Options for restoring cast table saw top? (pics)

[urbanG33K]

Hi everyone.

I've got a craftsman table saw I'm about to restore/mod with a new fence.

I have never had a table saw of my own before. I picked this up from my aged uncle. This was his shop saw when he was an avid wood working hobbyist.

Part of the project will be removing the cast iron top and both top extensions to restore their finish.

There is a lot of tarnishing on the surface and some light to moderate rusting.

The table top is pretty rough to the touch even in area's where their is no rust.

Given that I don't have a lot of experience with table saws I have a few questions:

If I had to guess I feel like this saw top never have had a shiny smooth finish on it to begin with. Were table saw's sold with different finishes on the top surfaces of the saw?

I was thinking electrolysis to remove the rust. Would this be counter productive for cast? Would it rust in the washing soda/water solution faster than it would clean up?

Would I be better off submersing it in CLR for a while?

Is there a better way to go about this?

I feel like even if I remove the rust the top isn't going to be shiny smooth anyways. Should I take it to a shop to have the top resurfaced? Would that be cost prohibitive?


EDIT: here is a thread with pics of the saw: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=296658

 

[drivesitfar]

Re: Electrolysis for cast table saw top?

Urban: we do electrolysis on our old cast iron vises all the time so either get a tub big enough or I guess you could do 1/2 at a time. it will flash rust quick if you don't get it washed up and put some BLO (boiled linseed oil) or wax or WD 40 even works to hold the rust off. BLO you can actually paint over if you want to. here's a link to a thread the member's made about electrolysis that should answer most of your questions. if you still have any just ask on that thread.

good luck

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237752&highlight=homemade+electrolysis

also if you are able post up pictures of your table saw so others can give you better answers by looking at your saw.

 

[urbanG33K]

Re: Electrolysis for cast table saw top?

Thanks for replying Drivesitfar

I do have a tub big enough to submerge the whole top. I just bought one for this purpose the other day.

Here are some pics of the saw:

 

[urbanG33K]

Re: Electrolysis for cast table saw top?

Another option:

I have a media blasting tank/kit for my air compressor. I've never used it yet and would have to assemble it. Would sand blasting it be a better option?



Do you think it's possible to achieve these kind of results:

 

[TomB19]

Re: Electrolysis for cast table saw top?

IMO, you don't need electrolysis for that saw.

Get a scratch pad and use a hook and loop random orbit sander (like for wood working), just set on the scratch pad, and a little WD40... and it should come out shining exactly like brand new. Better, in fact.

From there, degrease it and then use a little Boshield to lubricate, seal, and prevent further rust.

That saw appears to be in good shape.

 

[lilredex]

Re: Electrolysis for cast table saw top?

If that were my saw, I'd clean up those flat surfaces with wet/dry sandpaper backed up with a block, lubricated with oil. Clean up that rust with a wire brush on a grinder. The saw is not that bad, looking at that link you show......or, just use it the way it is.

 

[urbanG33K]

Thanks for some replies guys. I'm gonna try the orbital sanding on one of the leafs and see where it gets me.

 

[TomB19]

I suggest trying less aggressive methods first.

That saw doesn't appear to be even close to needing restoration. It just has some light surface rust. That's what cast saw tables do. The issue is the surface rust can turn to pitting if left too long.

I've never seen a table that wouldn't come around with the scratch pad trick.

 

[derosa]

Green scotchbright pad with wd40 or rost-off, finish with turtle wax. Should take all of 1/2 hour.

 

[rsanter]

Don't want to be negative but that saw is not worth enough to warrant a great deal of effort or expense to restore
If it was me I would do a simple fix up to get it back into service and make it a user.

Clean the top with a scotch bride pad or a sander with very fine paper as was shown.
Get everything clean and adjusted and then put it to work

Bob

 

[Packard V8]

Don't want to be negative but that saw is not worth enough to warrant a great deal of effort or expense to restore
If it was me I would do a simple fix up to get it back into service and make it a user.

Clean the top with a scotch brite pad or a sander with very fine paper as was shown.
Get everything clean and adjusted and then put it to work

Bob

X2 - it's just a user. Scuff, clean, lube, put a good blade on it and go.

jack vines

 

[Voi]

In addition to the other advice, you could also cover the top in a few layers of paper towels and saturate them with Evapo Rust. Towels can be tucked down into the miter slots as well.

Wrap the whole top with a large trash bag to keep the surface wet.

I did something like this once and it worked well and didn't take much Evapo Rust. Gave a good head on buffing and waxing.

 

[G_P]

Light oil and some steel wool or scotchbrite will take care of that. Thats not very rusted.

 

[ryan20021982]

I refinished an old Delta and used fine grit sandpaper and then applied a few coats of Johnsons paste wax, recoat every so often and looks great.

 

[Zeke]

I often use a belt sander on CI tables. 120 grit seems to leave a nice finish. You can rub on it all you want but that is not necessary. Wax it as mentioned. If the miter grooves are tight make a long thin block to wrap sandpaper on and clean them out. If the miter gauge is also steel use valve grinding compound to lap the gauge in to the groove. It will slide like butter.

 

[acdeucey]

That top is in pretty good shape. Shouldn't take much effort to rejuvenate it.

I've cleaned up much worse using naval jelly. Naval jelly is not too aggressive and, because it's a "jelly", you brush it on, let it work, and then wipe it off. It's nice because it doesn't run all over the place.

Afterward, coat the top with Johnson Paste Wax and, VOILA, just like new.

Good luck.

Don

 

[urbanG33K]

Finishing sander with 240 grit paper and 5 minutes.

​

Wow, that looks pretty good!


I never would have thought you could sand cast iron in any kind of efficient way.

 

[urbanG33K]

X2 - it's just a user. Scuff, clean, lube, put a good blade on it and go.

jack vines

I hear ya.


I guess what I mean by 'restore' and what others mean by restore are a bit different. My goal is to get it back to useable condition. Not turn it into a show piece.

The biggest hurdle between the end goal is cleaning the top. It's so rough right now I'm sure I couldn't run a sheet of melamine across it without ruining the finish.

The saw was free and has been in the family so I'm gonna keep using it.

I've already picked up a Vega Pro 50 Fence system for it. New STOP/Start switch.


I'm finally at the point where I can spend some time and put it all together.

 

[wkndwarrior29]

I recently restored a saw by cleaning the surface with steel wool then 320 grit on a finish sander, cleaning along the way with mineral spirits.