manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
To my point earlier, if you had replaced them with LED's you wouldn't have needed to find a replacement bulb because they would not have failed
Open Car Trailer Improvements
- Thread starter AldeanFan
- Start date
To my point earlier, if you had replaced them with LED's you wouldn't have needed to find a replacement bulb because they would not have failed
Removable Fender on at least the Driver's Side. (for car trailer use)
Easy Stow Ramps, Can't stand Flip Ups... they are frought with their own Bullsh*t
Winch
Deck Tiedowns
Side Tiedowns
Front Tiedowns
Rear Tiedowns
Dovetail is not a bad idea.
Removable Floor Panels (rails for tires on a car then removable panels in between) comes from a racing past... LOL!
Easy Stow Ramps, Can't stand Flip Ups... they are frought with their own Bullsh*t
Winch
Deck Tiedowns
Side Tiedowns
Front Tiedowns
Rear Tiedowns
Dovetail is not a bad idea.
Removable Floor Panels (rails for tires on a car then removable panels in between) comes from a racing past... LOL!
TauntDevil
Well-known member
I built (but didnt finish) airbag cantilever system for my previous trailer so it could drop to the ground and then had the ramps slide out at the rear so I wouldnt have to carry them.
If finished, it would have allowed for extremely low cars to roll onto the trailer as well as making it where where we have to push cars up, it would be easier (less incline).
They may the air ride kits now. I think its about $750 a pair (1 pair = 1 axle but they are axleless).
If finished, it would have allowed for extremely low cars to roll onto the trailer as well as making it where where we have to push cars up, it would be easier (less incline).
They may the air ride kits now. I think its about $750 a pair (1 pair = 1 axle but they are axleless).
kerrynzl
Well-known member
1. Backup lights
2. Tool box
3. Ramps that flip up and down, not ones stored and you have lug around
4. You can't have enough tie downs
5. Easy lube bearings
6. NO CARLISLE tires. Total junk.
7. Brakes on both axles
8. No 14" tires
9. Dovetail.
10. This isn't a top 10 list
3 Should be Slide Out ramps [from the rear] . I've seen Cab/Chassis pickups on trailers where they move the payload rearward and flip up type ramps interfere with the load
9 Dovetail and tilt deck [with ramps] and you can drive a car onto the trailer with the front splitter still attached.
Nothing is worse than dis-assembling a low car just to get it on a trailer
2 The Tool box is questionable because most trailers are accessible to thieves when stored [usually stored outside]
Removeable Toolbox Yes
7 Good point, but if it only has 2 wheel brakes on Rocker equalizer suspension the brakes should be on the rear axle [brake torque pushes the rear wheels downwards] 2 wheel brakes are less likely to jack-knife on slippery roads when locked up.
I only ever build tilt deck trailers, the only difference in contruction is a pivot and locking mechanism on the tongue.
I add caster wheels to the tongue and make the pivots easy to unbolt.
It is easy to store a trailer indoors [with a car on it] with the tongue rolled underneath.
Skyking1992
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2006
- Messages
- 475
I've been pulling an open car trailer for about 40 years. We autocross a Corvette (a lot) and have traveled pretty much all over the US. I bought a custom trailer a few years ago and have been pretty happy with the results with only a couple exceptions. My partial list:
Torsion axle - I've replaced far too may springs and shackles in the past. So far my Dexter torsion axles have been trouble free and maintenance free.
Brakes on both axles - required by law in Illinois and many other states for a trailer grossing at 7000 lbs.
Ramps that are self storing and slide in to the back of the trailer. My ramps are 6 foot long and 20 inches wide. I pull a pin on the side, pull out the ramp till it hits the stop, and drop them. When it's time to store them. just pick up the end and slide them into the trailer, twist the handle on the pin, and they are locked in place.
Low enough to load a lowered Corvette, but high enough to not require the fenders to be taken on and off - that gets old after awhile. It's a fine balance but can be done. My very low C5 clears the fender by about 1/4 inch.
I have a large box across the front with a tire rack on top. I can fit 6 wide tires across the rack and a couple more inside the box. I have a tool cabinet that faces one of the side doors, so I can open the box and have full access to all my tools.
I have all LED lights including 2 that I added in the upper corners of the front box. They help when traffic is staying right next to the trailer and you need to change lanes. Also helps because the lights at the back of the trailer are low.
I was disappointed in the quality of the paint. My trailer was not cheap - I could be into a low end enclosed trailer for what this trailer cost - I expected better paint. I may break down and have a base coat, clear coat done to match the tow vehicle.
This trailer is for one purpose only - to haul my Corvette. I don't loan it to anybody and I don't put anything else on it. It has four tiedowns that are placed exactly where I need them. I can drive the Corvette on the trailer, be tied down, and on the road before many of the other drivers are even on their trailers.
My trailer was available in either steel or aluminum. After telling the manufacturer how long I keep a trailer (had the last one 20 years) and the mileage I put on, he recommended that I stick with steel.
I'm out of town the next couple of days, but when I'm back I'll try to post some pictures.
Skyking1992
Torsion axle - I've replaced far too may springs and shackles in the past. So far my Dexter torsion axles have been trouble free and maintenance free.
Brakes on both axles - required by law in Illinois and many other states for a trailer grossing at 7000 lbs.
Ramps that are self storing and slide in to the back of the trailer. My ramps are 6 foot long and 20 inches wide. I pull a pin on the side, pull out the ramp till it hits the stop, and drop them. When it's time to store them. just pick up the end and slide them into the trailer, twist the handle on the pin, and they are locked in place.
Low enough to load a lowered Corvette, but high enough to not require the fenders to be taken on and off - that gets old after awhile. It's a fine balance but can be done. My very low C5 clears the fender by about 1/4 inch.
I have a large box across the front with a tire rack on top. I can fit 6 wide tires across the rack and a couple more inside the box. I have a tool cabinet that faces one of the side doors, so I can open the box and have full access to all my tools.
I have all LED lights including 2 that I added in the upper corners of the front box. They help when traffic is staying right next to the trailer and you need to change lanes. Also helps because the lights at the back of the trailer are low.
I was disappointed in the quality of the paint. My trailer was not cheap - I could be into a low end enclosed trailer for what this trailer cost - I expected better paint. I may break down and have a base coat, clear coat done to match the tow vehicle.
This trailer is for one purpose only - to haul my Corvette. I don't loan it to anybody and I don't put anything else on it. It has four tiedowns that are placed exactly where I need them. I can drive the Corvette on the trailer, be tied down, and on the road before many of the other drivers are even on their trailers.
My trailer was available in either steel or aluminum. After telling the manufacturer how long I keep a trailer (had the last one 20 years) and the mileage I put on, he recommended that I stick with steel.
I'm out of town the next couple of days, but when I'm back I'll try to post some pictures.
Skyking1992
Just did a bunch of this on a new trailer.
I added flush mount LEDs to the deck so I could see at night.
Almost anything from Macs, in general. I added tie down track the length of the trailer. This allows for the multiple tie down points and allowed me to secure a low clearance car on the trailer with some wheel/tire straps.
So a good selection of tie down straps and accessories are needed. While we typically know what we are going to haul, you never know when you mom will call with a broken down car and you need to go pick her and her car up.
I also will be adding rollers to the rear of the beaver tail. Dam thing drags to much.
Pics
I added flush mount LEDs to the deck so I could see at night.
Almost anything from Macs, in general. I added tie down track the length of the trailer. This allows for the multiple tie down points and allowed me to secure a low clearance car on the trailer with some wheel/tire straps.
So a good selection of tie down straps and accessories are needed. While we typically know what we are going to haul, you never know when you mom will call with a broken down car and you need to go pick her and her car up.
I also will be adding rollers to the rear of the beaver tail. Dam thing drags to much.
Pics
BMW Rider
Well-known member
Just did a bunch of this on a new trailer.
I added flush mount LEDs to the deck so I could see at night.
Almost anything from Macs, in general. I added tie down track the length of the trailer. This allows for the multiple tie down points and allowed me to secure a low clearance car on the trailer with some wheel/tire straps.
So a good selection of tie down straps and accessories are needed. While we typically know what we are going to haul, you never know when you mom will call with a broken down car and you need to go pick her and her car up.
I also will be adding rollers to the rear of the beaver tail. Dam thing drags to much.
Pics
I'd like to know a bit more on your over the wheel tie downs. I will be looking to buy a trailer sometime in the future for my 79 Mustang to take it to track days, autocross etc. It's quite low and getting underneath to tie down is challenging, plus there are not a lot of good places to get an anchor with the suspension set up on it. It went by trailer up to the paint shop last month, and getting it secured took a bit of time. I figured tying down by the wheels would be far easier as long as it is a secure method.
I've had my 18' car hauler for about 20 years now.
Best addition was a winch, most of the cars I buy are non-runners and a 4500lb Superwinch is capable of dragging a car with 4 flats and rusted up brakes right onto the trailer.
I'm in the process of refurbishing my trailer now.
I'm adding removable fenders, this gives a few more inches clearance for car doors and adds some width in case I haul a pickup or SUV with big tires.
Also adding a tool box to the front, I've had a few makeshift ones over the years but finally bought one of the ones purpose built for a trailer tongue. I plan to modify it to accommodate my winch mount and a battery.
More tie downs are always good and I plan on adding a bunch.
My trailer is a steel open deck. I bought it when I was drag racing and doing demo-derby more and thought the open center would be nice for access to the bottom of the car. I never really used it that way and crawling under the trailer to work on a car is more awkward than just using a jack and stands. I have since closed in the deck with 3/4" plywood. I painted the wood and bolted it down and it's held up to the weather pretty well. If I were to buy a new trailer today I would get one with a full steel deck. Wood is nice, but it rots out, shrinks and swells, and is harder to drag things onto (I sometimes load a parted out shell of a car with no wheels).
From using other trailers, ramps that slide in the back are great. Fold up ramps interfere with long cars that hang off the back. It's a pain if the ramps stow elsewhere and you have to lug them around.
I've considered swapping mine to LED lighting, but I've got so many spare incandescent housings and bulbs I've held off on it. In 20 years I've probably replaced the tail-light housings 10 times due to them getting damaged and it's nice that I can get a replacement for less than $10 at pretty much any wal-mart or auto parts store. If I upgrade to LED's I'll be taking measures to better protect the lighting.
Best addition was a winch, most of the cars I buy are non-runners and a 4500lb Superwinch is capable of dragging a car with 4 flats and rusted up brakes right onto the trailer.
I'm in the process of refurbishing my trailer now.
I'm adding removable fenders, this gives a few more inches clearance for car doors and adds some width in case I haul a pickup or SUV with big tires.
Also adding a tool box to the front, I've had a few makeshift ones over the years but finally bought one of the ones purpose built for a trailer tongue. I plan to modify it to accommodate my winch mount and a battery.
More tie downs are always good and I plan on adding a bunch.
My trailer is a steel open deck. I bought it when I was drag racing and doing demo-derby more and thought the open center would be nice for access to the bottom of the car. I never really used it that way and crawling under the trailer to work on a car is more awkward than just using a jack and stands. I have since closed in the deck with 3/4" plywood. I painted the wood and bolted it down and it's held up to the weather pretty well. If I were to buy a new trailer today I would get one with a full steel deck. Wood is nice, but it rots out, shrinks and swells, and is harder to drag things onto (I sometimes load a parted out shell of a car with no wheels).
From using other trailers, ramps that slide in the back are great. Fold up ramps interfere with long cars that hang off the back. It's a pain if the ramps stow elsewhere and you have to lug them around.
I've considered swapping mine to LED lighting, but I've got so many spare incandescent housings and bulbs I've held off on it. In 20 years I've probably replaced the tail-light housings 10 times due to them getting damaged and it's nice that I can get a replacement for less than $10 at pretty much any wal-mart or auto parts store. If I upgrade to LED's I'll be taking measures to better protect the lighting.
NWOhioChevyGuy
Well-known member
Just did a bunch of this on a new trailer.
So a good selection of tie down straps and accessories are needed. While we typically know what we are going to haul, you never know when you mom will call with a broken down car and you need to go pick her and her car up.
Pics
Where did you get those straps? I am looking to do something similar for my F-Body.
I was looking at these.http://www.truckntow.com/vulcan-silver-series-rolling-idler-tie-down-system.html
soj
Well-known member
I can confirm this works with leaf spring dual axles with an equalizer. I made a copy of the Trailer Aid jack out of wood and aluminum. I had my trailer loaded with apx. 6K # and pulled one wheel on a stack of 2 X 6 blocks until the other wheel was clear of the ground by at least about 1". I used this height to make sure the jack would work with a loaded trailer. Thankfully, I have never had to use it, but it works great in testing. If a rear tire is flat, pull forward onto the jack. If a front tire is flat, back up onto the jack.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I agree with inline6 above about Mac's Tie Downs. They are a company based in Idaho and their quality of products, attention to detail and especially their customer service are second to none. I have been buying from them since the mid-90's and have been very happy with their products and service.
As to the open trailer, I have been towing both open and enclosed trailers since late 80's and although I much prefer an enclosed trailer, the number one thing I would do for an open car hauler would be a tilt deck. I have had ramps and they were ok, but I built an 18' tilt deck car hauler for a friend about 10 years ago and that is the only way to go in my opinion. Fast and convenient for loading/unloading, much better than with ramps.
Mike.
As to the open trailer, I have been towing both open and enclosed trailers since late 80's and although I much prefer an enclosed trailer, the number one thing I would do for an open car hauler would be a tilt deck. I have had ramps and they were ok, but I built an 18' tilt deck car hauler for a friend about 10 years ago and that is the only way to go in my opinion. Fast and convenient for loading/unloading, much better than with ramps.
Mike.
BruceMc
Well-known member
One thing I'd add that technically isn't part of the trailer - a decent brake controller. Don't go cheap, especially if you will be driving on snow or ice.
The best thing I've ever done besides all of the obvious suggestions was putting back up lights on. You can buy good quality 2" square or flush mount LED's for 30 or 40 bucks.
Macs Tie Downs makes a pretty nice receiver hitch vice as well as Wilton.
Macs Tie Downs makes a pretty nice receiver hitch vice as well as Wilton.
I have been using the "over the wheel" tie down straps for 15+ years. IMHO, they are the best way to tie down a car, especially a low car where you can't easily access under the car to attach a strap and you need to have the ratchet positioned away from the car. They allow the car to ride comfortably on it's own suspension. Most towing supply places have them. I use the kind with the 3 rubber blocks. Each block has a rib that fits in the tread on the tire so they won't slide off.
By having the straps going straight down from the tire (like inline6 shows) the tire can not rotate at all because of the friction between the strap and the tire won't allow it. Also the downward pressure keeps the vehicle from moving sideways as well.
My late brother was the safety/training manager for a new car delivery company that had a fleet of hundreds of semis. They used those straps for their high end car deliveries and he set me up with my first set. You do need to have E-track, MAC VersaTie Track or as in my case dedicated anchor points at the tires. Once you use these straps you will never go back to the traditional axle strap type system.
A few examples, you need to have the strap attachments match your track.
http://www.truckntow.com/replacement-strap-for-th001.html
http://www.truckntow.com/vulcan-classic-rolling-idler-single-strap-e-track-tie-downs.html
http://www.cargoequipmentcorp.com/Auto-Hauling-Wheel-Nets-Auto-Car-Tie-Downs-p/52xx60y-6-auto.htm
http://www.awdirect.com/soft-transport-tie-down-straight-strap-babst20e/transport-straps/
http://www.awdirect.com/soft-transport-tie-down-straight-strap-babst20e/auto-transport-straps/
The over the tire system I used is from macs custom tie downs. As noted, other places make similar products. They have the blocks with the tire groove as well.
I also used 16' per side of their versa track, with 16' of aluminum channel under the deck to secure it to. That was a fun day of cutting, drilling and aligning all the bolts.
http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/Macs-VersaTie-Tire-Block-Strap-Pack/WheelNets
They are really quite easy to use. I would prefer a direct hook on the ratchet for the front of the car strap. I may order new ratchets and move the strap over to it. It's a tight fit on the front of the trailer and the ratchet is close to the air dam.
I guess I could of done a build thread on this, but it would of only been what I said here. Trying not to bung up the improvements thread.
I also used 16' per side of their versa track, with 16' of aluminum channel under the deck to secure it to. That was a fun day of cutting, drilling and aligning all the bolts.
http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/Macs-VersaTie-Tire-Block-Strap-Pack/WheelNets
They are really quite easy to use. I would prefer a direct hook on the ratchet for the front of the car strap. I may order new ratchets and move the strap over to it. It's a tight fit on the front of the trailer and the ratchet is close to the air dam.
I guess I could of done a build thread on this, but it would of only been what I said here. Trying not to bung up the improvements thread.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Agreed. I have had their receiver mounted vise for about 4 years now and it has been a good accessory to have handy on the trail.
Mike.
Ruthless53
Well-known member
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K6B4XJ2/?tag=atomicindus08-20
This plus a regular e track tie down ring and a non e track ratchet strap gets you a wheel tie down.
I prefer using regular ratchet straps and getting a bunch of e track rings/accesories instead of the using e track only ratchets. That way i can use any strap i like or use the straps for other purposes.
You can get e track and accessories at tons of big box stores plus online.
This plus a regular e track tie down ring and a non e track ratchet strap gets you a wheel tie down.
I prefer using regular ratchet straps and getting a bunch of e track rings/accesories instead of the using e track only ratchets. That way i can use any strap i like or use the straps for other purposes.
You can get e track and accessories at tons of big box stores plus online.
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