options for concrete block walls??

[slapshot]

Howdy all, I'm a newbie to the site and I'm justing starting a garage rehab. project. This is not an unlimited budget project, I'm looking at no more than $5k. I've run into a dilema already. My garage has concrete block walls. Overall, my plans are to hang cabinets, shelves, etc on the wall. The previous owner had installed a shower and toilet in the garage (common in FL back in the 60's). I just removed the block walls, shower, and toilet to get the extra space. My plans are to relocate my hot water heater and chest freezer to the corner where this bathroom was so get them out of the way and optimize my floor space for the Vette and bike.

The problem....the back wall of the bathroom had stucco on it. Some of it came off easily, but about 75% is still there and it looks like ****. I have never done any stucco or sheetrock/dry wall work. What are some options I have here?? I don't just want to paint over it and have it look cheap. I know I can use toggle bolts or concrete anchors to hang things in the block. But I am looking at cosmetic options here. How much of a job is it to apply stucco to a painted (flat white) concrete block wall?? I think dry wall may be a bit much and expensive option.

I am probably going to have to break out a block or 2 to cap the shower controls since I can't find any way to plug the existing hot and cold water valves.

This project looks to be a pain in the rear because the house is 40+ years old. Nothing seems to be standard sized and some things are installed oddly, but the structure is rock solid.

My plans are to start with the ceiling. I'll be filling some old holes, removing unused wiring, etc from previous garage door openers, door bells, etc, repainting the entire thing, and lastly installing new lighting.

ANY ideas, advice, recommendations are GREATLY appreciated.

 

[jermar]

I can tell you: my garage also has gray block walls. It made a big difference in the appearance, especially in the amount of light reflected. Brightened up the whole garage.

 

[BetterDays]

Keep the shower and sink, saves wear and tear on the house (if you are going to be working and getting dirty in the garage.

 

[TOMWELDS]

2X4 stud a wall and 5/8" sheetrock? It'll save a lot of time in the longrun. And you can hang all your stuff.

 

[Coach James]

I wish I had a sink and shower in my garage. A sink would make cleaning things a lot easier.

Putting up stucco is not a real difficult thing to do.

 

[rjspitz]

I would recommend you keep the plumbing and install a deep utility sink. Put up a wall made of 2x2's or 2x4's with insulation and drywall. It's not as expensive as you think. I finished my GF's father's 2 1/2 car garage for under $500, excluding lumber. I can't imagine spending more than $1000, including insulation, if you do it yourself.

I'd also recommend installing 2 water spickets (one hot, one cold), so that you can wash the vette and bike in the dead of winter with warm water without freezing your hands. Hot water is also good for removing wax from the car.

Don't know about this, but can you power-wash the concrete walls to remove the stucco, then paint? I've always liked the industrial look of concrete walls, especially in a garage. Throw in some bare aluminum shelving and racks and it'll look sharp.

 

[slapshot]

The shower and sink are already removed. We already have plumbing for a deep tub sink, which also is being replaced.

How much of a job is it to attach the 2x4's to the concrete?? Maybe I can find somebody at work that has a air nail gun

My only hesitation with drywall is having to seal/tape/mud the seams.....but, then I could use the 2x4's to mount everything on.

I don't have a drain in the garage, so washing isn't possible. Not to mention, winter in Florida is a joke. I wash the Vette about 6 times a year, if that. The Vrod never gets washed. The Vette isn't a daily driver, only about 2-3k miles a year, if that.

Thanks much for the replies.....great ideas so far.....I'll consider them all

 

[plepper]

Use 1/4" expanding pin plastic or metal to attatch furing strips to the masonry and hang the drywall or whatever off the furing strips

 

[rjspitz]

How much of a job is it to attach the 2x4's to the concrete?? Maybe I can find somebody at work that has a air nail gun

My only hesitation with drywall is having to seal/tape/mud the seams.....but, then I could use the 2x4's to mount everything on.

You don't need to mount the 2x4's to the concrete walls. Just put it up like a regular wall. Attach the header to the ceiling and footer to the floor. leave a 1/4"-1/2" gap between the concrete and 2x4's.
Not sure about cost, but they make drywall with a vinyl laminate on one side. You use fillers between each sheet. A lot of public restrooms use this material. If it's cost effective, this could be an option, this way you won't have to worry about taping and mudding the joints.

 

[slapshot]

Gotchya, I'll look into that......

 

[slapshot]

OK, bear with me, I'm trying to think way back to my construction days...

to frame the walls....2x4's go 16" on center right??

Is there any drawback to placing the 2x4's lengthwise facing the wall (so the top and bottom face in and out instead of the sides)???

Reason being, all of the doors are installed and set to the concrete walls. If I go and frame a wall that extends some 4-5" from the wall, the door openings will look like a mini hallway. Not to mention, I'm losing about 10" or so of floorspace.

A drawback to this will be routing the water pipes to the hot water heater through the wall will be a bit more challenging.

I could frame 1 wall with no door/windows with standard placement of 2x4's and then frame the other 2 walls like I've tried to explain.

I'm trying to get a basic plan so I can work on it early next week on my days off.

Thanks for the help!!

 

[Jay H 237]

Turning them the other way would be ok since the wall won't be structual. That's what the cinder block wall is for. You're basically attaching nailers to hang drywall.

The downside is with them turned the other way the plumbing may not fit and if it does drilling holes through the narrow side of the boards won't leave much meat left.

 

[bmwpower]

Are you talking about laying the 2x4 on their flat sides against the block wall? Having trouble following you...

 

[bmwpower]

Sounds like you are thinking of placing them flat against the wall. I would advise against that for the reasons listed. Also, don't forget that you won't be able to run electric with the 2x4's this way since the boxes will not fit. You're only saving 2" versus installing the 2x4's the normal way.

 

[rotus7]

You might consider the cost of lumber, drywall, mudding/supplies, and paint could go along way in paying a mason to fix/finish your walls for you and it would probably be done in a day or two versus a week +.

 

[rjspitz]

If you are concerned about the width of the wall, you can get 1x2 and use them as firring strips, as stated earlier. Mount these directly to the concrete with 'liquid nails' and cut nails and attach the drywall to it. Problem here is that you lose the ability to run electrical as you would in a normal wall. If you don't mind the look, you could run conduit on the outside of the wall, but that would be hideous, not to mention the added work of bending the conduit and chasing cable. Cost wise, it would probably work out the same, since you are saving money in the lumber department. Another problem is that you would get a lot of bows in the wall, since concrete block walls are generaly not perfectly straight/flat.

I suggest you use 2X3 lumber. I'll cost less in the longrun, and you'll save about 2" in the room diameter. And you'll still have room for wiring and boxes.

Yes, 16" on center. You could go 24" on center since the wall is not structural, but then you would have a lot of wall flex between studs. Just remember, the wider the distance between studs, the thicker the drywall has to be. 16" on center is good for 9/16" drywall. Stay away from anything less than 9/16" drywall.

Forgot to mention, if you choose 24" centers, you could do a staggerd H pattern for extra stability, and save a little bit of lumber. See attached.

 

[trovato]

I have to cast my vote with rotus7 on this. All this framing and sheetrock seems like a lot of work. I'd go with having a mason clean up what you've got. At least get a price estimate.

 

[slapshot]

Well, one of the main reasons I wanted to drywall it was to hide the pipes, add on electric stuff that is already there. I want to clean up the walls and update the look. My plan was to run new outlets, switches, water pipes, etc in the wall. Personally, I don't care for the concrete block wall look. We are doing many other upgrades on the house to update the look. The house was built in 1959 and is a rock solid house, it just needs to be cosmetically updated.

 

[JohnHenrys48]

Hey slapshot, if you decide to go with the furring and dry wall, this site might give you and idea of the effort required: ( you might have to wade through some ads to get to the info)

http://www.homestore.com/HomeGarden...O_FurringOverMasonryPlaster.asp?poe=homestore

 

[slapshot]

Thanks JohnHenrys48, that cleared up some fastener questions I had.

I'm still trying to decide which route I want to take with this project.

 

[rjspitz]

So... what's the verdict? Which route did/will you choose?

 

[slapshot]

Well, after looking at all my options, I decided to stick with the concrete blocks and not drywall any of it. I going to stick with a classic, old school looking garage.

I've been working on it on my days off for the past 2 weeks. Here's my progress so far...

**installed three 48" T8 light strips (what a difference!!!!!)
**removed all old shelving, ect from one wall, filled the holes, and painted it.
**broke out some concrete and cut the shower valves out and capped them
**ran all of the wiring for 4 new outlets, I have 2 installed so far.
**installed 2 new entry doors, from outside into garage and garage into house
**painted the entire ceiling
**rerouted and reattached the wires for the garage door opener and other wiring

I've got alot done, but still have alot to do still. I'm still deciding what flooring to use. I'm leaning towards Race Deck type tiles. Trying to decide on colors too. Hoping to wrap it up in the next 2-3 weeks, theres LOTS of other house projects waiting.

 

[rjspitz]

Great!!! Not going with the drywall will save you $$$ to spend on other parts of the garage. Good decision.

 

[slapshot]

Yes, it will sure leave me extra money for other things. I just ordered graphite Race deck tiles with a red border today, they should be here in 10 days or so.

I got another wall almost ready for paint today. I need to concrete in a couple of spots next week, but the end is in sight finally. I'm going to get everything done before I lay the Race deck down, so I need to get busy on my 3 days off next week.

I will post an after pic....I wish I had taken a before pic, the difference will be amazing and is already noticeable.

I have found demolition to be very therapuetic. Not to mention, using power tools is one of the coolest things to do, but that is common knowledge