Outlet for a welder

[MrBaku]

Good morning everyone!

I would like to use ALPHATIG 203 XI with the following specs in my garage.

Here are the specs for the welder:

Rated Electrical Input: 120/ 240v 50/60 Hz
Minimum Amp Start On DC/AC: 5A/20A
TIG(GTAW) Duty Cycle (240V): 200 A, 18 V @ 60% Duty Cycle @ 40° C
TIG/Stick Open Circuit Voltage (OCV): 75V
STICK (SMAW) Duty Cycle (240V): 200 A, 28 V @ 35% Duty Cycle @ 40° C
MAX Inrush Amps: 120V: 42A, 240V: 34A
Effective Rated Amps: 120V: 25A, 240V: 24A

The only outlet in my garage is 120V/20A. Main breaker box is rated for 200A and located right behind the garage wall. My dryer is on a 30A breaker and oven on a 40A.

Not sure if I need to install the 50A outlet with 6/3 NM wire in this case.

In my understanding - I will need to bring the wires up to the ceiling from the box, bring them to the corner and then bring them down to the desired stud (in my head it looks like a very easy task). Just don't know how to do it properly per the code (city uses NEC 2017).

Would appreciate your input! Any two cents is helpful these days

 

[Zeke]

If you install a NEMA 6-50R you will have the right outlet for your power cord. They are cheap an will mount in a 2 gang box. Get a deep box. AFA the wiring, it this is a dedicated welding circuit you should be good with 8/2 NM cable on a 50 amp breaker.

This has been covered many times here. I'm not going to be the one to tell you that you can undersize your wire for a welder, but 8/2 has been done for the standard welder receptacle.

 

[pattenp]

To save some $$, use aluminum 6-6-6 SER cable. You can put it on a 50A breaker and use the 6-50R receptacle. That makes it usable for general use and not just for a welder. SER installs the same as Nm-b.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

that welder can run on 120v depending on the mode youre using....

 

[txvwnut]

It can but not a 20amp circuit.

 

[nadogail]

If in doubt, build for stout. Going large on your welder supply circuit will not bite you later when your desire for a bigger welder and you find that the minimum specification circuit you worked hard to install needs to be completely redone because you save a couple of dollars by using the smallest gauge wire you could getby with.

 

[Shop-hound]

Agreed. With such a short run, no sense trying to save a few $. Go # 6 and you’re future proofed if you get a larger machine that ***** more juice.

 

[MrBaku]

Thank you everyone for the help and advices!

Bought #6/2 ROMEX (prices are insane ) and will put it on a 50 AMP breaker. Also decided to put a second 20AMP circuit as well.

I have another question!

- I decided to bring 6/2 through the studs of the walls (4/4 in bore should suffice), instead of bringing them up to the ceiling. Garage walls are finished. Metal plates will only go to the side unfinished side as I understand the NEC rule correctly. Just need to make sure bore is far than 1 1/4 in away from the finished side. Correct?

 

[Sumboodie]

I haven't looked into the most recent NEC book, but it used to be that you could use #10 wire on a 50 amp welding outlet.

Reason is that a welder isn't a constant load.

 

[Sumboodie]

Thank you everyone for the help and advices!

Bought #6/2 ROMEX (prices are insane ) and will put it on a 50 AMP breaker. Also decided to put a second 20AMP circuit as well.

I have another question!

- I decided to bring 6/2 through the studs of the walls (4/4 in bore should suffice), instead of bringing them up to the ceiling. Garage walls are finished. Metal plates will only go to the side unfinished side as I understand the NEC rule correctly. Just need to make sure bore is far than 1 1/4 in away from the finished side. Correct?

Personally I've always put nail plate on any stud that has a wire or pipe in a place that MAY end up having a long screw run into the wall. IE, a garage wall.
Like let's say you are putting up a hose reel and fire in 2.5" screws for it, not thinking about it.

 

[MrBaku]

I haven't looked into the most recent NEC book, but it used to be that you could use #10 wire on a 50 amp welding outlet.

Reason is that a welder isn't a constant load.

Just wanted to future proof the circuit in case appetite increases

 

[MrBaku]

Personally I've always put nail plate on any stud that has a wire or pipe in a place that MAY end up having a long screw run into the wall. IE, a garage wall.
Like let's say you are putting up a hose reel and fire in 2.5" screws for it, not thinking about it.

Should I notch the studs instead of drilling it? Would like to avoid cutting up garage wall for those plates...

 

[Zeke]

Should I notch the studs instead of drilling it? Would like to avoid cutting up garage wall for those plates...

The plates nail on the surface. I don't see any finished walls in your pics so what are you referring to?

Safest way is to run the new cable high and I'd still use the plates. The light weight ones. And someone determined can run a screw through those but hopefully they'd run a finder over the wall where screws and nails might go. Someone with a nail gun will definitely penetrate the plates.

 

[MrBaku]

On the left, adjacent to the panel is the garage with finished wall. From what I've read, notching is not recommended. I feel like the only way is to cut sheet rock where the bored studs would be and attach the plates as well...