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Options to level concrete basement floor?

DavidMCO

Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2018
Messages
8
Location
Upstate NY
I'm looking to add some laminate flooring to my basement, and prior to doing so, need to level out a spot that funneled down to a drain.

I've attached some photos for some context & perspective.

In my research, I've come across:

  • Self-leveling concrete
  • Thinset

But have no experience with either.

What's my best path forward here? Thanks.

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JimR1998

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Dec 17, 2013
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81
Location
Southeastern PA
I'd go with troweling, cheaper and more forgiving. Home Depot sells a Feather Finish product (Henry) and also others you can use (Top N Bond is one I remember). I wouldn't use thinset as you're deeper than 1/4" and it's not really the application for it.

I got SLC poured in my basement. It's nice but has a learning curve. I wouldn't do it for such a small spot.
 
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DavidMCO

Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2018
Messages
8
Location
Upstate NY
I'd go with troweling, cheaper and more forgiving. Home Depot sells a Feather Finish product (Henry) and also others you can use (Top N Bond is one I remember). I wouldn't use thinset as you're deeper than 1/4" and it's not really the application for it.

I got SLC poured in my basement. It's nice but has a learning curve. I wouldn't do it for such a small spot.

Is https://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-345-1-qt-Pre-Mixed-Patch-and-Level-12063/202046251?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-100551687-_-202046251-_-N the non-self-leveling Henry product you were referring to?
 

JimR1998

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Dec 17, 2013
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81
Location
Southeastern PA
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chaosracing

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Nov 14, 2015
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585
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Kutztown, Pa
Self leveling thinset or cement is the way to go. Mix it a little thinner than what they say though, and if you need to go more than 1/2", pour in 2 lifts otherwise it might not cure correctly, or take longer. Also I would put a dehumidifier in the area as well.
Do not use premixed. 1)you will need more than buying in bags 2) why pay for someone elses water

You also might want to trim the drywall up a little to to prevent moisture from wicking up the drywall down the road and getting mold on it. Good rule of thumb is to have at least 1/2" gap from concrete and drywall.
 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,275
Location
SE MI
What you really want are insulated, vapor proof, raised sub-floor tiles, typically 2'x2'. They are sold by a couple of different companies. They have a couple of big benefits.

Because the finished floor is not in contact with any cementitious product, cold will not be transmitted. They also form a vapor barrier to prevent moisture from coming through. Best of all, because they are raised on bumps, if you ever get a leak, the water will just run underneath them to the floor drain.

Not cheap and more efforts to install (low spots have to be shimmed), but FAR SUPERIOR to any other solution.
 
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