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Options for shop subpanel feeder

kingchevy

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Sorry, I have read the threads and I know this has been beat into the ground but... please give me your opinion on how to feed my subpanel.
I have a 200 amp service on the main house and need to go 100' through the attic and down the wall, then through the footing and underground another 50' to the 1500' shop for a total run of 150'. My electrician friend wants me to run a 2-2-2-4 romex through the attic to a junction box at the plate, then #2 THWN in conduit to the shop. I believe that this would need to be protected by a 90 amp breaker at the service panel. The romex is very pricey, and I think I would rather just run 1 1/2" conduit the whole way and pull 3 #1 THWN and a ground. I can buy a 500' roll of #1 for less that the 100' of romex. Then I believe that I could use a 100 amp breaker at the service panel. Is this the correct wire size to stay within 3 percent voltage drop over this distance? There will be 2 regular sweeps and 2 long sweeps in the run, will this pull the whole way or should I still have a junction box at the plate? Thanks in advance.
 
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Mustang51js

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Use 100 amp aluminum ser to go from panel to outside ,then switch over to pipe and #4 thhn to garage. You could then use a 100 amp breaker but legally I think you have to use 75 amp breaker.
 

PRH44

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Use 100 amp aluminum ser to go from panel to outside ,then switch over to pipe and #4 thhn to garage. You could then use a 100 amp breaker but legally I think you have to use 75 amp breaker.

#4 THWN is not rated for 100 amps

There will be 2 regular sweeps and 2 long sweeps in the run,
Not sure what you mean by this All 90 degree elbows will need to be at least code minimum radius. Table 2 chapter 9 1.5" will be 8.25" or greater. NO you can not use plumbing fittings.

I like the Idea of conduit I am a conduit fan, I prefer conduit,
The minimum you will need is A #3 copper THWN #2 and #1 may be readily available at the box stores. I prefer copper when it is in the budget.
Lets discuss Aluminum as it is more economical
#1 Aluminum XHHW (the insulation I prefer on aluminum). You will need (3 ) #1 XHHW and (1)#6 aluminum ground
This will fit in an 1.5" PVC conduit. 360 degrees of bends max. However you will never regret a Pull box at the point of exit in the house. Based on 1.5" conduit U bend pulls ( IE> IN THE TOP OUT THE BACK ) The conduits shall be a minimum 9" apart. Straight through pull will be 12".
#1 Aluminum will be fine for voltage drop based on 240 volt. 90 amp load at 3 percent
Voltage drop is subjective. Code recommends 3 percent branch and a 2 percent on feeders. Combined for a 5 percent drop total. It is recommendation only not required.

I would install a second conduit to your out building for systems such Data/voice/security/cable etc.

I wont go into cable assembly options as the other professional here who prefer that wiring method will give you sound advise.
 
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Norcal

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Use 100 amp aluminum ser to go from panel to outside ,then switch over to pipe and #4 thhn to garage. You could then use a 100 amp breaker but legally I think you have to use 75 amp breaker.

As said before 4 AWG THHN is not rated for 100A. Where are you going to find a 75 ampere breaker??????? Not a standard rating.
 

Mustang51js

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#4 thhn copper is rated for 95 amps in the 90 degree column. Your allowed to bump up to next size breaker which would be 100 amps. For last couple years the inspectors wanted 75 amp breakers on them which can be ordered or a 70 which you can get at Home Depot. What you should do is check your local codes since each state has there own things they like.
 

PRH44

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#4 thhn copper is rated for 95 amps in the 90 degree column. Your allowed to bump up to next size breaker which would be 100 amps. For last couple years the inspectors wanted 75 amp breakers on them which can be ordered or a 70 which you can get at Home Depot. What you should do is check your local codes since each state has there own things they like.

To use the 90C column current ratings one would need every device in the circuit to be rated 90C that means breakers/lugs/connectors etc. ALL Rated at 90C.
You will not find a breaker nor a panel with lugs rated as such
Therefor you must use the 75C column for THHN THWN etc.
When we talk NM cable or romex code further limits its use to 60C.

Be very careful using the 90 degree column for ANYTHING other than de-rating calculations and specialty installations that you will not find in a residence.

Please review 110.14 (C) for Temperature limitations
 
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Norcal

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Using the 90 degree column is the advice Home Depot gives. :( No I am not kidding.
 

pattenp

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Yep.. at one time the wire size charts in my local Lowes and HD were wrong and displayed the 90 degree amp ratings. The charts have been replaced and now only show the 60 and 75 degree amp ratings for the appropriate wire.

Using the 90 degree column is the advice Home Depot gives. :( No I am not kidding.
 

Mustang51js

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Using the 90 degree column is the advice Home Depot gives. :( No I am not kidding.

Well I'm just letting you know what we do in nj,it used to not be an issue and maybe that's why they want 70 amp breaker on #4 thhn copper in the last couple years. But then again every two years they change stuff around and I will find out all the new updates next week when I start my 34 hours of update classes.
 

Mustang51js

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Just a FYI, #4 copper THHN is 85A @75deg and #4 NM-b is 70A @ 60deg.

I know, I was just saying we used to use #4 and use it on a 100 amp breaker and never had any issues. Any how, he could still use the 4thhn and put on 70amp breaker unless he gets aluminum wire. With four 90s it would be a pain to pull through without a pull box. 99% of my work is residential so I use copper most of the time in romex.
 

Norcal

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I know, I was just saying we used to use #4 and use it on a 100 amp breaker and never had any issues. Any how, he could still use the 4thhn and put on 70amp breaker unless he gets aluminum wire. With four 90s it would be a pain to pull through without a pull box. 99% of my work is residential so I use copper most of the time in romex.

It's OK for a 100A residential service, it's not OK for a sub feed.

See NEC art. 310.15(B)(6) for where undersized conductors are allowed.
 
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volleyball

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No diagrams, no location, poor description, so how can you expect to give a valuable answer.
If you have a electrician friend you trust, let him decide. He probably knows what is right.

If he is a pro, he probably also knows that if you are anywhere near an electrical supply shop, the wire is much cheaper unless you are buying the whole roll and then it is just cheaper.
Bite the bullet, get the right stuff to do the job to code or better. You'll be glad you did.

I am wondering why you have to run the wire through the house? Why not trench burial service cable all the way?
 
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kingchevy

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Thanks for the replies. Going around the house all underground would add another 80' to the run. Going through the attic is a straight shot. When I said "2 longs sweeps" I was refering to heating the pipe and bending it at about a 3 foot radius for the 2 90's that are in the ground to hopefully make it pull easier. As far as the other recomendations about smaller wire, I would like to have a full 100 amps at the shop. I may add on to the building later and dont want to need to upgrade.
 

2ManyProjects

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Sorry, I have read the threads and I know this has been beat into the ground but... please give me your opinion on how to feed my subpanel.
I have a 200 amp service on the main house and need to go 100' through the attic and down the wall, then through the footing and underground another 50' to the 1500' shop for a total run of 150'. My electrician friend wants me to run a 2-2-2-4 romex through the attic to a junction box at the plate, then #2 THWN in conduit to the shop. I believe that this would need to be protected by a 90 amp breaker at the service panel.

First critical question: Was this recommendation based on use of copper wire, or aluminum? This makes a HUGE difference.

Notably, AWG 2 aluminum is limited to 90A by code; and Type NM-B, a.k.a. "Romex", is further limited to 75A. But either way, over a 150-foot run that would produce excessive voltage drop at anything over 50-75A (depending on which "threshold", 2% or 3%, you consider acceptable for a feeder).

Now, if your "electrician friend" was assuming copper all the way, that could potentially provide up to 115A to the sub-panel, depending on the specific cable types used (and the temperature ratings of their insulation/jackets). Voltage drop would be "OK" (but only "OK"), at about 2.4% @ 100A.

The romex is very pricey, and I think I would rather just run 1 1/2" conduit the whole way and pull 3 #1 THWN and a ground. I can buy a 500' roll of #1 for less that the 100' of romex. Then I believe that I could use a 100 amp breaker at the service panel.

Again, copper or aluminum? With aluminum THHN/THWN, AWG 1 would be code-compliant at 100A; but it would still produce more voltage drop (by a little or a lot, again depending on the "acceptable threshold" chosen) than you really want over that length run. And remember, THHN/THWN would need to be in conduit the ENTIRE way from one panel to the other, including the runs inside the house. That could be a major PITA.

Is this the correct wire size to stay within 3 percent voltage drop over this distance?

As noted above, no. But at least in the last case (AL AWG 1 THHN the whole way), if you consider 3% acceptable, you'll likely also consider 3.167% to be "close enough".


Use 100 amp aluminum ser to go from panel to outside ,then switch over to pipe and #4 thhn to garage. You could then use a 100 amp breaker but legally I think you have to use 75 amp breaker.

As others have pointed out, this is Just Plain Wrong.


I like the Idea of conduit I am a conduit fan, I prefer conduit,
The minimum you will need is A #3 copper THWN

Make that "DEAD minimum"; IMCO, it would be an edge case, at best.

#2 and #1 may be readily available at the box stores. I prefer copper when it is in the budget.

As do I, in general; but it is indeed considerably more damaging to the checkbook. AWG 2 copper would also keep voltage drop well below 3%; but to keep it below 2% would require AWG 1 copper -- and that starts to get pricey indeed (~$2/ft., x3).

Lets discuss Aluminum as it is more economical
#1 Aluminum XHHW (the insulation I prefer on aluminum). You will need (3 ) #1 XHHW and (1)#6 aluminum ground

But that would bring voltage drop back up over 3% (@ 100A load).

#1 Aluminum will be fine for voltage drop based on 240 volt. 90 amp load at 3 percent

Yes, if we limit things to 90A, we squeak by at just under 3% V.D..

Voltage drop is subjective. Code recommends 3 percent branch and a 2 percent on feeders. Combined for a 5 percent drop total. It is recommendation only not required.

I would definitely NOT call it "subjective". It is what it is, and can be calculated precisely; that is completely objective. Those limits being in the form of a "recommendation" as opposed to a hard-and-fast requirement puts it at least somewhat into the realm of a value judgement; and thus, it can be subject to some degree of "adjustment" in the field as the situation warrants. But the recommendation itself IS based on good, solid OBJECTIVE reasons. And for these same reasons, you really don't want to significantly exceed the recommendation; and staying well under it is better yet.

I would install a second conduit to your out building for systems such Data/voice/security/cable etc.

Good idea.


Use 1-1-1-3 aluminum SER for the inside run, not Romex (NM-b).

I agree with the SER recommendation. But as noted above, the "1-1-1-3 aluminum" part would be a bit "iffy" in terms of voltage drop. In practical terms, it would probably OK in the overall scheme of things, presuming he doesn't habitually load down that feeder cable for all it is worth; but it would still be better to go with a larger cable. It would be a bit pricey, but there IS this:

http://www.elliottelectric.com/Products/Detail.aspx?v=COP&c=SER241000
SOUWIRE00126_WB_1_PE_001.jpg


or even this:

http://www.elliottelectric.com/Products/Detail.aspx?v=COP&c=SER13WG500
SOUWIRE00126_WB_1_PE_001.jpg


either of which would kill several birds with one stone (including eliminating the need for conduit inside the house, which will help offset some of the cost).


Thanks for the replies. Going around the house all underground would add another 80' to the run. Going through the attic is a straight shot.

If you say so; and lacking any sort of drawing/diagram, I have no choice but to take your word for this. But it does seem a bit odd that it would still be "shorter" to snake up/down/sideways through the house interior for ~100 feet, before even hitting the trench. Where within the house is the main service panel located? Typically, these are put into basement or garage areas. If so in your case, it stands to reason that there MUST be some shorter/straighter route to an appropriate outside location than going all the way up to the attic and back down again. FWIW, and all that.

As far as the other recomendations about smaller wire, I would like to have a full 100 amps at the shop. I may add on to the building later and dont want to need to upgrade.

In which case, size EVERYTHING generously from the get go. Don't even attempt to "squeak by" on such things as voltage drop, etc.; you'll be far happier in end, long after the pain of writing the check is but a dim foggy memory.

 

Charles (in GA)

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Not sure what climate you are located in. Running thru the attic usually means the circuit will need to be derated due to the heat in the attic in summer. Small amounts of derating will have no effect on the amp draw, since you are using the 90°C column (if the wire is 90C rated) for the derating. That is one of the very few uses for the 90C column in the tables, is derating. If the attic temp often exceeds 122°F (which might not be unusual), then the derating starts cutting into your amperage big time.

Charles
 

PRH44

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If the attic temp often exceeds 122°F (which might not be unusual), then the derating starts cutting into your amperage big time.

One of the most ignored factors I see in the field. Great point Charles

I would definitely NOT call it "subjective". It is what it is, and can be calculated precisely; that is completely objective. Those limits being in the form of a "recommendation" as opposed to a hard-and-fast requirement puts it at least somewhat into the realm of a value judgment; and thus, it can be subject to some degree of "adjustment" in the field as the situation warrants. But the recommendation itself IS based on good, solid OBJECTIVE reasons. And for these same reasons, you really don't want to significantly exceed the recommendation; and staying well under it is better yet.

2 many projects first of all I respect and agree with your assessments more often than not.
Value judgment I would agree. Adjustment in the field as a situation warrants...Agreed. Voltage drop can be calculated precisely.. Agreed.
Value judgment and adjustments should consider the following;
Interpretation of applicable codes/ manufactures recommendations for voltage on specific equipment/ Load management/diversification of loads in a facility/ Budget.

Sometimes using the code without considering all variables of the application can net in an over engineered project. Which is outstanding if its in the budget
Total VD from source to that last Recept. is recommended to be 5 percent.
When calculating only feeder or only branch each can be 3 percent.
When considering both one will need to be 2 percent for a total of 5
Example: using the code VD recommendation in total objectivity with blinders applying the following parameters
(1) 100 amp load at 240 volt for a non continuous load no more than 2 hours 59 minutes 59.99 seconds, any longer, this load would need to be limited to 80 amps per NEC
(2) 2 percent voltage drop on feeders per NEC fine print note recommendation.
(3) A 20 amp branch circuit fully loaded at 20 amps for short term no longer than mentioned above, If longer circuit is limited to 16 amps per NEC
(4) No temperature compensation considered.
(5) Feeder length of 150 feet

2 percent on feeders
#1 copper
3/0 Aluminum, (2/0 Aluminum to "squeak by")

3 percent on branch. The following will be calculated on zero volt drop at the garage assuming 120 volt nominal.
Should there be a voltage as in 2 percent or greater this calculation would be affected.

#12 for no more than 45 feet for a branch circuit at 20 amp load.
#10 greater than 45 feet
#8 greater than 115 feet



Certainly this can be toned down and meet NEC requirements and the OP needs as I am sure many would agree.
I just wanted to give an example, and welcome any analytical input from all.

I do not want to confuse the OP so the following is my opinion

Depending on how the OP loads his service I am of the opinion A range from #3 copper at 80 to 90 amp load will work. If he wants to ride it harder #2 or #1 copper will be needed. Keep in mind loading a 100 amp breaker in excess of 80 amps for more than 3 hours there is a probability of tripping. Per NEC the feeder size should 1.25% of the continuous (greater than 3 hours) load
# 1 aluminum will work at 80 to 90 at 3 percent drop again if he wants less drop and has the money 1/0 or even 2/0 will be needed.
Not knowing how long his branch circuits are I cannot comment are the sizing
 

volleyball

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It is only more expensive to do it right the first time is if you don't include the cost of doing it the second time.
 

pattenp

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To confuse things more, SER if run within insulation its to be sized by 60 deg. See NEC 338.10(B)(4). Also refer to NEC 310.15(A)(2) exception.
 
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kingchevy

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I was never considering using aluminum. Really, just confirming that #1 was the correct guage and asking advice on se cable vs. conduit and wire.
 

PRH44

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#1 copper will do you very well.... VD will be around 2 percent at 100 amps.
 

2ManyProjects

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I was never considering using aluminum.

Good. Beyond copper's inherent "goodness", that also makes everything else simpler/easier.

Really, just confirming that #1 was the correct guage

AWG 1 copper will be fine. Excellent, even.

You could even "squeak by" with AWG 2 copper, if you are willing to accept a bit more voltage drop (roughly 2.4%, IIRC; but I'm not going to run the calcs again) in the feeder. As a practical matter, this would likely also be just fine, as long as you don't "push your luck" with respect to V.D. in the individual branch circuits. That said, if you're willing to pay for AWG 1 copper, go for it; because regardless of any of this, it is still the better choice.

and asking advice on se cable vs. conduit and wire.

I would use SER inside, then transition to THHN/THWN in conduit for the run through the trench. You MAY need (or at least want) to transition back to SER at the far end, depending on how the physical setup is laid out.

(And FWIW, I would still look REALLY hard for that "shorter path" from the existing panel to the outside trench, before carving ANY of this in granite. This might require a bit more work to fish the feeder cable through "inconvenient" spots; but it's also likely to be well worth that extra effort, if you can save 30-50 feet of run length.)

 

volleyball

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There are lots of options today to trench wiring under concrete or other material difficult to tear up and restore if that helps.
 
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