Opinions on these legs

[MikeH]

First of all, sorry, but this post is totally safe for work.
I am planning to build (unless I can find free or cheap first) a workbench for my garage. It has to be sturdy, but I'm not going to be doing anything REALLY heavy duty. Planning roughly 8' long, vise at one end, but mostly just an open work space where I can put whatever I'm working on.

I ran across these legs for sale, and wondered if I should buy them or if I was going to be disappointed and should just build from 4x4s from the get go. Also, if I use these, what do you recommend for a top? I don't think I'd trust just a sheet of plywood, but would that be adequate if reinforced with 2x4s? Laminated 2x4?

Please Advise me.
Please, question me.
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Mike

 

[Kaizen]

Man that went off the tracks fast lol.
Use several layers of 3/4 ply. Three is sufficient. Those legs should have a bar connecting them to keep bench from racking. If you can’t weld you can bolt some 2x6s somehow


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[Stuart in MN]

My workbenches have similar legs and they're very strong. If the price is right they'd be a good choice (Grainger sells them new for $65.00/pair). https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Flared-Leg-4TW39?

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Those legs should have a bar connecting them to keep bench from racking.

I'd pass. I've seen too many benches with those type of legs. Even ones that were braced. They all racked and the bench moved around a lot when you tried to do anything like sawing something in a vise or any other work that is "rhythmic".

Tommy

 

[atch]

What Tommy says is true; as far as it goes. I have four of those (I believe that they are identical to your pix) holding up my 8 foot (+/-) bench that my Atlas metal lathe is on.

1. I cut one piece of 3/4" plywood and attached it vertically to all four legs on the "inside". That in itself was done to prevent racking. Also there is a 3/4" plywood shelf attached to those bottom horizontal pieces. Sorry; I don't know the term for them. All plywood was attached with carriage bolts/washers/nuts.

2. It also is attached to every wall stud (16" on center). I didn't want stuff to fall between the bench and the wall; in case that one or both weren't perfectly straight; so I put a 2x4 backsplash on it. The bench top is made of 2x10 boards and is what folks refer to as "Hell for stout"; being held up by steel legs on 2 foot (+/-) centers. The backsplash is fastened to the benchtop with about a dozen 4" screws, and then the backsplash is attached to every stud with two 4" screws.

3. Based on what I said above I don't believe that my bench will ever have a failure due to racking. I also believe that it is plenty strong enough for just about any use that a bench could see. I can't say how much my lathe weighs but it's quite a strain on two grown men to pick it up. Of course we're not built like Travis Kelce. When I needed to move it by myself I used an engine hoist; there's no way I could lift that thing by myself. Also I believe that a lathe could be considered "rhythmic". I, however, have never felt any vibrations or movement when the lathe is running.

I'll attach 2 pix; one showing how the plywood was attached and then another after the top was cleaned/painted and the whole shootin' match was attached to the wall.

If such a bench weren't SOLIDLY attached to your wall then I'd agree with Tommy that racking could be problematic. Alternately I believe that having plywood in both the vertical and horizontal planes (as mine have) will successfully prevent racking.

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[nadogail]

I have a Hallowell (sp) bench with two legs like that with and 2" thick solid top, the legs have a heavy steel shelf running from one bottom stringer to the other. the bottom shelf has a 3" lip bent up and 4 steel drawers are hung from the underside of the top and a Steel riser across the back supports hardware cabinets and a plug mold. There is also a 6" wide horizontal brace mid way down, connecting the rear legs. It is "Built Like A Battleship." The bench was last moved in 1988, none of the fasteners holding it together are less than 3/8" Grade 5.

I acquired this bench in 1976 when the new Officer in Charge thought it was not presentable enough for the workshop it was located in. His orders were "get that thing out of here!". I said "Yes Sir" and had some guys help me to load it into my personal pickup truck. He was pleased, and I am proud to have been the caretaker of this wonderful bench for 44 years now.

I would dive under it for shelter if the occasion warranted.

 

[driftpin]

Get a piece of stainless steel sheet for the top, if you plan on doing a lot of mechanical work. Have it bent after you build the top.

 

[MikeH]

My workbenches have similar legs and they're very strong. If the price is right they'd be a good choice ]

I picked them up tonight: $20 for a set of 5, I think that counts as "price is right".

I'd pass. I've seen too many benches with those type of legs. Even ones that were braced. They all racked and the bench moved around a lot when you tried to do anything like sawing something in a vise or any other work that is "rhythmic".

Tommy

What Tommy says is true; as far as it goes. I have four of those (I believe that they are identical to your pix) holding up my 8 foot (+/-) bench that my Atlas metal lathe is on.

1. I cut one piece of 3/4" plywood and attached it vertically to all four legs on the "inside". That in itself was done to prevent racking. Also there is a 3/4" plywood shelf attached to those bottom horizontal pieces. Sorry; I don't know the term for them. All plywood was attached with carriage bolts/washers/nuts.

2. It also is attached to every wall stud (16" on center). I didn't want stuff to fall between the bench and the wall; in case that one or both weren't perfectly straight; so I put a 2x4 backsplash on it. The bench top is made of 2x10 boards and is what folks refer to as "Hell for stout"; being held up by steel legs on 2 foot (+/-) centers. The backsplash is fastened to the benchtop with about a dozen 4" screws, and then the backsplash is attached to every stud with two 4" screws.

3. Based on what I said above I don't believe that my bench will ever have a failure due to racking. I also believe that it is plenty strong enough for just about any use that a bench could see. I can't say how much my lathe weighs but it's quite a strain on two grown men to pick it up. Of course we're not built like Travis Kelce. When I needed to move it by myself I used an engine hoist; there's no way I could lift that thing by myself. Also I believe that a lathe could be considered "rhythmic". I, however, have never felt any vibrations or movement when the lathe is running.

I'll attach 2 pix; one showing how the plywood was attached and then another after the top was cleaned/painted and the whole shootin' match was attached to the wall.

If such a bench weren't SOLIDLY attached to your wall then I'd agree with Tommy that racking could be problematic. Alternately I believe that having plywood in both the vertical and horizontal planes (as mine have) will successfully prevent racking.

Mine will definitely not be supporting that much! good to know that with the proper assistance (like a wall) it could.

How needful do you think the wall attachment is? I fully intend to run bracing across the back, whether plywood or something like a 2x12. Do I really need to go all the way to a stud?

I have a Hallowell (sp) bench with two legs like that with and 2" thick solid top, the legs have a heavy steel shelf running from one bottom stringer to the other. the bottom shelf has a 3" lip bent up and 4 steel drawers are hung from the underside of the top and a Steel riser across the back supports hardware cabinets and a plug mold. There is also a 6" wide horizontal brace mid way down, connecting the rear legs. It is "Built Like A Battleship." The bench was last moved in 1988, none of the fasteners holding it together are less than 3/8" Grade 5.

I acquired this bench in 1976 when the new Officer in Charge thought it was not presentable enough for the workshop it was located in. His orders were "get that thing out of here!". I said "Yes Sir" and had some guys help me to load it into my personal pickup truck. He was pleased, and I am proud to have been the caretaker of this wonderful bench for 44 years now.

I would dive under it for shelter if the occasion warranted.

Get a piece of stainless steel sheet for the top, if you plan on doing a lot of mechanical work. Have it bent after you build the top.

I'll consider this, thanks.

 

[nadogail]

May the bench serve you for many years while you are enjoying good health.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I picked them up tonight: $20 for a set of 5, I think that counts as "price is right".

I lchecked the link I posted earlier to the similar legs on the Grainger website; theirs are rated for 6000 lb load capacity, so yours should be able to handle most whatever you put on them.

 

[atch]

I picked them up tonight: $20 for a set of 5, I think that counts as "price is right".

Mine will definitely not be supporting that much! good to know that with the proper assistance (like a wall) it could.

How needful do you think the wall attachment is? I fully intend to run bracing across the back, whether plywood or something like a 2x12. Do I really need to go all the way to a stud?

Yeah; I think that it qualifies for "price is right."

With plywood bracing across the back I think you'll probably be alright. HOWEVER, unless you foresee a need to move it around I highly recommend attaching to a wall. It's easy to do (I can think of at least a dozen easy ways to do so right off the top of my head) and will reduce the probability of racking to nearly negligible. And for an occasional move it won't take but a minute or two to "unattach" it from the wall.

 

[bherren]

I have a pair that came with a solid butcher block top and the previous owner had welded steel runners from leg to leg. I wanted an extra bench for my garage that I could put on casters and roll out in my driveway. It did not work out well for me so I have removed the butcher block top and used my grinder to disassemble the legs. I will re-use the butcher block top for the portable bench but have not done so yet. The legs have been thrown in the shed. Having said that.....if I were using it for a stationary bench and not doing much sawing or waling (as others already mentioned) I would have no issues with these legs. They just did not work for my intended purposes. You got an excellent price on them and should be able to construct a great looking and strong workbench. I hope you keep us posted.