Options for leveling the garage floor

[stioc]

If I put a 4-ft long 2x4 piece of wood on the garage floor it see-saws about 3/8" to 1/2" right in the middle of the garage floor. The garage was build in the early 70s and isn't post tensioned from what I was told. While normally this would be acceptable to me but I can't install my mid-rise lift since it'll bend and possibly pull the welds etc.

What are my inexpensive options for fixing it? Should I get some tile cement and lay it on top of the existing floor? Cut it out and try to relevel it? Should I seek professional help or something I can fix myself? How much would something like this cost if I went the contractor route?

 

[Lyaec350]

I guess the first question I have (you're probably already checked this) is whether or not the 2x4 is actually straight. A long level or some other more accurate measuring device is probably worthwhile before undergoing garage floor modifications.

Next step... can you just shim the lift post with a piece of 3/8" steel cut to the same size as the lift post pad and holes drilled in the appropriate place?

 

[stioc]

I checked it with my 4ft aluminum level too, same thing

I have no idea how much 3/8" steel plate would cost or if I use flat steel strips I may need 3/8" in some spots and 1/8" in others...the ramps are approx 4'x15" each at least.

I was thinking self-leveling compound or thin-set concrete but it would look bad if I just poured it in sections right on top of the existing concrete. I'd prefer to break the concrete and then pour thin-set but I have no clue how to remove just 1/4 to 3/8" of existing concrete.

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[rsanter]

how about a concrete grinder to level/flatten the area where the lift will be?

if you were to then do a light grind on the remainder of the floor and then apply a sealer, you will have an awsome looking floor that will look a bit like terrazo

bob

 

[5wndwcpe]

how about a concrete grinder to level/flatten the area where the lift will be?

if you were to then do a light grind on the remainder of the floor and then apply a sealer, you will have an awsome looking floor that will look a bit like terrazo

bob

This, I think, is a better idea than thinset. Any topping that thin is going to crack over time, bar none.

 

[stioc]

I thought about grinding it but can the grinders take off 3/8" or more? and if so how thick are the top coats, will I end up with rough concrete under the smooth top floor at that point?

 

[rsanter]

several passes with a grinder will take 3/8 with no trouble

bob

 

[Printer Mike]

several passes with a grinder will take 3/8 with no trouble

bob

I have a similar problem with my boathouse floor. This is music to my ears!

 

[kbs2244]

Shim the bottom of the lift legs.
1/8 inch plate cut and drilled to match the feet of the posts.

 

[gbcamp72]

Raceshops make perfectly flat reference plates using epoxy coatings mixed from solids. they then level perfectly and the shops use that to setup and scale the cars. Try google

My quess is that this soulution would be more expensive than the grinding mentioned above.

 

[stioc]

kbs2244, this is not a 2 or 4 post lift. It's a mid-rise lift with a 4-ft long base.

 

[Pritch]

Diamond cups work well, and they are not tooooo expensive. They go on a regular grinder, there are various sizes.

http://www.toolbarn.com/product/bosch/DC510/?ref=base

Only drawback is-it's a full on mess. Most are designed to work dry, but that is more dust than you can imagine, we normally run a small stream of water to keep the dust down, but then you are operating an electric tool that is getting wet. I've seen some guys rig up a coffee can kinda thing to the grinder and then a shop vac to that and it works pretty good.

 

[kbs2244]

Ouch.
Do you move it around?
Easiest would still be to shim the feet.
But you would have to paint targets on the floor so you get it into the same place every time.
Otherwise you will have to level the floor.
But, like he said, that is a real mess.