Opinions on heaters

[jekquist]

My shop is 24x32x12, I only have plastic On the ceiling, and no real insulation other than all gaps and cracks are filled. The shop is relatively draft free. I will not be heating 24/7 just when I'm out there.


My original plan was to run Nat gas line from the meter at the house to the shop. I unfortunately couldn't afford to do that this year.

My buddies said they have had good luck with a electric 5600w infrared heaters and a ceiling fan. I have a 100a panel in my shop so I could run 2 of these no problem. They are cheap, too.

I have considered converting my 125kbtu roof hanger to propane and running a 100lb tank as another option.

I am in lower Michigan, and only really need to heat for 3 months probably 3 times a week.

If I could get the shop to 45-50 that would be ideal. I love working in a sweatshirt.

I do have a 100k btu torpedo kerosene heater as well.

What would you guys do?

 

[laser3kw]

My buddies said they have had good luck with a electric 5600w infrared heaters and a ceiling fan. I have a 100a panel in my shop so I could run 2 of these no problem. They are cheap, too.

good start - I would start with one and see if that is enough.

I have considered converting my 125kbtu roof hanger to propane and running a 100lb tank as another option

no- to complicated. you have to have an exhaust to the outside and 125k btu will eat 100lbs in about 15 hours of burn time. Plus, when it kicks on, in that small of a space, it will feel hot quick and not heat the area. SO it will continually "short cycle" - annoying and burns fuel faster.

I do have a 100k btu torpedo kerosene heater as well.

smell and the constant "ROAR" will drive you dingy.

I have a 80k "construction heater" on a 100lb propane tank. It will heat my 30 x 40 (well insulated) from 20º to 60º in under an hour. Then drop it back to 30k for a few hours and I am comfortable. If I throttle it right, I get about 30 hours of burn time.
Also, since it is the season, If you heat with propane that is not exhausted to the outside, please get a CO (carbon Monoxide) detector with a readout. I have not seen mine go above 25 after 6 hours of burn time - which is still way safe.

 

[astroracer]

Whatever works for you I guess, it really doesn't matter. I do have to ask what you will be working on and what tools you have out there. Going from freezing to 50 degrees is going to cause an awful lot of condensation on anything that is metal. Rust is going to be an issue. Been there done that. I spent more time cleaning rust off tools then I did working...
Mark

 

[jekquist]

Thanks. I will add I will be insulating slowly starting with the ceiling soon.

 

[JJThrasher]

I'd go buy a jug of kerosene personally.

 

[jekquist]

Whatever works for you I guess, it really doesn't matter. I do have to ask what you will be working on and what tools you have out there. Going from freezing to 50 degrees is going to cause an awful lot of condensation on anything that is metal. Rust is going to be an issue. Been there done that. I spent more time cleaning rust off tools then I did working...

Mark

I will be building a k5 blazer. Usual sockets, wrenches, 2 post lift, welders, grinders etc.

It hasn't been an issue in my dad's shop but he heats with wood. I don't want to loose anymore floor space or I'd put in a stove.

 

[bikesandcars]

I vote save and spend money on insulation, even thin stuff is better than nothing.

I like electric or outside vented heaters. I had a propane torpedo heater that I stopped using after it set off my CO alarm.

Search Craigslist, maybe an oil hot air or propane garage heater comes up

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[jekquist]

I vote save and spend money on insulation, even thin stuff is better than nothing.

I like electric or outside vented heaters. I had a propane torpedo heater that I stopped using after it set off my CO alarm.

Search Craigslist, maybe an oil hot air or propane garage heater comes up

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Any suggestions on types of insulation. On my dad's shop we did faced batt between the trusses with 1-by purlins. It eventually started sagging. I was thinking foam board on the bottom and maybe unfaced on top. Probably just foam board between wall grit for the walls.

 

[Jazz1]

insulate with fibreglass bats in walls and r40 in ceiling. Once the vapour barrier is installed the shop is sealed up and easier to heat. I burn wood by choice. Heating your shop I would only go natural gas. Other options are just a temporary bandaid until you bite the bullet and run a gas line