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Optimal coating for tinted concrete floor?

MFGJR

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Feb 13, 2013
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32
Guys,

My 24’ X 24’ multi-purpose garage is under construction, and I’m looking for input on the best product—or products in combination--to protect the tinted concrete floor. The garage will be used for general maintenance and light repairs on the daily drivers and the track car, and for restoration and maintenance on the old boats that seem to be attracted to us these days.

The garage forms part of a courtyard surrounding the pool and has two pairs of doors that open directly onto the pool deck, so the garage will be handy covered space when hordes of family and friends invade our little riverfront haven. (This entertaining angle was key in the garage sales pitch to the Missus, and one of the drivers for a good looking floor.) The primary reason we went with the tinted garage floor was for continuity with the adjoining concrete pool deck. The concrete everywhere is sandstone-colored, but where the pool deck will be a brushed finish the garage floor was power-trowelled smooth. Here are a couple shots--the interior finish work is just starting, and we're waiting on warmer weather so we can pour the pool deck:

Floor.jpg garage.jpg

I’ve spent a good bit of time here on the Flooring sub-forum, but I’m having a hard time weighing the various trade-offs among different products and could use advice from those who have some experience. I’ve listed my priorities below, realizing that I can’t have everything and will have to draw a line somewhere in the middle of the list. Also, I’m not opposed to having a professional do the work.

So, with my uses and goals, what’s the best direction to pursue? And, what prep work needs to happen prior to application? In addition to specific product names, I’d very much appreciate knowing what type of product it is so I can talk intelligently with potential installers.

Here are the priorities, in order of importance:
1. Be essentially clear.
2. Prevent oils, gasoline and solvents (e.g., brake cleaner or Maker’s Mark) from staining the concrete or damaging the top coat.
3. Be fairly tough--the driveway is gravel and sand and those will come in on the car and trailer tires. Also, while I’ll have a lift I’ll still occasionally use a floor jack and stands. No welding is likely to happen in the garage, though, nor will I be regularly dragging heavy things around on the floor.
4. Be highly UV resistant. The floor near those doors will get modest and regular sun exposure.
5. Be not susceptible to permanent tire-marking.
6. Be able to incorporate an anti-slip additive.
7. Have a satin or matte finish.
8. Could be touched up in the event of a major mishap.

Thanks for your help!
 
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LegacyIndustrial

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1. Be essentially clear.- POLYASPARTIC is the clearest of the really tough options.
2. Prevent oils, gasoline and solvents (e.g., brake cleaner or Maker’s Mark) from staining the concrete or damaging the top coat.- POLYASPARTIC or epoxy/urethane
3. Be fairly tough--the driveway is gravel and sand and those will come in on the car and trailer tires. Also, while I’ll have a lift I’ll still occasionally use a floor jack and stands. No welding is likely to happen in the garage, though, nor will I be regularly dragging heavy things around on the floor. NO GO- GRAVEL AND SAND WILL EAT THE FLOOR UP IN A HURRY. Lay down rubber mats where tires enter.
4. Be highly UV resistant. The floor near those doors will get modest and regular sun exposure. POLYASPARTIC- Sun all day without issues.
5. Be not susceptible to permanent tire-marking. POLYASPARTIC
6. Be able to incorporate an anti-slip additive. POLYASPARTIC
7. Have a satin or matte finish. POLYASPARTIC with extra fine anti-skid, 4 0z. per gal. Will matte it a little.
8. Could be touched up in the event of a major mishap. All coatings can be repaired but only a full re-coat will look perfect.

Prep will be a thorough acid etch or a grind (diamabrush is a good way to do it).
Keep in mind that most rentable grinders will leave marks, swirls. etc...

You will need 2 or 3 coats min as polyaspartic sealers are thin.

If you go this route, be sure to go "Slow Cure" version so you have time to spare and don't have to rush through it. Only mix one gal at a time.

Lastly, most clear sealers will darken the concrete a fair amount. The color will pop.
 
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MFGJR

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Feb 13, 2013
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Scotty,

Thanks for the very thorough reply--was hoping you'd weigh in. Polyaspartic seems to be the ticket, with the exception of dealing with my abrasives-laden driveway. (Can't pave that, dealing with and storing mats will be a problem... guess I'll need to be very diligent about brushing off the tires as I roll a car or trailer in.) A few questions:

1. The floor is new (well, poured about 90 days ago), and while a bit dirty from construction, it's virgin--how do I determine whether etching is OK or if it needs to be ground?

2. Assuming 3+ coats will go down, what percentage solids do I want?

3. DIY or best left to a pro?

4. Thanks for the tip re: intensifying the color. Was planning on an annual application of a box store penetrating sealer on the pool deck--would you expect a reasonably similar effect between that and the polyaspartic?

Thanks again,

Frank
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Frank:

I prefer a grind but some people can't deal with swirls or marks.
Either is fine if done properly.

This is a one and done application barring any issues with sand or debris from your drive, could be recoated down the road without too much issue.

80 percent solids, slow cure.

Until we released our slow cure I would not recommend DIY. Now I recommend it all the time depending on the application.
 

jonathan75

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Seems like a tight corner to turn your car onto the lift. Sorry to go off topic but I am curious about the dimensions.

Edit: Oh wait is that a track I see on the ceiling? I just noticed that there may be a overhead door on the side.
 
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MFGJR

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Seems like a tight corner to turn your car onto the lift. Sorry to go off topic but I am curious about the dimensions.

Edit: Oh wait is that a track I see on the ceiling? I just noticed that there may be a overhead door on the side.

Jonathan--yes, you figured it out. You're looking at the man doors out to the pool, and the overhead door is to my right on the interior shot and left on the exterior. Might have been able to handbrake-turn my old Mini onto the lift through those side doors!
 
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LegacyIndustrial

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Scotty,

What's the pot life of the slow cure 80% solids that you are recommending?

Mix for 2-3 minutes, work from bucket dip and roll in a deliberate fashion, 17-20 mins.

If you mix one gallon at a time and have another person cutting in as you roll, there is no issue.
 

rburke65

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What is "that a track I see in the ceiling"? What am I looking at there in your ceiling? What is a track? Thanks.
 
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MFGJR

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What is "that a track I see in the ceiling"? What am I looking at there in your ceiling? What is a track? Thanks.

A few things going on up there at the ceiling. There are of course the tracks for the overhead door, plus an I-beam running longitudinally down the center that I'll use for hoisting my little Boston Whaler for hull maintenance, or to hoist an outboard or a car engine. (Max live load 2,000 lbs., structural engineer certified). And, since the living space above mandates a fire-rated ceiling in the garage, the perforations for the 24 recessed light fixtures need a fire-resistant solution. Rather than building 24 separate gypsum board enclosures, we simply lined the rafter bays getting lights.
 
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djm999

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Mix for 2-3 minutes, work from bucket dip and roll in a deliberate fashion, 17-20 mins.

If you mix one gallon at a time and have another person cutting in as you roll, there is no issue.

Scotty,

I am confused (not that unusual). Your tech sheet on the 80's solid polyaspartic says a pot life of 25 to 30 minutes. Wouldn't the slow cure be longer than that?
 
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MFGJR

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Be fairly tough--the driveway is gravel and sand and those will come in on the car and trailer tires. NO GO- GRAVEL AND SAND WILL EAT THE FLOOR UP IN A HURRY.

I'm starting to re-think what I do here... I'd like a nice looking floor, but if nothing will hold up well to the driveway's abrasives, and knowing that we won't reliably be diligent about cleaning tires before rolling into the garage, and if worn spots can't be aesthetically repaired, does the spend on a high-dollar coating really make any sense?

My single biggest worry is oil stains. I'm pretty diligent about cleaning up spills when I'm working, but on my last floor (which wasn't sealed or coated) even a short time on the floor left a stain. And, once in a while a car will drip a bit before I can find and fix it. What would you guys do if this was your floor? Could a good penetrating sealer, reapplied regularly, at least give me protection from oil stains?
 

LegacyIndustrial

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if the concrete comes in contact with the stain creator (oil) it will leave a stain.
A penetrative sealer will lessen the stain but it will still stain.

Only a topical sealer will truly block the stain.


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