zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice job Paco. Brake fluid is one item I am **** about as well. It's cheap and doesn't stay too awfully long in my cars either.
One year later 40'x80'
- Thread starter fnieto
- Start date
With fresh brake fluid in the Sierra I changed out the OEM rubber lines with Russell stainless steel braided lines designed for 4-6" lifts. I had never changed the original as they where new at the time of the lift. They where a little tight but nothing too concerning.
With the rig now 14 years old It was time and with fresh fluid even more.
The kit comes with five hoses. I found this kit online for $89 with free shipping (Ebay) . The same kit is offered by other suppliers for as much as $170 so shop by part number.
The kit comes with some clamps and aluminum crush washers for the banjo fittings.
I used copper crush washers vs the supplied aluminum.
An example of the OEM lines with the Suspention at full droop shows the tight line. Normally not a problem with the rigs Suspention loaded.
A tapped hole was used to secure one of those supplied clamps. I also reused the OEM clamp that was crimped on the old hose.
I split a section of new rubber fuel line to pad the steel line on the added clamp. The new UCA's have a bracket for the OEM brake lines to secure to. I also used quality zip ties to secure the ABS cable on.
Here you can see the longer line with added slack. The new front lines also use a jam nut to secure them through the frame bracket.
The rear center line above the axel also provided extra slack and fit nicely as did the rear caliper lines.
The brakes where bled starting from the furthest point of the master to finish up this job.
I would recommend this kit for anyone needing to upgrade with a lift installed.
Thanks for visiting.
With the rig now 14 years old It was time and with fresh fluid even more.
The kit comes with five hoses. I found this kit online for $89 with free shipping (Ebay) . The same kit is offered by other suppliers for as much as $170 so shop by part number.
The kit comes with some clamps and aluminum crush washers for the banjo fittings.
I used copper crush washers vs the supplied aluminum.
An example of the OEM lines with the Suspention at full droop shows the tight line. Normally not a problem with the rigs Suspention loaded.
A tapped hole was used to secure one of those supplied clamps. I also reused the OEM clamp that was crimped on the old hose.
I split a section of new rubber fuel line to pad the steel line on the added clamp. The new UCA's have a bracket for the OEM brake lines to secure to. I also used quality zip ties to secure the ABS cable on.
Here you can see the longer line with added slack. The new front lines also use a jam nut to secure them through the frame bracket.
The rear center line above the axel also provided extra slack and fit nicely as did the rear caliper lines.
The brakes where bled starting from the furthest point of the master to finish up this job.
I would recommend this kit for anyone needing to upgrade with a lift installed.
Thanks for visiting.
Attachments
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I may have to look into those braided SS lines Paco. I am still running the OEM lines and utilizing drop down brackets that came with my RCD suspension kit. Works great on a heavy truck that really doesn't flex like my Jeep but I like those lines and may have to follow your lead.
Mike,
Heres a link to the Ebay seller:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Russell-69...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I now remember I had a $10 drop from ebay bucks. They do charge Tax now so expect a little bit more.
The seller has impeccable feedback too.
Heres a link to the Ebay seller:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Russell-69...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I now remember I had a $10 drop from ebay bucks. They do charge Tax now so expect a little bit more.
The seller has impeccable feedback too.
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks Paco. I'll check them out.
A couple of lathe upgrades to speed things along. First was a custom tool post nut with a handle. Any time I needed to change my tool angle I would reach for a breaker bar. I've done it this way for so long a dedicated bar and socket was always on top of the head stock. Enough of that nonsense! I didn't have any large hex stock but I had plenty of 1-3/4" round CR.
I began by facing, drilling and tapping a 3/4-16 thread pitch. I then turned down the diameter to 1-11/16" leaving a shoulder at the threaded end. The part was then parted off. A piece of 3/4" CR was then indicated and I single point cut a matching thread using the first piece as a gauge. I didn't want to use a bolt as I needed it to run true. This new threaded 3/4" CR now became a means to secure the parted piece into the lathe for further operations. Once indicated in, I faced the parted end and set the compound to 20º and cut a taper to my eyes liking.
Once this was done I used the same setup (stud and soon to be nut) and moved to the mill. A 3/4" collet block was used to mill the sides flat. Once done I was able to tighten it on the tool post via wrench. I wanted the handle to end up out of the way once tight. The new nut was marked, removed and re-mounted into the collet block for drilling and tapping a 1/2-13". The whole set-up was mounted at 20º offset for drilling/tapping.
A piece of 5/8" CR was threaded at both ends and lastly a piece of 1" aluminum was faced, drilled, tapped turned, tapered, grooved and parted. The newly turned handle was used to secure the knob for the last facing and chamfer operation. I don't use drawings for things like this. I take it one step at a time from idea to finished product.
I failed to get any shots of the making of the nut. Thats why I explained it in detail but here are some shots of the 5/8" CR handle and aluminum knob.
After a scratch pass, a couple of decent DOC and I had nice thread engagement with a standard off the bin nut.
The 1" aluminum round bar prior to grooving and parting.
The three components.
Assembled and ready for test.
With the new T post nut tight, it's out of the way from the chuck and lines up nicely.
The two handles share a similar angle.
No more tool required for angle adjustments!
Thanks for looking.
I began by facing, drilling and tapping a 3/4-16 thread pitch. I then turned down the diameter to 1-11/16" leaving a shoulder at the threaded end. The part was then parted off. A piece of 3/4" CR was then indicated and I single point cut a matching thread using the first piece as a gauge. I didn't want to use a bolt as I needed it to run true. This new threaded 3/4" CR now became a means to secure the parted piece into the lathe for further operations. Once indicated in, I faced the parted end and set the compound to 20º and cut a taper to my eyes liking.
Once this was done I used the same setup (stud and soon to be nut) and moved to the mill. A 3/4" collet block was used to mill the sides flat. Once done I was able to tighten it on the tool post via wrench. I wanted the handle to end up out of the way once tight. The new nut was marked, removed and re-mounted into the collet block for drilling and tapping a 1/2-13". The whole set-up was mounted at 20º offset for drilling/tapping.
A piece of 5/8" CR was threaded at both ends and lastly a piece of 1" aluminum was faced, drilled, tapped turned, tapered, grooved and parted. The newly turned handle was used to secure the knob for the last facing and chamfer operation. I don't use drawings for things like this. I take it one step at a time from idea to finished product.
I failed to get any shots of the making of the nut. Thats why I explained it in detail but here are some shots of the 5/8" CR handle and aluminum knob.
After a scratch pass, a couple of decent DOC and I had nice thread engagement with a standard off the bin nut.
The 1" aluminum round bar prior to grooving and parting.
The three components.
Assembled and ready for test.
With the new T post nut tight, it's out of the way from the chuck and lines up nicely.
The two handles share a similar angle.
No more tool required for angle adjustments!
Thanks for looking.
Attachments
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Very nicely done Paco.
Also thanks for the tip on the Russell braided brake lines, mine showed up on Monday so now I just have to find time to install them on my Duramax, which probably won't happen until spring.
Also thanks for the tip on the Russell braided brake lines, mine showed up on Monday so now I just have to find time to install them on my Duramax, which probably won't happen until spring.
rmack898
Well-known member
Nice job Paco,
I will most certainly copy your idea on both my lathes once I get them down here and start getting my shop back in order. I've had a 15" Crescent wrench sitting on top of my lathe for way too many years.
I will most certainly copy your idea on both my lathes once I get them down here and start getting my shop back in order. I've had a 15" Crescent wrench sitting on top of my lathe for way too many years.
Hi Mac,
You won't miss that 15" Crescent hanging around.
The second lathe upgrade was a carriage lock handle. The Acra uses a 12mmx 1.75 Allen head cap bolt that requires a 6mm Allen wrench to lock the carriage down for operations like parting etc. This is a nuisance IMO and had to be corrected.
I used 1" drill rod for the main bolt and 5/16" drill rod for the lever.
Its nice to simply change the gearbox setting to single point cut metric threads.
The 1" drill rod was 36" long and since I hate to waste even a fraction if material I chucked the whole length in.
At the other end of the chuck the Spyder was used to secure/support the floating end. One of the first things I made for this machine was this spyder.
Turning the shaft to fit with a .002" clearance into the bore of the carriage and the major diameter for the 12mm x 1.75 thread pitch.
Treading the 5/16" drill rod lever.
Some collet block work to drill and tap the lever hole. I also counter bored the hole for the lever to transition into the bolt. I really like that spring loaded center for this operation.
The finished pieces ready for assembly.
I used red loc-tite to secure the lever into the bolt to finish it up. I should mention, prior to drilling the lever on the bolt, I test fitted the bolt on the machine and tightened down using soft jaws on a pair of pliers and marked the hole location. I wanted the lever to be in a convenient position when locked down and also when loose. The lower portion of the clamp utilizes a grub screw to keep the clamp square to the bottom of the ways.
You won't miss that 15" Crescent hanging around.
The second lathe upgrade was a carriage lock handle. The Acra uses a 12mmx 1.75 Allen head cap bolt that requires a 6mm Allen wrench to lock the carriage down for operations like parting etc. This is a nuisance IMO and had to be corrected.
I used 1" drill rod for the main bolt and 5/16" drill rod for the lever.
Its nice to simply change the gearbox setting to single point cut metric threads.
The 1" drill rod was 36" long and since I hate to waste even a fraction if material I chucked the whole length in.
At the other end of the chuck the Spyder was used to secure/support the floating end. One of the first things I made for this machine was this spyder.
Turning the shaft to fit with a .002" clearance into the bore of the carriage and the major diameter for the 12mm x 1.75 thread pitch.
Treading the 5/16" drill rod lever.
Some collet block work to drill and tap the lever hole. I also counter bored the hole for the lever to transition into the bolt. I really like that spring loaded center for this operation.
The finished pieces ready for assembly.
I used red loc-tite to secure the lever into the bolt to finish it up. I should mention, prior to drilling the lever on the bolt, I test fitted the bolt on the machine and tightened down using soft jaws on a pair of pliers and marked the hole location. I wanted the lever to be in a convenient position when locked down and also when loose. The lower portion of the clamp utilizes a grub screw to keep the clamp square to the bottom of the ways.
Attachments
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Soooo nice! I will be copying those two as well because both of those are a pain in the ***.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Fantastic work Paco.
Quick question. What are you using as a final process to achieve the beautiful surface finish? My lathe creates a nice finish but I still find myself running over the finished piece with some 220-grit then some 400-grit emery cloth to achieve the results I want.
Thanks brother.
Quick question. What are you using as a final process to achieve the beautiful surface finish? My lathe creates a nice finish but I still find myself running over the finished piece with some 220-grit then some 400-grit emery cloth to achieve the results I want.
Thanks brother.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Awesome. Thank you.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
FYI, I have been using green Scotchbrite with good results.
YMMV
YMMV
rmack898
Well-known member
Hey Paco, I'm glad to see that I'm not the only on the writes dimensions on the mill vise with a sharpie to keep track of where I'm at or where I have to go.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Who doesn't do that??
Exactly. Easily wipes off when cleaning up afterwards and doesn't get lost like a small piece of paper.
I also picked up a smallish (12"x14") dry erase magnetic board that I have stuck to my control box directly above my lathe that I write measurements on so I can see them while standing at the lathe and then wipe them off when done and wiping the lathe down.
I been wanting to build a dedicated holder for a Starrett dial indicator (26-611J) that I could use on a QCTP. The indicator would be used mostly to indicate axel concentricity but I also want the ability to dial in perpendicularity. The resolution if the indicator is .0001" with a range of .200" making it a good match with the Bison 4 Jaw combination chuck.
I started out with a scrap piece of 1" square bar of aluminum and milled the ends to length. The features needed for the indicator where straight forward and simple. No drawing or sketch was followed just simple measurements drawn on with a sharpie.
with the main pockets completed the surface was cleaned up and the a couple more clearance features where done with a 5/16" ball nose end mill.
Two holes drilled and tapped followed by all four sides cleaned up. To finish up I all corners chamfered for a clean look.
The indicator fits perfectly nice and solid.
An example of the new tool in parallel use. You notice the test indicator in use as well. I wanted to demonstrate how I used to dial in. The test indicator has a resolution of .0005" and for most jobs is adequate.
This shows the new tool being used to check the face for perpendicularity.
All my tool holders are CXA Alloris or Armstrong. I didn't want to give up a quality tool holder for this so I purchased an import from All Industrial tool for under $25. I must say the quality is surprising with a nice surface ground finish. A perfect application for a dedicated indicator.
I started out with a scrap piece of 1" square bar of aluminum and milled the ends to length. The features needed for the indicator where straight forward and simple. No drawing or sketch was followed just simple measurements drawn on with a sharpie.
with the main pockets completed the surface was cleaned up and the a couple more clearance features where done with a 5/16" ball nose end mill.
Two holes drilled and tapped followed by all four sides cleaned up. To finish up I all corners chamfered for a clean look.
The indicator fits perfectly nice and solid.
An example of the new tool in parallel use. You notice the test indicator in use as well. I wanted to demonstrate how I used to dial in. The test indicator has a resolution of .0005" and for most jobs is adequate.
This shows the new tool being used to check the face for perpendicularity.
All my tool holders are CXA Alloris or Armstrong. I didn't want to give up a quality tool holder for this so I purchased an import from All Industrial tool for under $25. I must say the quality is surprising with a nice surface ground finish. A perfect application for a dedicated indicator.
Attachments
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice job on the DTI indicator mount Paco. Now I've gotta build me one.
matt_i
Well-known member
Nice fit.
Hello, I don't know how I missed your thread for so long! Incredible work in here, I admire your shop and dedication to it. The lathe is a work of art, the inspection/test bar says you have an admirable machine there
I got a little chuckle when I saw the oil filter cap on the 2.2 or 2.4L 4cyl, I ran into the same issue (have a 09 Malibu 2.4L as a daily driver, 227k). I thought I could just put on an adjustable wrench but the long length can't turn.
I ended up whipping up this contraption to do the job...
Looking forward to following more in the future
Hi Matt,
Thanks for the compliments, I do enjoy any shop time I can get.
Yeah, it took some convincing my mother into allowing me to take over her vehicle maintenance. You know how the older generation hates to impose or at least they feel like they're imposing. She lives in Casa Grande some 60-70 miles north of me and makes the trip down for a weekend visit a few times a year. This particular time she finally capitulated and agreed to let me take over her maintenance. I now stock all her fluids and filters on the shelf along with everything else I own. You can imagine my surprise when I lifted her car to drain the oil only to find no oil filter. A peek into the new filter box and I realized what I had. A look at where the filter lives and I knew I didn't have the right tool on hand. Instead of driving 20 minutes into town for "special tool" and probably under $10, I chose to sacrifice in or my sockets (I had at least four) to reduce the profile. The coolest part was my mom watched and kept me company. Her father was a master machinist so watching some simple lathe work made us both smile.
Your wrench looks professionally made. did you water jet the profile or slice a socket?
I like it!
Thanks for following along.
Be well.
Thanks for the compliments, I do enjoy any shop time I can get.
Yeah, it took some convincing my mother into allowing me to take over her vehicle maintenance. You know how the older generation hates to impose or at least they feel like they're imposing. She lives in Casa Grande some 60-70 miles north of me and makes the trip down for a weekend visit a few times a year. This particular time she finally capitulated and agreed to let me take over her maintenance. I now stock all her fluids and filters on the shelf along with everything else I own. You can imagine my surprise when I lifted her car to drain the oil only to find no oil filter. A peek into the new filter box and I realized what I had. A look at where the filter lives and I knew I didn't have the right tool on hand. Instead of driving 20 minutes into town for "special tool" and probably under $10, I chose to sacrifice in or my sockets (I had at least four) to reduce the profile. The coolest part was my mom watched and kept me company. Her father was a master machinist so watching some simple lathe work made us both smile.
Your wrench looks professionally made. did you water jet the profile or slice a socket?
I like it!
Thanks for following along.
Be well.
matt_i
Well-known member
Hi again, I lived in Tempe and worked just north of Queen Creek in the late 90s, hot stuff there!! But nice winters.
Thanks for the compliment, that wrench-head was an experimental Fadal CNC project, milled the internal hex with something like a 3/8" diameter, then detailed the corners with something like a 1/8" dia. Then I put it on a close fitted external hex on a short steel "post" and clamped down with a thick washer, just so I could mill the external diameter. Handle is just an eyeball off the Diacro bender. I had this vision of making them for about $20 each but I think one can buy a purpose-made Lisle socket to do the same job for around $7-9. So I'm just rocking with the prototypes But the experience in fixturing was valuable.
Funny, my great grandfather was a machinist by trade in Chicago so I think I might have linked a couple skills thru DNA lol.
Looking forward to your next project(s). Hope the shoulder is doing well!
Thanks for the compliment, that wrench-head was an experimental Fadal CNC project, milled the internal hex with something like a 3/8" diameter, then detailed the corners with something like a 1/8" dia. Then I put it on a close fitted external hex on a short steel "post" and clamped down with a thick washer, just so I could mill the external diameter. Handle is just an eyeball off the Diacro bender. I had this vision of making them for about $20 each but I think one can buy a purpose-made Lisle socket to do the same job for around $7-9. So I'm just rocking with the prototypes
But the experience in fixturing was valuable.Funny, my great grandfather was a machinist by trade in Chicago so I think I might have linked a couple skills thru DNA lol.
Looking forward to your next project(s). Hope the shoulder is doing well!
Hey Matt,
When you think of the cost of the machines we used and our time to make those oil filter tools, it becomes apparent how much they really cost. lol, But like mentioned previously, it puts a smile on our faces. Lisle $7-9 bucks. DIY, $300 hahah.
I think you and I both took after our grandfathers....
Incidentally, here's a nice 0-4" Starrett No.224 SET AA my Grandfather gave me back on Nov 6, 1979.
I was a sophomore in H.S. taking intermediate Machine Technology at the time. While on Thanksgiving break visiting him in Juarez, Mexico he learned of my machining interest and presented me with the micrometer and note.
Grandad also gifted me a slide rule that day although I prefer a calculator.
No projects in the immediate future as the shoulder is on the mend but soon enough brother.
When you think of the cost of the machines we used and our time to make those oil filter tools, it becomes apparent how much they really cost. lol, But like mentioned previously, it puts a smile on our faces. Lisle $7-9 bucks. DIY, $300 hahah.
I think you and I both took after our grandfathers....
Incidentally, here's a nice 0-4" Starrett No.224 SET AA my Grandfather gave me back on Nov 6, 1979.
I was a sophomore in H.S. taking intermediate Machine Technology at the time. While on Thanksgiving break visiting him in Juarez, Mexico he learned of my machining interest and presented me with the micrometer and note.
Grandad also gifted me a slide rule that day although I prefer a calculator
.No projects in the immediate future as the shoulder is on the mend but soon enough brother.
Attachments
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Hey Matt,
When you think of the cost of the machines we used and our time to make those oil filter tools, it becomes apparent how much they really cost. lol, But like mentioned previously, it puts a smile on our faces. Lisle $7-9 bucks. DIY, $300 hahah.
I think you and I both took after our grandfathers....
Incidentally, here's a nice 0-4" Starrett No.224 SET AA my Grandfather gave me back on Nov 6, 1979.
I was a sophomore in H.S. taking intermediate Machine Technology at the time. While on Thanksgiving break visiting him in Juarez, Mexico he learned of my machining interest and presented me with the micrometer and note.
Grandad also gifted me a slide rule that day although I prefer a calculator
No projects in the immediate future as the shoulder is on the mend but soon enough brother.
That's awesome Paco that your grandad had enough insight to see your interests and wanted to inspire and encourage your education in the field with such a generous gift. I love hearing stories like this.
Hi Mike,
Thanks brother, It was/is a special gift. I remember hanging out with him as a tike during summer vacations. He was the superintendent of an American owned plant that processed Cotton into bails, crushed the seed to extract oil and further process the crushed seed into feed If I remember correctly. The plant was rudimentary like most back then with open auger feeders and conveyer systems. I remember is shack (office) was right in the middle of the plant. filled with interments and a drafting table he always used for calculations. On any given day he could hear of feel something wrong from his shack and correct it before a total failure.
He was a firm man but gentle with us kids. He passed when my son was an infant back in 88.
My mom hangs out in the shop with me sometimes and shares many stories about her life in Juarez Mexico. I no longer have any family there. It's a dangerous sh*t hole now but a ton of priceless memories where made there.
Be well my friend.
polexican23
Banned
with a parent that immigrated from Mexico too....no truer statement has been made.
It's a dangerous sh*t hole now
It's a dangerous sh*t hole now
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Awesome story. Again, I love hearing of these stories about our ancestor's previous lives, having the desire work hard and just wanting a better life for their children which is why they came to this great country. We all can achieve greatness here while still remembering our families heritage and traditions.
Thank you for sharing brother.
With seven weeks post surgery, my shoulder felt well enough to do some lite machining.
Some time ago I built some tree planters with integrated bench seating. I had used engineered composite plastic 2x4 boards. These look similar to actual wood and share irregularities in dimensions like wood.
First order of business was to fly cut all sides flat and match all measurements.
A router bit was used to match the V-ways depth and width. The bit I used is meant for edge routing so I first used a 5/16" end mill to create a relief. The little guide bearing was removed on the bit allowing side plunging. I was turning 2K on the RPM and feeding in at 20 IPM.
The hole layout was all done on the DRO followed up with counterboring. A 1" end mill was used to create a shoulder on the two base boards. 1/2" aluminum stock was used to make standoffs drilled and taped to 1/4-20". designing as I go without drawings allows me to make improvements as I go.
Once everything was assembled, I took the final measurement for the saddle. The 8" D1-6 Bison 4-jaw combination chuck and the three jaw scroll chuck share the exact OD of 7-7/8" allowing the chuck saddle to work with both chucks.
The Kirt vise jaws where relocated to the outside allowing the assembled saddle to be supported for the radius cut. I used a boring head with the boring bar mounted horizontally.
For this to work the spindle was ran in reverse and hand fed. I took .250" cuts using the DRO set to Zero for the final pass.
A close up of the plastic board. It has a grain finish and irregular sizing.
Fly cutting flat surfaces bringing all the boards to the same shape and sizes.
With the faces flat the paired boards where milled together keeping the measurements the same.
Using a carbide router bit with the guide bearing remove, the grooves where cut with the base boards in pairs.
A test fit reviled good results.
The base pair was placed back in the mill for a shoulder cut. A 1" 6 flute end mill was used for two passes to complete. RPM was at 900 rpm to clear the plastic swarf.
Second and final pass.
More to come.
Some time ago I built some tree planters with integrated bench seating. I had used engineered composite plastic 2x4 boards. These look similar to actual wood and share irregularities in dimensions like wood.
First order of business was to fly cut all sides flat and match all measurements.
A router bit was used to match the V-ways depth and width. The bit I used is meant for edge routing so I first used a 5/16" end mill to create a relief. The little guide bearing was removed on the bit allowing side plunging. I was turning 2K on the RPM and feeding in at 20 IPM.
The hole layout was all done on the DRO followed up with counterboring. A 1" end mill was used to create a shoulder on the two base boards. 1/2" aluminum stock was used to make standoffs drilled and taped to 1/4-20". designing as I go without drawings allows me to make improvements as I go.
Once everything was assembled, I took the final measurement for the saddle. The 8" D1-6 Bison 4-jaw combination chuck and the three jaw scroll chuck share the exact OD of 7-7/8" allowing the chuck saddle to work with both chucks.
The Kirt vise jaws where relocated to the outside allowing the assembled saddle to be supported for the radius cut. I used a boring head with the boring bar mounted horizontally.
For this to work the spindle was ran in reverse and hand fed. I took .250" cuts using the DRO set to Zero for the final pass.
A close up of the plastic board. It has a grain finish and irregular sizing.
Fly cutting flat surfaces bringing all the boards to the same shape and sizes.
With the faces flat the paired boards where milled together keeping the measurements the same.
Using a carbide router bit with the guide bearing remove, the grooves where cut with the base boards in pairs.
A test fit reviled good results.
The base pair was placed back in the mill for a shoulder cut. A 1" 6 flute end mill was used for two passes to complete. RPM was at 900 rpm to clear the plastic swarf.
Second and final pass.
More to come.
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No details on the aluminum standoffs but basically a 6' piece of 1/2" aluminum was chucked up with the Spyder supporting the excess stick out. Using the Spyder really cuts down on any waste. Face, drill, tap, chamfer and part. Rinse and repeat for the three base boards and five for the saddle boards.
All holes where counter board to 300" allowing the 1/4-20 cap screw head to be sub flush. A counter sink was used to break the edge.
Assembled and laying out for saddle. The whole assembly glides very nicely on the bed ways.
Notice the Kirt vise jaws relocated to the outside allowing for the assembly to be machined as one. The carbide boring bar had to be ran in reverse for this to work. Turned at 300 RPM and the swarf hitting me in the chest as I fed the quill.
A shot of the back side supported on the outside of vice.
The results!
The heavy chuck and saddle glide with one hand.
Satisfied with the results, I face milled the ends flat to complete this project.
This video shows the saddle/cradle in action.
My back and shoulders will thank me again and again over time.
Thanks for viewing.
Turn and Burn!
All holes where counter board to 300" allowing the 1/4-20 cap screw head to be sub flush. A counter sink was used to break the edge.
Assembled and laying out for saddle. The whole assembly glides very nicely on the bed ways.
Notice the Kirt vise jaws relocated to the outside allowing for the assembly to be machined as one. The carbide boring bar had to be ran in reverse for this to work. Turned at 300 RPM and the swarf hitting me in the chest as I fed the quill.
A shot of the back side supported on the outside of vice.
The results!
The heavy chuck and saddle glide with one hand.
Satisfied with the results, I face milled the ends flat to complete this project.
This video shows the saddle/cradle in action.
My back and shoulders will thank me again and again over time.
Thanks for viewing.
Turn and Burn!
Attachments
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