Original vise paint - to keep or remove?

[Rob Sot]

Hi all, I am about to begin my first vintage vise restoration and thought I would pick your experienced brains on whether to keep the original factory paint.

I have just bought two 1930’s Parkinsons Perfect 15 wood vises. They are in amazing shape for their age and still, as far as I can tell have their original red paint on.

The paint has become tacky/spongy in places, particularly around the vise lettering, which worries me a little but still has a lot of coverage over the vise. There are small amounts of rust on the front face but very limited. I’m planning on using these vises so resale value isn’t particularly important, my main purpose is getting them in a place where they can do another 85 years of solid service.

My inclination is to strip them down and give them a nice new coat of paint, this seems to be what most people do? I do almost feel guilty about taking away that original history though?

Would you choose to strip the vises down to original metal and re paint or should I be thinking about keeping the paint work and just applying wax or oil to maintain them?

(I can supply photos later if that helps?)

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Rob,

Since they're going to be users, it's a completely subjective question.

Does the current original but aged, worn condition of the finish detract from the utility of the vises? No. But, you're the one that has to look at them every day, and people do take pride in their shop, tools and equipment, as much as their work. Does the current appearance detract from that for you?

Only you can answer that.

I prefer to preserve. Sometimes a finish is so far gone (little to no paint coverage, not just surface, but cancerous rust, etc) that the only choice is stripping and refinishing. But I am loathe to do it and my line (for when to make that call, and when to preserve) is probably way more tolerant than other people's lines, if they even have one. To me, new, factory-looking finishes look garishly anachronistic on a vintage or antique tool or box. (And putting neon and other modern colors on antique tools evokes more than animus in me.) In fact, I love original, aged, worn appearances so much that even when I have to refinish a tool or box I will try to distress it to make it look aged, worn, but well-maintained.

 

[Rob Sot]

Thanks Lugz,

Useful advice. As this is very much a development process because I'm currently building my first shop I'm not entirely certain I know how much the appearance will bother me if at all.

As I have two vices I may do one full paint job on one and a much more sympathetic restoration on the other and see which I prefer!

I'm assuming the paint is going to be lead based, is this something that I should be overly worried about or is a basic face mask going to be fine if I wire wheeled it?

Rob

 

[ALLFAST]

Well stated Lugs����������������

 

[BFBOB]

Thanks Lugz,

I'm assuming the paint is going to be lead based, is this something that I should be overly worried about or is a basic face mask going to be fine if I wire wheeled it?

Rob

My solution to that problem is to use liquid means of removal so the lead doesn't become airborne. I start with electrolysis, which removes rust. It also removes paint when it's near or on rusty areas, or very loose. Then paint remover with handheld wire brush.

Of course, you could also test the paint for lead content with the test kits available at all hardware stores, and practically anywhere paint is sold. Maybe you luck out.

Another method I have used with mixed results is boiling in plain water. I read somewhere that cabinet makers and restoration carpenters use that for stripping old brass hardware. I've tried it on a few small vises and found it works pretty well on repaints, but not so well on original paints, which may be baked enamel.

But, no, you don't want lead dust in the air.