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opinions on hoist location

justin1795

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Aug 7, 2013
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blue grass IA
im getting close to calling my dirt guy back and I want to get my hoist location squared away to make it a little deeper. have a couple questions. the plan is a 2 post reqular width. I haven't decided on a specific hoist yet but leaning towards a atlas.

1: what kind of area and depth are you guys using for your hoist pads.

2: im thinking the left far back area with a slight angle to allow the cars to come in from the garage door.

3: what kind of setback from the wall?



 
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coljar

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Sep 26, 2010
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Belpre, Ohio
This is just me, but I would find the off set annoying. I understand what you're wanting to do. Mine is straight on, lined up with the middle of the door. The area where my hoist is at has 8" concrete. If I remember right, the 8" part is 8'LX12'W and then 5" surrounding that part. The posts set 14' from the front wall. When I drill the holes for the hoist, I drilled them all the way through the concrete. If you damage one of the redheads or if you want to remove the hoist later, you can pound them into the dirt. Nice garage by the way.
 

astroracer

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Jun 22, 2005
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Mid_Michigan
The offset will get annoying will quick. Line the hoist up with the door as close as possible and try to keep 2' to 3' between the wall and the post. You will want to be able to walk around it with a car in the air. Position the lift inside far enough so you can open the overhead without hitting the vehicle.
Pad size is moot as most lift manufacturers will have their own recommendations. My lift was put in as an afterthought and is doing just fine with 4" of concrete. If I were doing it again I would go with 18" x 18" x 6" deep just for the piece of mind but 4" minimum were required by Metro Lifts. Drill though or put lugs in the pad while poring.
Mark
 
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justin1795

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blue grass IA
my first thoughts were to put it on back wall infront of the door but if I wanted to store my trailer in there for the winter it would hit the hoist. or if I ever purchased a rv ect...
 

coljar

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Belpre, Ohio
my first thoughts were to put it on back wall infront of the door but if I wanted to store my trailer in there for the winter it would hit the hoist. or if I ever purchased a rv ect...

Yeah, but that will be a good excuse to add an addition later on.:beer:
 

BIG-BRO

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Jul 1, 2014
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Location
New Hampshire
With the lift in the far opposite corner as you've shown in your sketch, you will have to keep most of the garage clear/empty to get to the lift. Or move everything out to get to it. More questions like - how often do you use lift ? What is stored in garage ? Do you have non-running "project" cars that are not easily moved ? Add any large tools/equipment and workbenches to your sketch to understand where you'll be working.
If your garage is mostly all "live" running vehicles, then the layout may work.
 
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astroracer

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Replace the single 16' with two 9' or 10' doors. That will give you complete access to the whole width of the shop and the lift won't be in the way. :)
Mark
 
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Dick in Wisconsin

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Mar 3, 2012
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Shawano, Wisconsin
Don't offset. I took my race car to a guy for some work who had an offset 2 post. I have to heat the oil to start the engine, so we pushed it in by hand. Two of us. It was a cluster getting it all lined up.

Straight in the front door is the best deal.
 
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justin1795

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blue grass IA
I can't change the door size. I had to go with the land and property lines and this was my best option. I don't plan on doing side work or anything. Just maintain my own vehicles and probly have my project on the hoist alot. Is 14 foot from the wall in front pretty common?
 

coljar

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Belpre, Ohio
I can't change the door size. I had to go with the land and property lines and this was my best option. I don't plan on doing side work or anything. Just maintain my own vehicles and probly have my project on the hoist alot. Is 14 foot from the wall in front pretty common?

I think the Ben-Pak manual said 15 was the average, but 14 worked well for me. My left post is less than 2ft. from the side wall, but to get the line up with the door, I had to go with it.
 

wssix99

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Mar 2, 2011
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Chicago, IL
1: what kind of area and depth are you guys using for your hoist pads.

I learned the hard way to spec 1" over the thickness you want (to allow for variability) and watch the contractor like a hawk. (Fortunately, I was there and caught the mistakes.) I went with 5".

Pouring pads will drive cost up without giving you anything in return. (for new construction) Due to the physics and mechanics of a two post lift, pads are unnecessary as long as you have the proper depth of slab. If you thicken the slab under the lift, and do it the wrong way, you can cause the slab to crack. (There are a lot of variables that go in to that, like reinforcing, crack control joints, how the thickened profile is done, etc.)

One thing that you should do, is talk to your concrete contractor about where your saw cut joints will be in the slab, so you can work your 2 post lift placement within those. (For example, you don't want to mount a post on top of a cut joint!)


2: im thinking the left far back area with a slight angle to allow the cars to come in from the garage door.

In addition to the comments above, the angle makes a very inefficient use of that space. You'll bet more in there if you can go in straight to the lift.


3: what kind of setback from the wall?

I calculated 13' minimum for being able to put a full size truck on my lift and have it balanced. That gives me very little walk-around room in my 24' deep garage. If you have a large vehicle, I'd go 15+, depending on how much walk-around room you want and if you are going to put a bench in front of it, etc..
 

sz0k30

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Feb 12, 2014
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SE Michigan
Yours is 30x48, mine is 32x48. I have a straight in 2 post lift in the back. The problem I see in your barn is the one 16 foot door. Why? I have 2 10x10 foot doors. No angling. Just pull 2 vehicles straight in one side and 2 vehicles straight in one the other side. Looking at your stage of completion it shouldn't be much more to make the switch.
 

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justin1795

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blue grass IA
the reason for the single door is there is a pool to the left of the drive. I wouldn't be able to pull into a door on the left.
 
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