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Orchard Sprayer rebuild

farmcat

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Joined
Dec 25, 2013
Messages
134
Location
Southern Maine
So now that my barn is somewhat usable, I've started working on a few projects, one of which is an old orchard sprayer that has been in the family since new back in 1962. I'm hoping to start playing around again with an apple orchard someday. this old girl has been neglected bad, left out in the weather and has a lot of rust and deterioration. The gas engine (GMC 270) was stuck and had 3 bent push rods. the hardest part is going to be rebuilding the fan assembly. Ive put some pictures in of what Im working on.
 

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farmcat

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Dec 25, 2013
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Southern Maine
These are pics of the fan assembly where a lot of the rotted metal will need to be cut out and new put back in.
 

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farmcat

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Dec 25, 2013
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134
Location
Southern Maine
Pics of the engine and the bent pushrods....which was my fault for being a little to eager to get it cranking over. it had some stuck valves and I knew I should pulled the valve cover off and checked first...but I didnt.
 

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farmcat

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Dec 25, 2013
Messages
134
Location
Southern Maine
Any suggestions on the best way to get this fan pulled off the main shaft. The fan is aluminum and we cracked it back in the mid 80's when we rebuilt it the last time. Had to have the cracks welded and it stayed in balance. But I'm not sure the best way with non similar metals what's the best route.


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farmcat

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Joined
Dec 25, 2013
Messages
134
Location
Southern Maine
Any suggestions on the best way to get this fan pulled off the main shaft. The fan is aluminum and we cracked it back in the mid 80's when we rebuilt it the last time. Had to have the cracks welded and it stayed in balance. But I'm not sure the best way with non similar metals what's the best route.


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matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
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10,725
Location
SE Michigan
I would use three things, Kroil, daily soaking for a week, the blue wrench but have to keep the heat medium as to not melt the aluminum, and as mentioned a puller, which could be shop-made.

What I've done before (had a bandsaw wheel very similar up to a point, frozen on a gearbox output shaft) is start with a 2pc shaft collar that will fit behind the hub (mcMaster carr or others). Then weld ears to each side of the collar so you can get out far enough to have tension rods go thru 2 of the 4 holes in the fan. The "ears" may need a rib behind them for structure. Last part is a heavy tube or channel with 3 holes, 2 for the tension rods and a tapped one or weld-nut in the center. A pressure screw with a hardened tip is best but a gr8 bolt turned to a point on the lathe will suffice. Fine threads can help. Grease or anti-seize the center bolt and the contact point. So you assemble the puller, apply light pressure, warm the hub a little bit and slowly increase pressure. If the puller starts bending and lots of torque on the center bolt its time to stop and re-evaluate. If slow movement is detected then you are doing great, just keep going. Best of luck with the restoration!
 

snyder

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Dec 18, 2008
Messages
545
Location
Baltimore md.
I would drill and tap two bolt holes into the center hub and use a regular puller. That would keep all the stress off the welds.
 
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