Opinions on my floor.

[triple0beretta]

I went from this:


To this:


The scratches are from a toolbox, engine hoist, and floor jack. The big bare looking spots are where I walked or stood. Is there anything I could put down over this to make it not look like ****. Also I need something that will hold up and not break the bank. The product I put down before was basically sealer. Or should I just live with it since I do alot of work in the garage?

 

[Garage Flooring]

What type of sealer did you use?

 

[triple0beretta]

What type of sealer did you use?

http://www.euclidchemical.com/produ...s/solvent-based-curing-sealing/diamond-clear/


My concrete guy recommended it so I thought it would be OK.

 

[lewis26]

What is your idea of breaking the bank..?

 

[triple0beretta]

What is your idea of breaking the bank..?

I really don't want to have to get into grinding the floor....... Basically looking for some I can put down over this and make it look better.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Triple:
That would be burning your money.
If you won't grind and do it right, buy some shop equipment with the cash.
You need a sand broadcast or at least a very high-performing coating.

 

[Richard Cranium]

That is what I figured that was what you were going to be told.

 

[triple0beretta]

Triple:
That would be burning your money.
If you won't grind and do it right, buy some shop equipment with the cash.
You need a sand broadcast or at least a very high-performing coating.

What would be the correct way to take care of it and roughly what would o be looking at cost wise? I don't mind spending the money I just have other things I want to do in the shop right now.

 

[Armorpoxy]

If you are hitting this with this kind of abuse our super heavy duty Armorultra FH heavy duty five layer firehouse floor would be a good choice. We sell this to Caterpiller dealers and such for use in their shops. Cost with GJ discount around $1.50 per sq foot, but he thickness is in the 130 mil range. We also have Urethane Mortar Systems in the 250 mil range for these very demanding applications.

https://armorpoxy.com/commercial-floors-and-hangars/firehouse-heavy-equipment-floors/

 

[APEowner]

If you are hitting this with this kind of abuse our super heavy duty Armorultra FH heavy duty five layer firehouse floor would be a good choice. We sell this to Caterpiller dealers and such for use in their shops. Cost with GJ discount around $1.50 per sq foot, but he thickness is in the 130 mil range. We also have Urethane Mortar Systems in the 250 mil range for these very demanding applications.

https://armorpoxy.com/commercial-floors-and-hangars/firehouse-heavy-equipment-floors/

How will this hold up to grinder sparks and welder slag?

 

[Zeke]

Why don't you just clean it and recoat now and then? I guess the original purpose of the sealer was to prevent oils and such from staining the floor? I'd think just maintaining the coating you have will achieve that.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Sparks and such are not an issue, no resinous coating system can withstand hot slag without a burn mark or slight mark. That being said if it did get slightly damaged from slag, touch up is easy.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I would give them a call. If you have a look at their tech specs http://euclidchemical.com/fileshare/ProductFiles/TechData/Diamond_Clear.pdf they have directions that might be helpful -- on how to get the product to liquefy and cure again or removed. If nothing else you can make this floor look better until you know what you want to do.

In all seriousness though have a look at your casters. Clean casters in good condition should not do this. Scuffed and damaged casters or casters dragging around dirt etc have been known to damage even urethane coatings.

We have several coatings, mats and tiles that can help. But first lets see if you can get where you need to be without spending to much money.

 

[triple0beretta]

I would give them a call. If you have a look at their tech specs http://euclidchemical.com/fileshare/ProductFiles/TechData/Diamond_Clear.pdf they have directions that might be helpful -- on how to get the product to liquefy and cure again or removed. If nothing else you can make this floor look better until you know what you want to do.

In all seriousness though have a look at your casters. Clean casters in good condition should not do this. Scuffed and damaged casters or casters dragging around dirt etc have been known to damage even urethane coatings.

We have several coatings, mats and tiles that can help. But first lets see if you can get where you need to be without spending to much money.

The toolbox and Jack are brand new. I will look into the info on the website.

 

[bearcat32]

how old is the floor? and how long did you weight before you put sealer on?

 

[triple0beretta]

how old is the floor? and how long did you weight before you put sealer on?

The floor was poured in late December. My concrete guy put the first coat of sealer on the next day and I put another coat of a week later I think.

 

[Shiftless]

The floor was poured in late December. My concrete guy put the first coat of sealer on the next day and I put another coat of a week later I think.

Most of the pros say something like this...

A liquid membrane cure should be applied as soon as finishing operations are complete to trap the moisture, then........... Wait 28 days until concrete is fully cured. Most of the cure should be worn off of this surface by now but powerwashing would not hurt to do. Now is when a Penetrating sealer should be applied. The reason is this... During the 28 day curing cycle the concrete is hyrdating, at 28 days it has used up all the water in the concrete and the sealer will now be able to fully penetrate.

 

[Garage Flooring]

The toolbox and Jack are brand new. I will look into the info on the website.

That I would not have expected!

 

[triple0beretta]

Most of the pros say something like this...

A liquid membrane cure should be applied as soon as finishing operations are complete to trap the moisture, then........... Wait 28 days until concrete is fully cured. Most of the cure should be worn off of this surface by now but powerwashing would not hurt to do. Now is when a Penetrating sealer should be applied. The reason is this... During the 28 day curing cycle the concrete is hyrdating, at 28 days it has used up all the water in the concrete and the sealer will now be able to fully penetrate.

I followed my concrete guys suggestion on how to put it down. I think the sealer got penetration. It just seems like the top layer doesn't hold up too well. I guess I shouldn't have expected it to stay pretty.