Opinions on my current surface finish (concrete slab prep for coating)

[kennkim]

Hi All -

Currently in the middle of a garage remodel and am seeking some expertise/input regarding the suitability of the current level of finish on a concrete floor slab for coating.

The slab is atleast 40 years old and the concrete seems quite hard.

Previous to the grinding I performed, the concrete was coated with atleast two different layers of unknown coating/paint by the previous homeowner/s. This was atleast 20 years ago.

I used a couple different sized angle grinders and diamond cup wheels to grind away the previous coating/s as it was not in good shape.

I am preparing the floor for new coating by me. I definitely would not prefer to use a "clear" coating/sealer and as such I am choosing between using Rust Bullet, SPGX with pigment, or a High Solids 2-part Epoxy.

After grinding the floor feels subjectively quite smooth to the touch, I am wondering if the diamond cup wheels I had used (and the way I used them) produced a finish that is too smooth for the type of coatings I am wanting to use.


Also, over the majority of the slab, the tops of the uppermost layer of aggregate in the concrete ended up getting ground flat during the grinding.

I've tried to compare the concrete to online pictures of various concrete surface profiles but I don't really have the eye for making a confident call on which CSP level it would equal.

I'd appreciate input on whether the current finish would be adequate for coating. I'd prefer to not have to go through the expense/effort/mess of further grinding but would be open to acid etching if it would be a necessary improvement on the current finish.

Example images in varying light shown below. Apologies for the shallow depth of field in the pics.

 

[kennkim]

 

[Garage Flooring]

I can't see the pics...

You should also consider a good polyurea such as https://www.garageflooringllc.com/polyurea-garage-floor-coating/

Rust Bullet or our Polyurea you would need CSP 1 . Epoxy CSP 2 - csp 3

https://www.google.com/search?q=con...=SwT5WOP6F4qC0wLsio2ACA#imgrc=chtIzlhlCE9r_M:

 

[kennkim]

My apologies GFLLC - had a hiccup during the original post, but hopefully the images are showing now in post # 2 in this thread.

I appreciate your input - definitely will look into your polyurea as well.

 

[SunsetsAndFriends]

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[SunsetsAndFriends]

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[LegacyIndustrial]

Can't see your images.
Concentrate less on texture and more on porosity.

A glass of water should turn that floor dark immediately and be readily absorbed.
If this is not the case get that grinder going.

 

[kennkim]

Pics should work now. Thoughts would be much appreciated.

The concrete does absorb water readily save for a few oil stains that I will be treating specifically.

I also will be filling in the more heavily pockmarked areas with epoxy filler.

 

[SunsetsAndFriends]

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[LegacyIndustrial]

Make sure you prime that floor. You have a very open substrate and a primer will help negate and surface anomalies.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Pics should work now. Thoughts would be much appreciated.

The concrete does absorb water readily save for a few oil stains that I will be treating specifically.

I also will be filling in the more heavily pockmarked areas with epoxy filler.

Make sure you prime that floor. You have a very open substrate and a primer will help negate and surface anomalies.

There is a reason I mentioned primer and legacy mentioned primer. This is sooooo often overlooked and sooooo important to this project -- and relatively inexpensive

 

[Armorpoxy]

This floor is fairly rough and the texture will show through SPGX.. it will perform fine, but be textured. If you want it smoother than use the Armorclad with primer and float it out a bit with the squeegee we supply, but your coverage will fall so you may need more material.


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