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Out door sub panel connector locations?

Raisedonadeere

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Jul 31, 2017
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436
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Central KY
I am wanting to place a outdoor rated 100amp main breaker sub panel on a 6x6 post on side opposite the main panel. Is it ok for connection from main panel to enter the sub panel on side of panel and near bottom. There is a suitable knockout there but perhaps is only used on interior installs. I am using pvc conduit. Maybe a water tight connector of some kind makes it ok. Maybe it is fine near bottom regardless.

I have the lines from 3 out buildings stubbed up out of the ground just below where the the sub panel needs to be with straight shot into panel using available knockouts. I could use a hole saw to make the additional hole I need to provide entry for the supply through the bottom but I do not know what is drilling compliant . But even if the panel had sufficient large holes for these 4 connections it is going to require a Rube Goldberg set of pvc pieces to get around the pole and up into the bottom. Into the side it can be done with 2 pullouts or 1 90 deg elbo and 1 pullout.

So can I enter side of outdoor box? If not is there some other slick way to get around pole and into bottom such as water tite connection like I used on air conditioner.
 
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Norcal

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Mar 16, 2008
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As long the conduit entries are below live parts there are no issues, conduit entries in the upper part of a enclosure would require the use of Myers type hubs, sealing locknuts, or other suitable means.
 

Joe From NY

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NY
Its been argued that a subpanel on a post is a detached structure, so you'd need ground rods.



True. The guy who put two panels on H boards, one on each end of my lot across the street, said and did the same thing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Raisedonadeere

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Central KY
Thanks for the assurance that I am good as long as I enter box low. FYI Wilydiesel in reply to a earlier thread of mine regarding sub panel on a post answered that the ground rod was not needed in this case since the sub panel is on the same post with the meter base/supply panel. The connecting wire is only about 5’ at most. Based on that I am treating it just like the other sub panels except no grounding rod. Wilydiesel has been spot on with other things best I am understanding. Another ground rod is no biggie if I ignore the fact that it might take 20 tries to find a path through my rocky ground �� so I am happy to be spared that hassle. I have yet to drive the ground rods for the out buildings. If I get on a roll doing them I might just attempt one at the meter base��
 
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wyliesdiesels

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This is what needs to be kept in mind.

A subpanel on the same structure as the main service equipment (or the feeding subpanel in the case of 2 more in the same structure) does NOT require grounding electrodes.

So in your case, the main service and the subpanel are at the same location. No ground rod is needed on the subpanel because the main already has one and it really wouldnt do anything if added to the subpanel.
 
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Raisedonadeere

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Central KY
Thanks again Wiley uh my apologies I really did mean Wylie in my previous post.
What you said got me to wondering about bonding vs unbonded neutral and ground in this situation. The max possible current through the short neutral would create a near negligible voltage drop.
 

alfredeneuman

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Fullerton, CA
Thanks again Wiley uh my apologies I really did mean Wylie in my previous post.
What you said got me to wondering about bonding vs unbonded neutral and ground in this situation. The max possible current through the short neutral would create a near negligible voltage drop.

Unbonded neutral, 4 wire feeder, and a separate ground bar for the ground wires to connect to.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Thanks again Wiley uh my apologies I really did mean Wylie in my previous post.
What you said got me to wondering about bonding vs unbonded neutral and ground in this situation. The max possible current through the short neutral would create a near negligible voltage drop.

Doesnt matter how negligible.

Needs to be unbonded
 
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