Opinions on these Ulitech LEDS?

[Sasquatch912]

https://m.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-Pr...mon-4-ft-Actual-1-61-in-x-48-03-in/1000007666

Will these work good?

How many would be needed in a 30x30 area?

 

[bczygan]

Color temp is too yellow, need daylight.

1800 lumens is not much.

You need 108 of them.

 

[cybrdyke]

Sasquatch,
They're not very bright at only 1800 lumens, so you'd need to buy and then hang twice as many of them. Also, I'd expect them to be cheaper than 29.95, which is what they cost at my local Lowes. Utilitech is the lowest quality available.
The color is fine, but look for something that has around 3500 lumens. Then, depending on your ceiling height and color of your walls, you'll need 15-20 of them.
Good luck,
CD

 

[Oscardm]

I went with these from utilitech. I only used 2 in a 20x20 garage and they are plenty bright. I plan on adding a 3rd light on a separate circuit for the laundry area so that not all have to be on. This version is 3600 lumens.

https://m.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-Pro-Strip-Shop-Light-Common-4-ft-Actual-3-23-in-x-48-03-in/50352822

 

[Sasquatch912]

I went with these from utilitech. I only used 2 in a 20x20 garage and they are plenty bright. I plan on adding a 3rd light on a separate circuit for the laundry area so that not all have to be on. This version is 3600 lumens.

https://m.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-Pro-Strip-Shop-Light-Common-4-ft-Actual-3-23-in-x-48-03-in/50352822

Not bad. May get those then. Will 8 do?

 

[American Locomotive]

Less than 100 lumens/watt for LED is not all that great. Modern T8 Fluorescent systems can just about match that efficiency. 36,000 hour life span is absolutely horrible, and is arguably worse than pretty much any modern T8 fluorescent bulb as well. They don't list the CRI, so it's probably pretty bad.

I think you could do a lot better for the money than those fixtures. Those fixtures are hardly better than an equivalent, much cheaper electronic-ballast 32W T8 setup with modern bulbs (~3000 lumen, 85-90 CRI)

 

[Sasquatch912]

Less than 100 lumens/watt for LED is not all that great. Modern T8 Fluorescent systems can just about match that efficiency. 36,000 hour life span is absolutely horrible, and is arguably worse than pretty much any modern T8 fluorescent bulb as well. They don't list the CRI, so it's probably pretty bad.

I think you could do a lot better for the money than those fixtures. Those fixtures are hardly better than an equivalent, much cheaper electronic-ballast 32W T8 setup with modern bulbs (~3000 lumen, 85-90 CRI)

Which LED do you recommend then?

Ive seen people talking about the costco 4' ones

 

[bczygan]

What is your ceiling height?

How many FC do you want at a 3' work surface?

 

[fitz1015]

Not sure if there popular here but I have 4 of these up in my garage and there great. Lights of America 4' LED Shoplight

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Lights-of-America-4-LED-Shoplight/46808020

If you want I can try and get a photo of them on if you would like a little later.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[American Locomotive]

Which LED do you recommend then?

Ive seen people talking about the costco 4' ones

While I can't speak for the quality of the Lights of America LED lights posted by fitz1015, I can say on paper that they have better specs than the Utilitech ones.

112 lumens/watt, 86 CRI, 50,000 hour lifespan.

That's pretty respectable. Those Utilitech lights were basically marginally better than T8 fluorescents at a much higher cost.

 

[fitz1015]

Here is is some photos of the lights on. One photo is with only two lights on. The garage door covers two of the light when up but it shows how bright they are.

When I bought them 6 months ago my local Walmart had them on sell for 28 and for that price it was worth a shoot and I can can say so far I am happy with them.












Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[sunman76]

I have 16 of the double lights, 30x40 and they are about 13-15ft high. I am very pleased with the output of light.

 

[Sasquatch912]

I have 16 of the double lights, 30x40 and they are about 13-15ft high. I am very pleased with the output of light.

What brand are those?

 

[My Old Tools]

I have 16 of the double lights, 30x40 and they are about 13-15ft high. I am very pleased with the output of light.

Exactly what I have in my 30x40, Costco Feit brand.

 

[sunman76]

What brand are those?

got them from lowes, they put them on sale every once and while

Utilitech Pro Strip Shop Light (Common: 4-ft; Actual: 3.23-in x 48.03-in)
Item # 595685 Model # MXL2005-LED2X20K840

 

[nsula_country]

I went with these from utilitech. I only used 2 in a 20x20 garage and they are plenty bright. I plan on adding a 3rd light on a separate circuit for the laundry area so that not all have to be on. This version is 3600 lumens.

https://m.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-Pro-Strip-Shop-Light-Common-4-ft-Actual-3-23-in-x-48-03-in/50352822

You may be happy with 2 lights... The shadowing is horrible!

Need a few more to fill in and even the lighting out. Just my observation.

CT

 

[Sovereign-1]

I have the same ones as sunman & oscar. I like them so far even after only having only 2 of the 15 total powered. I wanted something flush mount to the ceiling, without pull chains, were hardwired and not horribly expensive. I avoided fluorescent fixtures because I don't want to deal with buzzing ballasts and slow winter warm-ups.
I can only home these last a long time because there is no easy way to replace any burnt out 'tubes'.

 

[ctgoodman]

I have 16 of the double lights, 30x40 and they are about 13-15ft high. I am very pleased with the output of light.

What app is this? Do you feel its fairly accurate?

 

[Sasquatch912]

Ok Im wiring up the shop soon and still deciding on shop lights...im still thinking the Feit lights

 

[StealthM8]

What app is this? Do you feel its fairly accurate?

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=uk.co.spacerocket.luxmeter

 

[JohnnyK81]

Nobody else is laughing at the "You need 108 of them", from the made up equation that I read so much about here? hah!

 

[cybrdyke]

Nobody else is laughing at the "You need 108 of them", from the made up equation that I read so much about here? hah!

I did. I just dont know how to laugh via my keyboard.
There's alot of misinformation here, as there is on any forum. Every so often, I try to be helpful and correct some of it, but unfortunately people usually take it very personally and get mad.
A couple of things that wont go away:

• Taking lamp lumens and dividing by square feet to determine light levels. If folks knew how absurd this is, they'd be embarrassed. Yet, it's rampant here.

• Thinking that lamp color and CRI have something to do with each other.

• Finding the cheapest PoS on the internet and then telling everyone about it like they just found gold.

It's not the un-knowing that get to me because how can you blame them?

CD

 

[nsula_country]

I did. I just dont know how to laugh via my keyboard.
There's alot of misinformation here, as there is on any forum. Every so often, I try to be helpful and correct some of it, but unfortunately people usually take it very personally and get mad.
A couple of things that wont go away:

• Taking lamp lumens and dividing by square feet to determine light levels. If folks knew how absurd this is, they'd be embarrassed. Yet, it's rampant here.

• Thinking that color and CRI have something to do with each other.

• Finding the cheapest PoS on the internet and then telling everyone about it like they just found gold.

It's not the un-knowing that get to me because how can you blame them?

CD

Then the ones that promote the PoS items flog me for using T8 high bays with quality HO ballasts and premium T8 lamps instead of Cosco LEDS.

There is a huge following on here promoting buying a functional strip light, gutting it, rewiring it, and using Chinese T8 LEDs. Instead of buying a QUALITY LED fixture. Lot of work just to say "I have LEDs in my garage".

At least I have 80-90 lumens, evenly, with no shadows.

CT

 

[Falcon67]

A bit apples to oranges, but I bought three boxes of Utilitech LED Edison base "60w" bulbs for use in our bathrooms early last year. All but about 3 bulbs (still in the box) have died in the last 12 months. I switched to buying any other brand, GE usually.

 

[American Locomotive]

Thinking that lamp color and CRI have something to do with each

They do, though. A 2000K HPS bulb is going to look completely different than a 2000K Incandescent or LED bulb. A 4100K 60 CRI Fluorescent is going to look significantly different than a 4100K 90 CRI Fluorescent. Low CRI fluorescent bulbs have a strong green tint to them, but the CCT still works out to 4100K

Here's a great video from Phillips on the subject

 

[JohnnyK81]

There is a huge following on here promoting buying a functional strip light, gutting it, rewiring it, and using Chinese T8 LEDs. Instead of buying a QUALITY LED fixture. Lot of work just to say "I have LEDs in my garage".



CT

Hey now, some of us are just on a budget! hah

(108 of them. I still can't get over that).

 

[Sasquatch912]

Well the Feit LEDs are $59.99 for two...i thought i saw good reviews on them

 

[cybrdyke]

They do, though.


Here's a great video from Phillips on the subject

No. They really dont.
The video, made by my friend Mark, talks about CCT and CRI. But nothing in it links the two. He showed you all red, all blue and all green. Each of those would obviously be very low CRI. Extreme examples. But we're talking about white fluorescents.
I'm sure you've seen fluorescent lamps with a green cast, which could be color shift from age, or a bad gas mix, or under driven, or a whole assortment of reasons. You can easily find blue ones and pink ones, too. But that's not an indication of low CRI or high CRI.
There are warm lamps (more toward red) that have high CRI or low CRI. There are cool lamps (more toward blue) that have high CRI or low CRI.

 

[nsula_country]

CRI in a fluorescent lamp is determined by the type and quality of the phosphor coating on the glass envelope. Tri-phosphor series 800 and Multi-phosphor series 900 have CRI of 85-98. Older series 600-700 halophosphate lamps had CRI if about 50-75 due to less efficient phosphors.

Phosphor composition also determines CCT. Though CCT dosen't determine CRI...

CT

 

[Bert_]

Then the ones that promote the PoS items flog me for using T8 high bays with quality HO ballasts and premium T8 lamps instead of Cosco LEDS.

There is a huge following on here promoting buying a functional strip light, gutting it, rewiring it, and using Chinese T8 LEDs. Instead of buying a QUALITY LED fixture. Lot of work just to say "I have LEDs in my garage".

At least I have 80-90 lumens, evenly, with no shadows.

CT

I will be waiting with a bag of popcorn when these people's "forever lights" start failing, and those who either bought a decent fluorescent or spent the money on a good LED, still have working lights for years after the POS stuff fails completely or gets so dim they are essentially EOL.

 

[Norcal]

A bit apples to oranges, but I bought three boxes of Utilitech LED Edison base "60w" bulbs for use in our bathrooms early last year. All but about 3 bulbs (still in the box) have died in the last 12 months. I switched to buying any other brand, GE usually.

Had the same luck, but only bought 2 lamps & they failed rather quickly but to Lowes credit they did refund my money. I avoid any Utilitech products.

 

[American Locomotive]

No. They really dont.
The video, made by my friend Mark, talks about CCT and CRI. But nothing in it links the two. He showed you all red, all blue and all green. Each of those would obviously be very low CRI. Extreme examples. But we're talking about white fluorescents.
I'm sure you've seen fluorescent lamps with a green cast, which could be color shift from age, or a bad gas mix, or under driven, or a whole assortment of reasons. You can easily find blue ones and pink ones, too. But that's not an indication of low CRI or high CRI.
There are warm lamps (more toward red) that have high CRI or low CRI. There are cool lamps (more toward blue) that have high CRI or low CRI.

I never said CCT and CRI are related. I said the apparent light color and CRI are related. A green cast from a fluorescent bulb (which all very low CRI fluorescents have) is directly related to the CRI. CRI is roughly a rating of how complete the bulb's output spectrum is. If the bulb is lacking in red & blue output (which low CRI fluorescent are), it's going to have a green cast. It's basic color-mixing and how our eyes work.

If you can find me a 60 CRI 4100k fluorescent bulb that doesn't have a green tint to its output, I'll eat my hat.

 

[Sasquatch912]

I will be waiting with a bag of popcorn when these people's "forever lights" start failing, and those who either bought a decent fluorescent or spent the money on a good LED, still have working lights for years after the POS stuff fails completely or gets so dim they are essentially EOL.

So the Feits arent good?

 

[Falcon67]

I will be waiting with a bag of popcorn when these people's "forever lights" start failing, and those who either bought a decent fluorescent or spent the money on a good LED, still have working lights for years after the POS stuff fails completely or gets so dim they are essentially EOL.

Well...I have several lights that have had no problems or repairs in the last 10 years. They are the el cheapo Lights of America "disposable" fixtures from Walmart. I also bought the low price Lithonia T8 fixtures from HD for the shop - $40/each for 8' four bulb. Since 2011, I have replaced only one ballast. I'm on my second box of 6500K brand name T8 bulbs over that period. I think it would be rather difficult to point at any particular fixture or bulb and say "that one is quality, that one isn't".

 

[Bert_]

So the Feits arent good?

I was making a general statement about cheap LED's. I would see if the manufacturer publishes the lifespan rating, in hours at L70. That last part is important, L70 is the point at which the fixture produces 70% of the lumens it made when new. That is generally considered end of life.
All LED's will gradually dim as they age, good ones will go 100,000 hours before reaching this point, others much less. I have seen some LED's list as little as 20,000 hours. Any middle of the road fluorescent lamp will last longer than that. There is also many manufacturers that will list a number of hours but no mention of the lumen maintenance at that rating, could be 50% or even less, it's not listed so who knows.

Bottom line is if you cannot find the the lifespan listed at L70, then I wouldn't buy it.

Well...I have several lights that have had no problems or repairs in the last 10 years. They are the el cheapo Lights of America "disposable" fixtures from Walmart. I also bought the low price Lithonia T8 fixtures from HD for the shop - $40/each for 8' four bulb. Since 2011, I have replaced only one ballast. I'm on my second box of 6500K brand name T8 bulbs over that period. I think it would be rather difficult to point at any particular fixture or bulb and say "that one is quality, that one isn't".

I'm glad you have had good luck with them. My experience with the "lights of america" fluorescent fixtures is somewhat limited, mostly to older F40T12 fixtures. What I have noticed is even when they do last you are lucky if the ballast delivers 20-25W to a 40W tube. I don't know if the same holds true for the t8 versions but I can only guess.

The strip lights are generally good fixtures as long as they have a name brand ballast in them, The "ching chang" brand ballasts do not seem to last long.

I'm not trying to get anyone to go buy the most expensive fixture you can find, I just try to get others to avoid the bottom of the barrel stuff.

 

[Sasquatch912]

I was making a general statement about cheap LED's. I would see if the manufacturer publishes the lifespan rating, in hours at L70. That last part is important, L70 is the point at which the fixture produces 70% of the lumens it made when new. That is generally considered end of life.
All LED's will gradually dim as they age, good ones will go 100,000 hours before reaching this point, others much less. I have seen some LED's list as little as 20,000 hours. Any middle of the road fluorescent lamp will last longer than that. There is also many manufacturers that will list a number of hours but no mention of the lumen maintenance at that rating, could be 50% or even less, it's not listed so who knows.

Bottom line is if you cannot find the the lifespan listed at L70, then I wouldn't buy it.





I'm glad you have had good luck with them. My experience with the "lights of america" fluorescent fixtures is somewhat limited, mostly to older F40T12 fixtures. What I have noticed is even when they do last you are lucky if the ballast delivers 20-25W to a 40W tube. I don't know if the same holds true for the t8 versions but I can only guess.

The strip lights are generally good fixtures as long as they have a name brand ballast in them, The "ching chang" brand ballasts do not seem to last long.

I'm not trying to get anyone to go buy the most expensive fixture you can find, I just try to get others to avoid the bottom of the barrel stuff.

says 50,000 hrs

https://m.costco.com/Feit-Electric-...ith-Pull-Chain,-2-pack.product.100284402.html

 

[nsula_country]

says 50,000 hrs

https://m.costco.com/Feit-Electric-...ith-Pull-Chain,-2-pack.product.100284402.html

Originally Posted by Bert_ View Post
I was making a general statement about cheap LED's. I would see if the manufacturer publishes the lifespan rating, in hours at L70. That last part is important, L70 is the point at which the fixture produces 70% of the lumens it made when new. That is generally considered end of life.
All LED's will gradually dim as they age, good ones will go 100,000 hours before reaching this point, others much less. I have seen some LED's list as little as 20,000 hours. Any middle of the road fluorescent lamp will last longer than that. There is also many manufacturers that will list a number of hours but no mention of the lumen maintenance at that rating, could be 50% or even less, it's not listed so who knows.

Bottom line is if you cannot find the the lifespan listed at L70, then I wouldn't buy it.



Think you missed the point... The light in the link says 50,000 hours. That it, just a claim of 50,000 hours. Not 50,000 at L70 or any other metric of mean time to failure. I'd pass.

I can sell a cat turd and say it will stink for 50,000 hours. If it quits stinking at 10,000 hours, im off the hook because other than a claim, there are not metrics proving it will stink for 50,000 hours. They you are stuck with a faulty cat turd.

CT

 

[Bert_]

says 50,000 hrs

https://m.costco.com/Feit-Electric-...ith-Pull-Chain,-2-pack.product.100284402.html

Just saying 50,000 hrs does not tell the whole story. If you read my post above you may have noticed my comment about reputable manufacturers listing lifespan at L70. L70 is when a fixture/lamp is 70% as bright as it was when new. That point is generally considered end of life even though the light may still work.

If that 50,000 hours has no lumen maintenance info with it then the manufacturer could be saying it will still be working at 50,000 hours but what they aren't telling you is it may only produce 30% the light it did when new. I would guess there is a reason they do not publish that number, it's probably really bad, maybe not 30% but you don't know.

There is a fact many people do not seem to realize, LED's WILL dim with age. How fast that happens generally depends on how hard the individual LED's are driven. And the quality of the chips themselves.
Cheap fixtures use cheap LED's and drive them hard. That equates to a fixture that will dim fairly quickly, even if they do not fail completely first.

 

[matt_i]

It might be worthy of a thread comparing/studying the various LED tube-style fixtures available. I commonly see that the Costco/feit/samsclub/~$30-ish bottom price point is a PoS but I've never seen any thread or study of say a fixture sold at $60 but has 10x the life.

One problem is if a light has a 50k hour rating, if a population of them is lit 24x365 its still 5+ years before a manufacturer trying to validate their product can start analyzing the statistics for their product....there may be ways to accelerate the testing I'm sure.

Are there recommendations for "industrial" products sold at say the $60 and $100-120 price points, roughly 2x and 4x the cost that are cadillacs and the statistics say won't have to be touched for ~20 years?

If the 50k hours is close to true, even if I burned my lights 40 hours per week (very conservative, its probably half of that at max useage) it would be 2000 hrs/year and to cross 50k would be 25 years from now...I feel like the maturation of this technology will be better by then and something cheaper/better will be available.

Just an alternative thought process, not trying to poke anyone in the eye.

 

[trashmanssd]

I put the exact fixture that the OP listed in my closet to replace a 15 year old 4' CFL and it works well there. In a garage I am sure it would be "ok" for 90% of america, but this is garage journal we are all nuts. My guess (complete guess) is that 16 - 20 of those or almost any decent light spaced out well will give you decent lighting (but like I said we are nuts and want it as bright as the sun in side). You can have as much light as you want over head when you are under a car working you will still most likely want a work light as you will most likely be in a shadow. I actually find to much over head lighting can make it worse some times as your pupils dilate to that amount of light and have a very hard time seeing into tight spaces under hood or under the car. i think the biggest thing in lighting is getting the evenest distribution of what ever amount of light you have.