Opinions on two different wall construction options

[Splinter]

I'm going to be putting up a full height wall to "partition" off a dedicated storage area in the shed. The speedbump that I am at is how long to make the wall.

Option A is what I would prefer in order to cheat a few more feet of open floor space, but Option B (being able to tie into the next truss) seems more "sensible" for stability reasons, especially since it may or may not get some shelves on it.

Opinions?

Also, a friend of mine suggested ramsetting the base of the wall into the floor, I said that I was going to bolt it (especially if I go with the shorter wall) what do you guys think? He said that bolting it in would be overkill. I said there is no such thing

 

[sharpe427]

Option A would be stable as long as the distances aren't too extreme and the best use of floorspace. The body of the wall adds rigidity, just needs the truss to keep in upright. And you are so right...no such thing as 'overkill'.

 

[kbs2244]

You could take your header all the way as in B, but only use use it as in A.

 

[Muttly]

A diagonal kicker from point A back to the truss would stiffen it up, or put blocking between the two trusses to catch the end of the wall.

Any wall that may get removed should not be ram set, as the concrete will spall out, bolting is one option, lags in lead works great or two 16p nails driven into a 1/4" hole works pretty good.

 

[Wardster]

Option A would be fine especially if you beefed up your connection to the truss. If you are going to add shelves, then it would be a good idea to use 2x6's to reduce the amount of bending vs 2x4's. With respect to the connection to the floor, if the potential is there to move it, then follow the advice of Muttly and use 16 penny nails. I would use double-headed nails to aid in removal. If you envision a more permanent fixture, then secure it in place using bolts (Red Heads).

-Wardster

 

[Splinter]

extending the header to B or putting the kicker in there are definitely good options that I had not thought of, thanks guys.

This building will be up for a long time, and the areas are pretty much "set" in my mind, but with age comes new ideas, so maybe big lags aren't the best setup. The 16 pennys or http://www.smithfast.com/redibolt.htm sound a little less invasive than I had pictured.

thanks again guys.

 

[IHI]

Very easy if wanting to terminate between teh ceiling joists/rafters and also set yourself up for futre ceiling finish nailer wise:

You must use a pressure treated bottom plate...any wood contacting concrete nees to be treated since it'll be in contact with moisture. As far as fastening it, KISS. Tapcons, some 3/16"x3 or 3 1/4" hex heads will do ya just fine, I like to space them 24" o.c. since it's not going anywhere, then if you do chose to pull out, use a ratchet/drill with socket adapter and back them out...or a screw driver bit if you use the phillips heads...but i recommend the hex heads from experience.

As for the ceiling if terminating at B-so simple your gonna wanna slap your wife LOL!!

Run some 2x4/6/8's whatever the width of the ceiling joist/bottom cord is from truss A to truss B, i would install them 12" off center in both directions. Then once you hve the two fillers installed, find out where you want the wall to terminate and run a 2x6 from one filler to the other, splitting the 2x6 at the end of your wall so when you go to install ceiling sheetrock, you will have solid material to screw to all the way around the end of the wall.

very fast, simple, strong way to do it and used daily in construction

 

[Kevin54]

Go up in the attic, add a filler between the cord where needed, then fasten the top of the wall to that. No more than what you are going out past, the first rafter would be solid enough to hold the end of the wall.

 

[Splinter]

thanks for the ideas guys :thankyou:

I'll make sure to post up what I end up doing once I get there. I'd like to do it soon so I can finish "moving in:

 

[Splinter]

wow 3 months later and I'm finally getting back to doing this this weekend

picked up some 1/2" x 4" redibolts, 1-1/2" for the base plate, 2-1/2" into the concrete floor should hold it, eh?

I'm excited. Just one wall is totally going to change this shop.

 

[Kevin54]

picked up some 1/2" x 4" redibolts, 1-1/2" for the base plate, 2-1/2" into the concrete floor should hold it, eh?

More than adequate. All you need to do is keep the wall from shifting. The wall will be wedged between the floor and the ceiling so you will not have rise. I put mine in with the power nails that uses 22 blanks and haad a door on it. I never had any problem with shifting. What you want to use is a treated 2x bottom plate though. That way any moisture will not hurt it. By the time you read this, you'll probably have it done though. It doesn't take long.