To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Outdoor Panel and SER entrance

CoryF

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2017
Messages
9
A quick backstory. My detached polebarn needs an electrical upgrade. The current situation is a 2" conduit run to a subpanel... fed by a 12gauge UF-B cable tied in with a 15amp kitchen circuit. :confused: I can only assume this was never inspected. I've been planning to upgrade to a 70amp circuit (distance), and had started purchasing materials (cable/new panel) to run 2-2-2-4 SER in basement (~90ft) and splice to 2-2-2-4 MHF(~40ft) with Polaris connectors.

Enter honey dearest. She decides we want to install Solar Electric panels and our contractor determined garage was best location. I still get my electrical upgrade, wife gets her solar. Win win. Per the code, there must be an external quick disconnect for the solar system. After conferring with solar contractor and my in motion electrical plans, determine to put a small 70AMP 2 space outdoor load center at the SER/MHF junction instead of Polaris connectors.

My issue/question is about bringing the SER into the panel. The panel has been already purchased and delivered by the solar contractor (I wanted to do this work, but additional materials are part of solar costs/rebates). Based on existing conduit, I plan to replace the LB pictured with the electrical panel. My problem is there is no holes in the upper back of the panel, so I either have to drill one if I can, or come in the top. Coming in the top, I can't seem to find a SER water tight fitting (only oval shaped SE). I have found references to drilling out the rubber grommet to fit the SER as an option.

I have attached a few pictures of what I am working with. Please excuse the shitacular caulk job by the PO, I am going to be fixing that. Sorry for the extraneous back story, it's lead to the current situation/limitations.

TL;DR. How to get this SER into this panel?
 

Attachments

  • panel.jpg
    panel.jpg
    100.2 KB · Views: 32
  • LB.jpg
    LB.jpg
    18.6 KB · Views: 17
  • pmaU8n9.jpg
    pmaU8n9.jpg
    18.6 KB · Views: 18
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

brewchief

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
2,370
Location
Michigan
I would either come in the back in the lower knockout and extend the conduit or drill a new hole in the house and come in the lower knockout and not extend the conduit.

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk
 
OP
C

CoryF

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2017
Messages
9
Thanks for your input.

Unfortunately drilling a new hole isn't likely. I can only go down about 2 inches from current hole before I hit 12x12 "sill plate". This is a farm house with parts from the 1800's.

I could use the lower knockout, I have some concern of the wires getting a little bit tight both coming in roughly the same place. I'd also prefer to not go much higher as the top of that LB is already 46" off the ground.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
C

CoryF

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2017
Messages
9
I hadn't really considered drilling the new box until typing up this post, but after research it seems like that should be fine? It's tight but just enough room for a 1.5" knockout in the top left. Any potential issues doing that? The box is a bit wider than the LB as is, so adjusting the siding over a little isn't adding to the issue.
 
OP
C

CoryF

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2017
Messages
9
Anyone see an issue drilling a knockout demonstrated in pic? I know hole saw isn't preferred but I'll do it on a drill press to keep it a bit cleaner cut.
 

Attachments

  • 15954478683947163940764351441434.jpg
    15954478683947163940764351441434.jpg
    89.2 KB · Views: 25
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom