OSB wall installation questions

[Sumo91]

Hey guys, we just bought a new house that came with a metal building/shop. Although it was poorly built, I've been working out the kinks (roof leaks, etc.) I'm gonna be getting it insulated soon with closed cell spray foam.

So here's a little info about the shop, then I'll get on with my question. The shop is 30ft wide (front and rear with 2 9x7 garage doors on the front), 24ft deep (both sides, with one regular doorway on the left hand side) 9ft corners, with a 12ft peak. The trusses and metal studs are spaced 5ft apart. Once it's insulated, I want to put up 7/16 OSB on the walls and the ceiling. Since the studs are spaced 5ft out, I was thinking of running 2x4s horizontally, mounted to the metal studs themselves with some kind of stout self tapping screws/bolts, probably on 24in centers. Then mount the OSB to the 2x4s. Does this plan sound decent? I'll attach a picture or two of my incredibly disorganized and messy shop (once I get the walls up, I can start organizing and building shelves, we just moved in and I've had other priorities)

 

[The Cobbler]

yes, but I would look at using 1x4 with a 1x4 vertical , in the centre , attached to the cleats to stiffen the centre from being bouncy .
not sure of I made sense

 

[Sumo91]

That makes sense. 1x4s are cheaper as well. The spray foam will be 2in thick, and the studs on the 30ft long run are 3.5in, and 2in on the 24ft side. So I could use them on the front and rear wall, but not the sides (the center support you're talking about)

I was thinking the 2x4s would give it plenty of strength, especially on 24in horizontal centers.

My main concern with all of it is attaching the 2x4s to the metal studs themselves. I'll be putting plenty of holes in the OSB hanging lots of random stuff. Not sure what self tappers to use.

 

[billconner]

I'd ask the metal building manufacturer if it's designed for the additional weight of interior walls, etc.

 

[racecougar]

I'd ask the metal building manufacturer if it's designed for the additional weight of interior walls, etc.

Bingo. Those Versatube buildings are designed to be as cost conscious as possible. They typically are not rated to support any form of interior sheathing, especially a ceiling.

 

[Sumo91]

I'd ask the metal building manufacturer if it's designed for the additional weight of interior walls, etc.

I did that. They were zero help and had no clue about adding weight. Their Google reviews are under 2 stars if that tells you anything, mainly do to customer service.

I can always add bracing to the frame if needed (before it's insulated). I've read on alot of forums that the insulation adds alot of strength to the building as well. Regardless, I gotta get something on the walls and ceiling so the foam isn't exposed. I'll be throwing alot of sparks. I can go with some really thin OSB/plywood on the ceiling for weight reduction

 

[bluedog225]

That is some light framing. I’d be hesitant. Maybe some fireproof cloth up top to stop sparks. Or skip the foam and go with fiberglass. With fiberglass board on the ceiling if you have to. Maybe some midspan supports. And walls resting on the ground, not the frame. Or just leave it unfinished and save the money for the next shed.

 

[CraigStu]

I agree w/ the concern of weight. But assuming you get that sorted, why not get some osb or similar that is available in 4x10 sheets, run them horizontally, screwed directly to the metal studs? If there is any slight concern about water getting to the bottom of the walls, run PT 1x6s at the floor and start the osb above them. 'Some' of the weight concern could be dealt w/ by laying the 1x6 right on the floor, and laying each subsequent osb on top of the one below it. I have no engineering degree but I am thinking that, if the existing frame just has to deal w/ the osb not falling over, vs supporting it's weight, it could work out. OTOH the ceiling would worry me. I could easily talk myself into not doing any ceiling at all. If you have to have a ceiling, look into the weight of metal panels vs the plastic corrugated panels.

 

[Sumo91]

That is some light framing. I’d be hesitant. Maybe some fireproof cloth up top to stop sparks. Or skip the foam and go with fiberglass. With fiberglass board on the ceiling if you have to. Maybe some midspan supports. And walls resting on the ground, not the frame. Or just leave it unfinished and save the money for the next shed.

I'd definitely love to build a new shop, we had to buy this house sight unseen (housing market ***** right now) and I was hoping this shop would have been great judging from the pictures. I've put alot of thought into getting it completely rebuilt, but I figure it will be too much money, even reusing all the existing metal siding and roofing. But the main problem would be getting most of my stuff out and into storage. My lathe, surface grinder, and drill press would have to stay.

Could I just re frame it as it sits, or just add more framing between centers? I could use some heavy duty pipe or tubing and center it between the current tubing/trusses, building new trusses as well. I'm a good welder, and it seems like a simple job, just a large job, with a large cost of materials. But probably worth the effort. I'd like to get this done right.

All advice is greatly appreciated!

 

[ycgoat]

I plan to use the galvanized metal roof decking, which can be had in 10’ sections to span the 5’ on center studs. So far everything I have is free standing strapped to the wall for safety, where needed

 

[Sumo91]

I agree w/ the concern of weight. But assuming you get that sorted, why not get some osb or similar that is available in 4x10 sheets, run them horizontally, screwed directly to the metal studs? If there is any slight concern about water getting to the bottom of the walls, run PT 1x6s at the floor and start the osb above them. 'Some' of the weight concern could be dealt w/ by laying the 1x6 right on the floor, and laying each subsequent osb on top of the one below it. I have no engineering degree but I am thinking that, if the existing frame just has to deal w/ the osb not falling over, vs supporting it's weight, it could work out. OTOH the ceiling would worry me. I could easily talk myself into not doing any ceiling at all. If you have to have a ceiling, look into the weight of metal panels vs the plastic corrugated panels.

I honestly wasn't aware there were 4x10 sheets available, that sounds like a great idea, I'm only familiar with the standard 4x8 sheets. I don't have any water intrusion problems on the floor, I did when I moved in, but I have since put a nice thick bead of butyl sealant around the entire inside perimeter of the floor. It's been working great so far.

 

[Sumo91]

I just measured the thickness of the tubing, it's. 065in, so 16 gauge.

 

[Shiftless]

I’m not an engineer either, but that framing looks pretty lightweight to me.

Doesn’t your area get strong winds once in a while?

 

[bluedog225]

I know it’s hot, and cold. But one option is just use as is. Frame up a small room with wood/metal if you need and enclosed space.

 

[Sumo91]

I’m not an engineer either, but that framing looks pretty lightweight to me.

Doesn’t your area get strong winds once in a while?

I haven't updated my location yet, I'm now in East TN.

 

[chad215]

7/16 OSB adds around 1.5# dead load to the structure + what ever framing you will use to support it (I wouldn't screw the OSB directly to the frames) And after that, it's realllly easy to start attaching things to the OSB because hey, it's there. I'm not as familiar with these types of buildings as I am with red iron, but I don't recommend doing this, especially on the ceiling. As mentioned before, these buildings are designed for the bare minimum.

 

[Sumo91]

I know it’s hot, and cold. But one option is just use as is. Frame up a small room with wood/metal if you need and enclosed space.

The whole shop is my enclosed space, It's going to be set up for welding, fabricating, some machining, and mechanic work. Also doing alot of machinery restoration.

I'm gonna see if I can get back in touch with the company that built it. If I can get 6 more trusses, one in-between each current truss, plus the legs, I think that will be plenty strong enough for the walls and ceiling. Just gotta get a price check.

 

[billconner]

I did that. They were zero help and had no clue about adding weight. Their Google reviews are under 2 stars if that tells you anything, mainly do to customer service.

I can always add bracing to the frame if needed (before it's insulated). I've read on alot of forums that the insulation adds alot of strength to the building as well. Regardless, I gotta get something on the walls and ceiling so the foam isn't exposed. I'll be throwing alot of sparks. I can go with some really thin OSB/plywood on the ceiling for weight reduction

Did you find the manufacturer or the local contractor that erected it? The engineers are with the manufacturer, the patent holders.

 

[Sumo91]

Did you find the manufacturer or the local contractor that erected it? The engineers are with the manufacturer, the patent holders.

The company is called Handi-Port. I called then earlier and asked about load ratings. The lady just told me "they're certified for Kentucky". When I asked her to elaborate, she said that's just what she was told. I then asked if there was an engineer or someone more knowledgeable I could talk to. They don't have an engineer, which doesn't surprise me. But she transferred me to the manager, who didn't bother to answer his phone. I left a voicemail, but doubt I'll hear back from them.

I called some steel suppliers, and got quotes on some 3x2 metal tubing (14 gauge) to build my own trusses and framework. After all my calculations, itll be a hair over 2k for just the steel. It's $88 for a 20ft piece (that's all the have available) I'm thinking I'm just gonna bite the bullet and do it. Also gonna run the roof vertical as it's currently run horizontally and it's terrible.

Let me know your thoughts

 

[PoorUB]

Why not just build stud walls inside, and run some I-joists across as high as you can, and sheet that? Fasten the tops of the stud walls to the metal structure, but only to tie it together. I-joists will give you a clear span.

I would not expect that structure to hold up any thing extra, IMO, it will barely support itself!

 

[Sumo91]

Why not just build stud walls inside, and run some I-joists across as high as you can, and sheet that? Fasten the tops of the stud walls to the metal structure, but only to tie it together. I-joists will give you a clear span.

I would not expect that structure to hold up any thing extra, IMO, it will barely support itself!

I've never heard of I joists, I had to look them up. Would I run them straight across from one wall to another? Or run them along the pitch of the roof?

 

[PoorUB]

I've never heard of I joists, I had to look them up. Would I run them straight across from one wall to another? Or run them along the pitch of the roof?

From one stud wall to the other. you will need to build stud walls to set them on. Like I said, I would not trust the the existing metal structure to support any extra framing.

The nice thing about them is they will support the insulation and ceiling sheeting without hanging anything from the existing structure.

I would run them the 24 foot direction, unless the overhead door openings cause a framing issue. You should be able to run them the 30 foot direction.

Here is a span chart,

I-joist span

Keep in mind this is for a floor load situation. IMO, you could go down a size and still be fine for a ceiling span, although I don't know if anyone will give their blessing on it!

 

[Sumo91]

From one stud wall to the other. you will need to build stud walls to set them on. Like I said, I would not trust the the existing metal structure to support any extra framing.

The nice thing about them is they will support the insulation and ceiling sheeting without hanging anything from the existing structure.

I would run them the 24 foot direction, unless the overhead door openings cause a framing issue. You should be able to run them the 30 foot direction.

Here is a span chart,

I-joist span

Keep in mind this is for a floor load situation. IMO, you could go down a size and still be fine for a ceiling span, although I don't know if anyone will give their blessing on it!

The framing I was going to add would be from the floor up, it wouldn't be tied to the existing framing to hold it up, but once built I would add some bracing to it here and there to help strengthen the existing framework.

I also just got a better quote on steel, $1265 for 14 ga 3x2 tubing. That's hard to beat.


Here is a crude drawing I made real quick, these trusses and legs would go between every current truss and leg, for an additional of 6 more.

 

[Kaizen]

Maybe i missed it but why are you sheathing the inside? Just to protect the spray foam?
I think i would run metal roofing panels up on the very top of the roof so i could have more headroom moving long pieces around. So just spray foam and then a cover over it to keep sparks from hitting it.
For the walls i'd sit it on a pt 2x on the ground so all the load is not on the walls. Then just secure it to the existing studs. If you are doing this to have weight on these walls i'd suggest building cabinets so the load is again on the floor not the wall.

 

[PoorUB]

The framing I was going to add would be from the floor up, it wouldn't be tied to the existing framing to hold it up, but once built I would add some bracing to it here and there to help strengthen the existing framework.

I also just got a better quote on steel, $1265 for 14 ga 3x2 tubing. That's hard to beat.


Here is a crude drawing I made real quick, these trusses and legs would go between every current truss and leg, for an additional of 6 more.

Personally, I would not go that way. I am wary of the existing structure being able to support a ceiling load even with the additional rafters.

 

[rayra]

Purlins is the word the op is looking for. And running a brick pattern of 10' or 12' 2x4s will help tie things together laterally.

As for sheathing, I'd suggest just the area where you want a working wall, behind work benches. OSB is running $25-50 / sheet around here.

And I would not put any shelving weight on the walls, instead make self-supporting shelving, it's easy enough. And just use attachment to the walls for stability.

 

[Sumo91]

Maybe i missed it but why are you sheathing the inside? Just to protect the spray foam?
I think i would run metal roofing panels up on the very top of the roof so i could have more headroom moving long pieces around. So just spray foam and then a cover over it to keep sparks from hitting it.
For the walls i'd sit it on a pt 2x on the ground so all the load is not on the walls. Then just secure it to the existing studs. If you are doing this to have weight on these walls i'd suggest building cabinets so the load is again on the floor not the wall.

I'm sheathing the inside with OSB to put screws where I want them to hang random stuff, and so sound doesn't bounce around. My buddy has a spray foamed shop with metal sheathing on the inside and the noise bounces around really bad, running a grinder is terrible in there. I won't be mounting anything heavy on the walls, just extension cords, grease guns, etc. All shelves and cabinets will be floor supported.

 

[ycgoat]

I'm sheathing the inside with OSB to put screws where I want them to hang random stuff, and so sound doesn't bounce around. My buddy has a spray foamed shop with metal sheathing on the inside and the noise bounces around really bad, running a grinder is terrible in there. I won't be mounting anything heavy on the walls, just extension cords, grease guns, etc. All shelves and cabinets will be floor supported.

I did not consider echo with metal walls. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Sumo91]

Personally, I would not go that way. I am wary of the existing structure being able to support a ceiling load even with the additional rafters.

After all the advice I've been given so far, I'll not be sheathing the ceiling, only the walls. The extra raftors and framing is more for peace of mind for structural/roof support for when I change the roof to a vertical roof, ill have to run 2x4s or some kind of metal across the length of the roof to mount the metal on (can't think of the name of it for some reason) . As of right now the roof is 30ft long pieces running horizontally. It holds water and isn't something I want to live with.

 

[MongoTA]

The company is called Handi-Port. I called then earlier and asked about load ratings. The lady just told me "they're certified for Kentucky". When I asked her to elaborate, she said that's just what she was told. I then asked if there was an engineer or someone more knowledgeable I could talk to. They don't have an engineer, which doesn't surprise me. But she transferred me to the manager, who didn't bother to answer his phone. I left a voicemail, but doubt I'll hear back from them.

Call them again.
"Hi, I'm interested in buying eight of your Model XYZ buildings, but I need some engineering/load specs for them before I place the purchase order. Who can help me with that?"

Now with all that written? Agree with what the others have written. Once you add one once, you or someone else will add on to the add on. That structure doesn't look like it support much more than itself to the minimum required loads.

 

[Sumo91]

Purlins is the word the op is looking for. And running a brick pattern of 10' or 12' 2x4s will help tie things together laterally.

As for sheathing, I'd suggest just the area where you want a working wall, behind work benches. OSB is running $25-50 / sheet around here.

And I would not put any shelving weight on the walls, instead make self-supporting shelving, it's easy enough. And just use attachment to the walls for stability.

Purlins, I've heard the name, but don't know the meaning exactly.

All shelves and cabinets will be floor supported. 7/16 OSB Is around $18/sheet here. If I wasn't planning on living here and working in this shop for the next 30+ years, I wouldn't worry about it. It's a new construction house and shop, and we plan on living here for the rest of our lives. I wanna make the shop nice, so when I walk in I'm not regretting anything, or wishing I did something different.

 

[stroked93]

I had OSB in my old shop, and sheetrock in my new one. Sheet rock is much easier to finish and looks a ton better. I wouldn't go through the hassle of OSB again after painting the last one. I have mounted everything I needed and put a sheet of pegboard over my bench.

 

[mepstein]

Why not do lightweight metal on the ceiling. Reduce the load on the rafters.

 

[billconner]

I looked at handi-port, and none of the pictures showed any interior finish. I have no good suggestions. Spray foam and use it to secure a very light panel of some sort?

 

[Sumo91]

I had OSB in my old shop, and sheetrock in my new one. Sheet rock is much easier to finish and looks a ton better. I wouldn't go through the hassle of OSB again after painting the last one. I have mounted everything I needed and put a sheet of pegboard over my bench.

I don't like drywall in a shop setting, it gets holes punched in it too easily from the smallest thing hitting it. And I hate working with drywall, floating it out, then sanding. I don't mind painting with a roller. Osb takes a heavy coat or two of primer, but it's alot easier IMO than drywall.

 

[Sumo91]

Why not do lightweight metal on the ceiling. Reduce the load on the rafters.

See post #29