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One Way To Do a Garage Floor

ddawg16

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This is a link to a post in the DIY chat room.....

Basically, the guy took 2x2 squares of plywood and covered his garage concrete floor....I'm not sure I would want this...but it might be an option for some guys...

What is good about the thread is that it started 3 years ago and the guy posted back yesterday talking about how it's holding up.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/plywood-over-concrete-33204/
 
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Fastback

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I like it, I know of a vintage Mustang restoration shop that has plywood floors, although I dont know why they have them?
 

nehog

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In a machine shop wood floors are good so when you drop a tool you don't chip it, when you drop some work you don't ding, nick or damage it. Most are 6x6 with the grain up (cut from long 6x6s) where I am.
 

AussieDan

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Syracuse, NY
A few years ago I made a cheap floor in a dirt-floor barn by leveling and compacting the dirt then laying down heavy plastic & 2 layers of OSB with staggered seams. It sure beat rolling around in the dirt!
 
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In a machine shop wood floors are good so when you drop a tool you don't chip it, when you drop some work you don't ding, nick or damage it. Most are 6x6 with the grain up (cut from long 6x6s) where I am.

I visited an old manufacturing plant years ago that had that type of floor in it. Was a huge building with a wooden floor that had 6" x 6" boards, ends up.

Can't imagine how much labor and cost went into that floor.
 

odie82

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Jan 3, 2010
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Give that floor 12 mths I bet it won't look that good, buckles, gaps, splits, etc...


if you read the post its been 3 years since he put in in,

Thanks! It's been about 3 years now, I think, and I'm very pleased with how it's holding up
 

browntown

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Salem, OR
I like the idea, but I would never endeavor to try it. I can't cut wood that reliably to have that many flush joints. I know I'd make a mess of it.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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I'm not sure I get why you'd want to do this? It's flammable, it absorbs spilled oil and grease, its not as durable as a concrete floor nor a tile floor. It DOES look "old-timey" - I get that, but I can't imagine doing this. IF I were going to cover my otherwise good concrete floor with something other than a modern epoxy I'd use tile or 12x12 vinyl tiles
 

gsport

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i like it.. but only if it was going to be a wood working shop... spills would kill it over time (gas or oil).. and of course NO welding or cutting.. lol
 
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ddawg16

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Intresting comments on that floor.....

I agree that it is only practical if the primary usage is wood working.....

I wonder how many of the posters who commented regarding 'fire hazard' also have OSB or plywood for walls?

Side note....my wife commented that the original poster could have improved the look of the floor if he had altered the grain of the plywood squares.
 

djd99

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Owosso,Michigan
I wouldn't do it myself it would be too hard to clean. Here's what he said 3 years later!

Thanks! It's been about 3 years now, I think, and I'm very pleased with how it's holding up. Remember that this is in a workshop, so I'm willing to put up with imperfections. I've got some places that have buckled alittle. It would not be acceptable for me if that was happening in my house, but for my purposes it's no problem at all. I thought for sure I was going to have to pull up a large portion of it when in May of '10 we were hit with the floods you may have read about. Water came over the pad and under the floor. But, all I did was run fans and it was fine.

I believe all I did was put down some Thomsons water seal on the concrete. Then I put roofing paper on top of that...with the flooring on top of that. Everything is being held together by bisquits and is floating. Nothing is nailed down at all. The reason for buckling in a couple of places is probably because I may not have left enough space around the outside edges. But, I have had many band rehearsals and have built many a project in that room over the last 3 or so years. Would not have done it any differently. Hope that helps. jw
 

dittle fart around

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I visited an old manufacturing plant years ago that had that type of floor in it. Was a huge building with a wooden floor that had 6" x 6" boards, ends up.

Can't imagine how much labor and cost went into that floor.

Worked at a Fisher Body plant in Pontiac, Michigan. The plant wash huge and the floors were 4X6 end cut blocks. Those guys are on their feet 8 hours a day and at the time I worked there three shifts a day. The blocks were laid on an asphalt base and set without mastic. During change over when tracks were moved around the blocks come up. You make the change and the same block go back down fitted around the changes.
 

ert01

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Jun 26, 2011
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Can anyone post a link or something on how to do an end-grain floor? I knew a guy YEARS ago who did his basement in 4x4's cut and stacked end grain up and then sanded to lock it all in place. I have been thinking a lot about how durable that floor was and I'm considering doing it in my little workshop. As far as I know all he did was cut the 4x4 to 4" lengths, then stack them all side by side and sand it but it seems almost too easy...
 

7echo

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coastal Georgia
Can anyone post a link or something on how to do an end-grain floor? I knew a guy YEARS ago who did his basement in 4x4's cut and stacked end grain up and then sanded to lock it all in place. I have been thinking a lot about how durable that floor was and I'm considering doing it in my little workshop. As far as I know all he did was cut the 4x4 to 4" lengths, then stack them all side by side and sand it but it seems almost too easy...

I have seen similar floors and wondered if there were screws used to tighten up certain areas, or some other means to keep them tight?

If anyone has knowledge on this type floor please post up!
 

Steevo

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I think those end grain floors are awesome. If I ever have a dedicated wood shop, or machine shop that will see no grinding, welding or other wood-unfriendly activities, I'd consider doing a floor like that.
 

meissen

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Heck it doesn't seem like it'd be all that bad for simple mechanic work either... if a few blocks get stained, yank the blocks out and replace with new blocks.
 

Thruxton

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I think those end grain floors are awesome. If I ever have a dedicated wood shop, or machine shop that will see no grinding, welding or other wood-unfriendly activities, I'd consider doing a floor like that.

They really are fine. I worked in a GE transformer plant in the 60's, and a lot of brazing and welding took place over those floors, which IIRC were creosote-treated, and nary a problem. And extremely comfortable, for a floor of course, to work on.
 
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