Outlet boxes in Plaster walls

[GTO]

Any suggestions for fixing loose metal outlet boxes in a plaster wall with lath ?
Thanks in advance.

 

[sberry]

Caulk around them. Wedge something in to hold and mud in around with a little Durabond.

 

[rjn2649]

It would depend. Are you dealing with original boxes and mounts that might have deteriorated behind the wall? Or are these later added boxes that use expansion anchors, or some other way to anchor in the wall and not to a stud?

 

[walrus]

Canned foam? Foam the box in place?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Fsatsil]

If the box is mounted to a wall stud you can sometimes drive a screw directly through the side of the metal box into the stud to tighten it up. Another option is to completely remove the old box and install a new “old work” box, if you are careful you can get away with an oversized “goof plate” to cover any wall damage around the electrical box.

 

[75gmck25]

If your old metal boxes are like those in my house (1940 vintage), there is a metal plate nailed on the face of the 2x4 stud, and it is L-shaped and riveted to the side of the box.

If the nails on the face of the 2x4 stud work loose, the box will also feel loose. However, because the nails are under the plaster and lathe, they can't come completely out of the stud, and you can't get to them to replace them with screws or somehow take out the play. Its kind of a good/bad situation, since the box feels loose (bad), but it can't really go anywhere (good).

You might try this if you do have boxes nailed to the face of the stud. Determine which side has the bracket, and then use a metal bit to drill through the plaster and through the metal bracket into the stud. Drive a screw down through the bracket and screw it tightly to the stud. Then go back and patch the plaster.

I've replaced a few of the old boxes and installed new ones, and during the process of cutting them out I always end up breaking more plaster than I intended.

Bruce

 

[Crazyjake8493]

Madison bars should still be long to reach the front of the box and bend around enough to secure it. I've used them to secure loose boxes in my mother's house which has lath and plaster walls.

 

[Stuff]

Madison bars should still be long to reach the front of the box and bend around enough to secure it. I've used them to secure loose boxes in my mother's house which has lath and plaster walls.

The madison bars pictured are generally made too short to use effectively with plaster walls - only good for drywall. The battleship style has longer fingers.
Also as far as I remember they are only for metal boxes.

 

[LifeLongWNYer]

I have a few boxes that are loose too. The "brackets" at the top and bottom of the box, which have holes for screws to go through them and into the wall, have nothing to grab in the wall. The plaster has chipped away. I've tried the "Madison Bars" ( glad to know what they are called ) but Stuff is correct, the wall is too thick for them.

Does anyone have more information in the "battleship style" which was mentioned?



.

 

[Stuff]

I haven't seen the battleship style on the shelf at the big box stores in years so try a real electrical supply. Officially called Old-work switch box steel-mounting holder or Old Work Device Support. I buy the Steel City version as they state for up to 1 1/2" thick drywall.

Search for 785991152104 or 820D
https://www.graybar.com/store/en/gb/galvanized-steel-switch-box-support-88254986#{Use%20With:Old%20work%20box%20-%20wall%20up%201-1/2%20in.%20thick}

I may be using them wrong as their picture always shows them upside down compared to how I install them.

 

[LifeLongWNYer]

Thanks for the info, Stuff.

That 1 1/2" capacity is good, by the time I try to secure a box in a wall that has hand made lath and a thick layer of plaster, I will be close to that thickness.



.