Opinions on cutting opening in wall

[Heathens]

Just getting some other opinions on wether I can cut a opening in wall seperating garage. First picture is the garage, taller side was original pole barn style, smaller side was added on later and is traditional stick built.

Second picture is back side.

This is one side that I want to remove under the duct work. It will give me just enough room to slide a vehicle through there.

This is the other side, paneling is just nailed to original outside wall.

My main concern is how the rafter is nailed to the side of the original outside wall and I start cutting the girts underneath it it is going to lose some the roof support.

 

[Bill Bowman]

That looks to be a load bearing wall. If so, then you need a beefy header to support the weight of the roof.

 

[Heathens]

Thats kind of what I thinking but its nailed to original pole barn. I didnt think lower girts on the sides of pole barns provided any roof support.

 

[Dhagan887]

There isn't a roof load there, ok to cut. Just make sure the rafters are secured to the original building adequately, and it's not just a 16 penny nail drove through the 3/4 siding if there isn't a ceiling joist to tie the bottom of the rafters together. Especially since it still gets wet. Flashing job needs a little work.

 

[Heathens]

I believe those are older water stains from before roof was replaced. Everything seems built really well, just sketched out cutting that big of a hole. Lol

 

[kbs2244]

As long as there is no post in the way you should be OK.
For a belt and suspenders approach, put a vertical 2x6 on each side of your opening from floor to rafter.

 

[Heathens]

Yea no post in the way on back side, going in between them.

 

[bczygan]

Is the new addition rafters and ceiling joists with a ridge board? Or is it a ridge beam?

If a beam, then it carries some roof load that must be transferred to the ground with a header beam over the opening.

Open up the wall more, by removing some sheathing, to see if there is a support for the ridge. If there is, it's a beam, not a board.

Bill

 

[Heathens]

I believe it is board not beam

 

[CNGsaves]

+1 to strip the wall more and get down to the bones.

You want to remove just that little section to left of furnace . . or ALL ??
So you want free span from HVAC all the way to back wall ??

If so, for peace of mind, I'd put in vertical post by HVAC unit and beef up structure with 2x6's running all the way to back rafter tail and sister onto joists there and transfer load to wall.

 

[pmiranda]

He already stripped it down to the bones for those pictures... I believe the girts only structural function (other than holding up the siding) is to keep the wall square under wind loading. Some angle bracing in the corners would probably be good enough. I assume you're not cutting into the post in the outside wall!

 

[Heathens]

No, definitely not cutting into post. Yes just remove section that is already exposed and behind the piece that is missing a chunk out of it. Just to the right of that piece is where gas line enters original building.

 

[bczygan]

I think you will be fine, but you still need a header to support the wall.

Bill