OSB hanging questions

[Tamper84]

Well I am already decided on osb (it's already bought and in,the garage,just not hung lol). But, I was wondering did you all hang yours rough side, or smooth side out? It will be painted.

Also, I know I should leave a gap in the bottom so it doesn't wick moisture off of the concrete, but how big of a gap?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[gregtwojeeps]

First, my condolences for your dog that has passed away in your avatar....

Keep it 3/8 " or so off the floor.

The slick side is sealed, which helps on moisture saturation prevention and will need a high adhesion primer or at least scuffed up for better adhesion. The rough side if painted I found, seems to raise the flakes up on the OSB like fish scales. Just ones personal preference I guess. JMO

 

[Tamper84]

Thank you Greg. That was my dog getting his hair cut, in that picture he was still very much alive, just kinda out of it lol. He was a great one had him 15 years.

I was thinking of putting it smooth sided out just because I think I would like it better. Is there a primer you would recommend?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Crazyjake8493]

I always do smooth side facing out. I would use a good quality oil-based primer, then a few coats of latex or oil paint. The oil-primer is key with OSB or it will just soak up all the paint and look uneven. I've also heard of using oil-based primer then skim coating with joint compound if you want a really smooth finish that looks like drywall, but is much more durable. I hate drywall in a garage, I always go with OSB.

 

[JOHN 86GT]

zinser or kilz oil base first then you can use latex

 

[jwvess00]

Hello,

Last year I put up about 120 sheets of this stuff in my shop (36x50, walls, ceiling, and dividng wall).

I put it smooth side out, though I sort-of think it would have been better the other way. The ridges would never be as smooth as the smooth side but after it's painted it may look better since the chips on the smooth side show through even with primer and paint. I don't know for sure. It might be an interesting exercise to paint both sides of a scrap of it and see what you think before you hang any of it.

I primed mine with Zinnser Cover Stain oil based primer (not 1-2-3 which is water based, and not BIN which is a shellac). I managed about 250 sq. ft. per gallon, maybe 300. I put it on with an 18" wide roller cover and either a 1/2" or 5/8" nap (I don't remember). I've painted the ceiling that way, and have done some of the walls but not all of them. It's on the list, I'm just slow working by myself.

I used one coat of that, and followed it with a single coat of Behr eggshell white, Paint/Primer in one. I used that to try to avoid having to do multiple coats of paint, and I'm okay with how it has turned out so far.

I'm also running a bead of silicone between the bottom of the OSB and the floor as an additional barrier to moisture.

 

[gregtwojeeps]

Thank you Greg. That was my dog getting his hair cut, in that picture he was still very much alive, just kinda out of it lol. He was a great one had him 15 years.

I was thinking of putting it smooth sided out just because I think I would like it better. Is there a primer you would recommend?

Thanks,
Chris

Oooops, opening my mouth and inserting my foot here. ...
The first sentence in my reply was in jest by the way the dog looks in your avatar. I had know way of knowing he was gone. Truly sorry now.

 

[Jason280]

I've always done smooth side out, but I am curious about a good primer. I've done two shops with OSB, and always raise it the thickness of the OSB itself off the concrete...worked so far!

 

[ADSR]

Smooth side out.

 

[Wanna Ride]

I never use drywall in a garage or shop either. I always use the smooth side out, with two coats of Kilz primer, and two coats of paint, on top on that. I'd bet the rough side out would soak up a log more paint/primer.

Cut a strip of the same material you're using, and use that for your gauge, off the floor when you start your first layer around the room. I always use 7/16", on both walls and ceilings.

 

[Pathfinders]

I had my Kilz primer tinted to the color I wanted. Did not use paint.

 

[Tamper84]

Oooops, opening my mouth and inserting my foot here. ...
The first sentence in my reply was in jest by the way the dog looks in your avatar. I had know way of knowing he was gone. Truly sorry now.

Absolutely no reason to be sorry. He does indeed look dead in the picture. Funny back story on that, he was really horrible when he got his hair cut, the vet ended up prescribing tranquilizers so the women could cut his hair. So he always had that "good drugs man" look when he was getting groomed. I actually forgot about that picture till I was cleaning out some computer files, and I put it as my avatar since I didn't have one lol(I figured it would fit in and get some chuckels around here lol). It has been two and a half years since I've said good bye, still miss him. But again no reason to be sorry or feel bad about anything!!!!


Thank you to everyone for your replies. I'm going to go smooth side out and it sounds like kilz is the way to go on,the primer. Heck even tint it like Pathfinders said and I only have to prime it!!!lol. But then my wife would be missing out on her fun, she loves to paint.

Good idea on just laying down a strip of osb to keep it off the floor. I do have some scrap from when I put up the ceiling.

Thank you all again!!!!
Chris

 

[493mike]

Hi Chris,
I have used all drywall in my shop for fire resistance and it all sits on a 2X6 PT base board. After paint I use silicone caulk to seal the 2X6 to the floor. One wall in my wood shop area is OSB (rough side out) over the drywall so I can hang tools anywhere. That OSB got one coat of primer and two coats of finish, sprayed on heavily. I went in halves with a buddy on a pump type sprayer and was pleased with the speed and results!
Mike

 

[Jamie V]

I used 3/4" T&G OSB on my walls and 7/16" on the ceiling.

I held the wall boards up off the floor like mentioned and all with smooth side out. I screwed the wall sheathing and glued and stapled the ceiling.

I then sanded all the joints and screw holes with a belt sander to get rid of the flakes.



Then primed with this oil based primer. Two coats.





Then painted with this paint. Two coats.

 

[wes73]

Smooth side out. Run a 2x6x8 PT along the bottom first. Then set the sheets on that. This eliminates the worry of water. I used Bin to prime them.

 

[gregtwojeeps]

I used 3/4" T&G OSB on my walls and 7/16" on the ceiling.

I held the wall boards up off the floor like mentioned and all with smooth side out. I screwed the wall sheathing and glued and stapled the ceiling.

I then sanded all the joints and screw holes with a belt sander to get rid of the flakes.

Then primed with this oil based primer. Two coats.

[

Then painted with this paint. Two coats.



Nice job ! Question though.... how come you used a DTM for finish ?

 

[Ainsley]

I went smooth side "in" (ie. showing) as well.
Primed with SW exterior oil based wood primer, caulked the seams, and then top coated with SW shercryl high performance acrylic (water based) in a gloss finish.

Primed:

Top coated:

 

[NUTTSGT]

I put mine smooth side out, 2 coats of kilz oil based followed with paint. I was going to suggest a PT 1x4 or deck board as a base board for the OSB to sit on.

 

[laser3kw]

Smooth side out. Run a 2x6x8 PT along the bottom first. Then set the sheets on that. This eliminates the worry of water. I used Bin to prime them.

if you have greater than 8' in wall height and if the ceiling line is straight, push the sheet up tight to the top. Make sure the vertical edges are vertical and leave "the gap" at the bottom. This will assure no gap /crooked at top and then use you trim board ( 1/2 x 4 ) to cover the crooked /gap at the bottom. I would also elevate the trim board 1/4" to 3/8" inch off the floor to keep it out of any water and therefore, swelling. Your sill plate should be treated lumber and can with stand occasional water better.

 

[Jamie V]

I used 3/4" T&G OSB on my walls and 7/16" on the ceiling.



I held the wall boards up off the floor like mentioned and all with smooth side out. I screwed the wall sheathing and glued and stapled the ceiling.



I then sanded all the joints and screw holes with a belt sander to get rid of the flakes.



Then primed with this oil based primer. Two coats.



[



Then painted with this paint. Two coats.

Nice job ! Question though.... how come you used a DTM for finish ?

Painter recommended it, is it no good?

 

[gregtwojeeps]

Painter recommended it, is it no good?

No, it is fine..you did good. I just noticed it is a DTM paint meaning direct to metal. Usually costs more.

 

[k-os]

I also hung my 7/16" smooth side out. Prior to hanging I belt-sanded with 80 grit (or maybe it was 120). Caulked and sanded all seams. Primed with 2 coats of Kilz and then two coats of latex exterior paint (not heated year-round yet).

 

[Tamper84]

Thank you all for the information!!! Hopefully this weekend sometime it will all be hung and one step closer to having a finished garage!!!

Chris

 

[GreenScrew]

Any special screws recommended for OSB sheathing or just use sheetrock screws?

 

[jconnor3]

If it was me i'd use coated deck screws that have a box or star drive head to them. Way easier to sink flush and you don't have to worry about stripping them out.

 

[Falcon67]

Any special screws recommended for OSB sheathing or just use sheetrock screws?

Yes, use coated deck screws, 1 5/8" - same length as drywall. Drywall screw heads will pop off if the screw gets a good bite in a decent stud. Or with a softer stud, when the screw head hits the OSB it will just spin and lose all grip in the stud. You can use a drywall bit to keep from sinking the screws too deep. HD sells some in packs of 4.

 

[signcrafter]

If you are going to use a piece of wood at the bottom use a PVC 1x4. Waterproof like treated wood but it is straighter and won't dry out ant twist like pressure treated wood.

 

[Falcon67]

I just spaced mine off the floor. OSB is not as sensitive to water as many people think. My old shop had a corner that got wet every good rain storm. No issues in 12 years.

 

[sst1]

I guess with some fire codes, why don't you like using Drywall. Comes in many thickness, etc.

 

[Jamie V]

I used 3/4" OSB so I predrilled the holes with a countersink bit then used stainless screws. Wasn't sure if Sheetrock screen would rust and bleed through.

1-7/8" or 2" crown staples work the best for 7/16 OSB you'll tear the OSB apart before pulling the staples out.

 

[Crusarius]

Why is it in all the pictures I see everyone has put the sheets horizontal on the wall instead of vertical? is this for ease of install? or does it serve a different purpose.

My thought would be vertical so anything I hang on the wall that would be pulling on the board would have more board so it won't pull the seam apart.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I guess with some fire codes, why don't you like using Drywall. Comes in many thickness, etc.

Welcome to GJ. You will find that wall covering are generally highly debated topics but most members have come to terms with the "agree to disagree" on this topic.

 

[laser3kw]

If you are going to use a piece of wood at the bottom use a PVC 1x4. Waterproof like treated wood but it is straighter and won't dry out ant twist like pressure treated wood.

Never thought of that ( or been shown). Great tip!

 

[Falcon67]

Why is it in all the pictures I see everyone has put the sheets horizontal on the wall instead of vertical? is this for ease of install? or does it serve a different purpose.

My thought would be vertical so anything I hang on the wall that would be pulling on the board would have more board so it won't pull the seam apart.

All mine are vertical. I did not paint, so I didn't care. Also, if I need to remove a panel to service or add wiring it's a lot less of a problem. Or to fix one when I tried to drive a golf cart though it.