opinions on shop crane?

[Denee007]

Hi ya'll, it's been a while since I've posted, but I have to ask you guys, cause ya'll are the guru's of invention and modifications!!
Here's kind of my problem~ I have kind of bad lower back, but I'm determined to continue at my own pace of doing what I love, working on old cars n trucks!
I bought this '59 Apache already painted, but I'll be changing out the motor,******, and hopefully the rear axle into my truck from this '72 doner car, a '72 Impala with 40k original miles, of course I'll clean the motor and detail it out before installation.

I had a HF 2 ton shop crane when working on my '67 Mustang, and swore I'd never need it again and sold it~! lol Now I'm needing a shop crane again!

1)I read somewhere that the shop cranes don't go quite high enough for trucks like mine that sit so high, and was considering a 1 ton crane from HF, but thought about the gantry crane idea, but I'd have to make it myself to save some money, and to fit my 8' garage, and it has to be able to be taken down for storage. Just wondering what you guys/gals might do? Further note; my maxjax lift has been wonderful for taking some strain off of my body! The middle post is not in the photo as it's put off to the side~ first time I had moved it since installing it!

2)Another thing I'd like to do is make a smaller version of the same shop crane, but more minature in size just for lifting items say, less that 150lbs or so. Like I had a great difficulty removing the 230 6 cylinder head off of my truck and a smaller usable crane may had been nice~ I work alone most of the time and have to think! lol This also would have to be foldable for storage. Maybe someone on here has something like I'm thinking that I can fabricate~ I'm a good mig welderer! ; )

3) Another item I'm looking at is also from HF is the hydraulic rolling table/cart. about 160.oo I think. I think this may be a useful item. Just having to use brains over brawn these days!

This is just to open a line of thoughts and opinions of what this great site is known for! ; )
dne'

 

[gte718p]

Horrible freight crane works for me. I use it on my off road Toyota 42" tires and 15" of lift. On the longest setting it will lift my little 4banger over the radiator.

 

[Stephenw]

Many remove the radiator and front structure before pulling the engine. Then you don't need it to lift as high.

 

[Denee007]

I had a 2 ton HF the first time, it was a heavy beast, would a 1 ton be ok, or do I need to buy another 2 ton? I don't think I plan to install the motor ****** at the same time this time and that would take less height too.
The radiator will come out, but the front structure I don't think will come out. I'll take a better look today.

 

[ForceFed70]

Go with a 2 ton, especially if buying a lower quality HF crane. The longer you extend the "boom" the less you can lift, and you will need to extend to almost full length to pull a truck motor. I think my 2 ton is only rated at 500lbs when at full length.

Letting the air out of the front tires helps with the height issue.

 

[gte718p]

I use my one ton at max extension all the time. It's almost as long. As force pointed out it's not rated very high. It would however lift the front end of the truck off the ground without complaining. My axles and tire combo weighs more then 500 lb. That being said I realized it probably was not smart so I picked up the two ton to be safe.

Like all harbor freight stuff it needs a little tweaking. Throw away the crappy pins and get some quick hitch pins. Especially the ones for the leg extensions on the one ton. I started to deform the pins as they take a lot of load.
Good castors make the two ton beast much easier to move around. The castors cost as much as the crane, but made all the difference in the world. Still cheaper then buying the cheapest american profession type crane.

 

[George in Rancho Cordova]

The radiator support probably bolts to the truck frame at the bottom. The support also ties the fenders together.
Unbolting the radiator support from the frame, & unbolting the fenders from the cab should allow you to remove the "front clip" (minus the hood!) as a unit.

LMC Truck has very useful diagrams in their catalogs.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/ca/full.aspx?Page=81

 

[Denee007]

Ya'll rock! now what do you think about the fabrication of a smaller crane just for light work(150lbs or so), just a minature version of the larger lift? I've seen metal that may be appropriate at Home Depot or even ACE, or maybe find a steel distrubutor?

 

[Falcon67]

I use a 1 ton unit like the HF item. I haven't pulled from one of the trucks yet, but I don't doubt that it'll get it out. Use a lift plate on the carb pad and catch it with the hook on the beam and you should be good. On the race cars, I modified the radiator support to let the motors slide out the front with the radiator removed. It makes it 10x easier to pull or install the motor/trans.

You do NOt want to buy metal from the hardware store. Go to a metal supply (may also be a recycler) and you'll be shocked at how much you get ripped buying steel at a hardware store. I can usually buy 12' for what you can buy 3' of the same thing in the store. Note - joints come in 24' lengths and you can usually get one cut (like down to 12') for free. I bought 12' of 12 gauge 2x2 steel tube and 24' of 2x2 14 gauge tube when I built my mill stand - I think that was around $40, maybe.

 

[Fueler]

Ya'll rock! now what do you think about the fabrication of a smaller crane just for light work(150lbs or so), just a minature version of the larger lift? I've seen metal that may be appropriate at Home Depot or even ACE, or maybe find a steel distrubutor?

Along this vein, how about modifying one of those mini cranes they sell for the bed of a truck. Think HF has those also. Would be cool for lifting the block up to that table you were talking about.

About the big crane deal. Since you are not doing enough work weekly to warrant one, Do you really need one sitting around?
Got a buddy that can loan one for the removal, return it, then borrow it again later to do the install?

Plan accordingly so you don't have it longer than stated and return it immediately, cleaner than you found it. Makes the second borrow easier.

 

[justanengineer]

I always tell people, for common shop items like engine hoists, find an industrial, shop, farm, or estate auction/sale for a serious collector. Youre not looking for anything super rare. Various manufacturers have been making various styles of small shop cranes since the early 20th century and some have even been making the modern engine hoist style for 40+ years. Buy used, and buy the biggest one you can find. Likely you will spend less or the same, for a hoist that might be much better quality. Personally, Im not a fan of the smaller hoists regardless of COO. Small lifts = small wheels/casters, and unless your shop concrete is perfect, rolling them loaded can be painful.

 

[brownbagg]

take the front end off

 

[shannonw]

The hf 1 ton is 1/4 ton fully extended, 1/2 ton at the mid pin, 3/4, then 1 ton. I lift 460 ish lbs outboards like nothing on the 1/4 and 1/2 ton setting, i have no worries at the 1/4 ton, but for more than 500lbs i'd err on the side of caution, and outboards aren't as awkward to lift around anyways. At either the 1/4 or 1/2 ton setting (can't remember) the top of the bar is hitting the top of my 8 foot garage door iirc the last time i did it (i have to jack it pretty high to get it off the transom that's on a trailer), they have the extensions heights on the site.

on craigslist someone is always selling a shop crane, if they're selling it reasonably is an entirely different matter, usually not!

i second the metal supply, unless you're buying some small pieces, the markup is high. The steel supply in my area also has a 'seconds' area, where left overs from the cuts, slight bend,etc are sold much cheaper too.

 

[bgott]

There was a medical crane for sale on Houston craigslist in "tools" not too long ago. It looked something like this...http://www.wheelchairselect.com/Invacare-9805-INV1167.html . This one is rated for 450 pounds. Weld a little hand crank boat trailer winch on top so you can pick stuff up that is flat on the floor and you'd be good to go.

 

[Ign]

Ya'll rock! now what do you think about the fabrication of a smaller crane just for light work(150lbs or so), just a minature version of the larger lift? I've seen metal that may be appropriate at Home Depot or even ACE, or maybe find a steel distrubutor?

As stated, don't buy steel from the hardware store.

I was also thinking of the HF truck bed cranes. Really all you need is the hand crank cable winches - you don't need a hydraulic ram for a couple hundred pounds or less.

If you stumble upon a Vermeer or equivalent material lift on CL, these are the bomb. They do eat up a bit of floor space but they're VERY manueverable. Basically a forklift you push around in front of you. Very popular w HVAC outfits for positioning overhead ducting.

 

[Ign]

LMC Truck has very useful diagrams in their catalogs.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/ca/full.aspx?Page=81

You're banned! Oh wait, this isn't FTE. Never mind.

 

[Denee007]

Thank you bgott! I went to craigslist and found this manul 600lb rated hoyer lift for 75.oo, I should be able to make this work for odd and end things! I went ahead and bought a 2 ton HF crane, on sale for 169.oo - 20% more for 4th of July and also a 1000lb motor stand! I'm pretty much set except for an intake adapter plate to lift the chevy motor! ; ) I may do some modifications to the hoyer lift, but I'm excited about it!!
Thanks for all the help~ hope this helps others with ideas! ; )
dne'

 

[NUTTSGT]

Well you have the engine hoist now. I was going to advise against making a cheap one. I don't think you could buy the steel, casters and cylinder for less than what HF puts it on sale for, $99.

The intake adapter, the tool guys at swap meets always have those things. lol, but for some reason, I haven't bought one yet.

 

[Denee007]

my mini crane, and Max jax wall mount

Thank you Bgott! I've modified my hoyer lift and it's marvelous! This is really going to save my back and waiting around for someone to help me(most of the time)!!
I modified or fabricated a new extension with a smaller tube inside the larger to extend. I'm of course keeping in mind not to go beyond the center of gravity, but the main part of the unit is very heavy(60-70lbs) and makes for a good counter weight! I am going to buy some flat plate about 16"'s long to support the length like the HF lift. Tommorows project. And I will be buying more hose for my MJ and go overhead with the hose. I"m just so happy about this!! Thanks, hope this helps somebody like me with a squirrely back!!
dne'

 

[TheShrine]

I installed this last week. I'm finishing the rockscaping of The Shrine and it helps with my old back.

 

[930dreamer]

Glad you found something that'll work, this would be over kill but would solve most of my lifting issues. Must not remove from friends shop (closing) and haul to TX.

 

[bgott]

I'm glad I could help! Now you need to find a reversable motor to mount in place of the crank, battery powered, of course!

 

[Rentawrench]

Dee when you go to pull the drive train put the truck on the Maxi lift an remove the wheels an tires.

Then lower lift till just the beam an caster fit under the truck, also like said above take rad, rad support &fenders off this will be easyier to pull engine an the make the mods to fix the new one in .

No strain on back bending over those fenders. ( No dings an messed up paint too )

 

[Denee007]

The only thing I see that may interfere with this idea is that this truck has a beam running from one side to the other where my lift legs should go. It looks like I have just enough room to get my lift legs under as it is. another thing I was thinking was removing the leg casters off of my crane and that would drop it a few inches? Maybe put some hard plastic down so the metal won't get messed up? Then when the motor hopefully would be high enough, push the truck out from underneath it~ how's that sound?

Dee when you go to pull the drive train put the truck on the Maxi lift an remove the wheels an tires.

Then lower lift till just the beam an caster fit under the truck, also like said above take rad, rad support &fenders off this will be easyier to pull engine an the make the mods to fix the new one in .

No strain on back bending over those fenders. ( No dings an messed up paint too )

 

[Lotek]

The only thing I see that may interfere with this idea is that this truck has a beam running from one side to the other where my lift legs should go. It looks like I have just enough room to get my lift legs under as it is. another thing I was thinking was removing the leg casters off of my crane and that would drop it a few inches? Maybe put some hard plastic down so the metal won't get messed up? Then when the motor hopefully would be high enough, push the truck out from underneath it~ how's that sound?

I've done it that way pulling a big block out of my 75 when I didn't trust the stability of the cherry picker at full extension.