn. An impact is pretty much worthless when the head of the fastener or nut is damaged and no longer fits into a socket or a drive tip fits the recess.

 

[danielbuck]

yes, you'd want to use a gun that you can feather. I've used this tool a few times, so far has a good track record.

 

[Old Man Roger]

When I said Impact driver, I meant the type you use with a hammer. Not an electric impact gun. Like the one in this video.

 

[cvairwerks]

Those type tools still impart a rotation component when struck. The knocker has no rotation, until it's specifically turned. Also, those tools don't work without serious deformation on stuff like .032" aluminum skins.... If you noticed in that video and others like it, they are using 2-5 pound mini sledge hammers with them. When the guy gets going on that screw after cutting the slot in it, notice how much movement there is in the structure...

 

[Old Man Roger]

Those type tools still impart a rotation component when struck. The knocker has no rotation, until it's specifically turned. Also, those tools don't work without serious deformation on stuff like .032" aluminum skins.... If you noticed in that video and others like it, they are using 2-5 pound mini sledge hammers with them. When the guy gets going on that screw after cutting the slot in it, notice how much movement there is in the structure...

I didn't think of the thin material.