Outlet for dishwasher

[Zaffer]

I’ve searched and not been able to find the answer to my particular situation.

I have an island with a dishwasher in it. There is a regular outlet behind the dishwasher, in the dishwasher cavity, that is connected to a GFCI on the exterior of the island. Is this okay? I’ve read that the outlet needs to be readily accessible to disconnect, but the GFCI count as a disconnect if you can press the “Test” button to disconnect the outlet in the dishwasher cavity? If it’s an issue, I can move the outlet in the cavity to the sink cabinet.

Thanks!

 

[Snapped-off]

I tied my dishwashers simplex receptacle into the GFCI directly above my dishwasher.

You should get a code-compliant response soon though.

 

[Codyboy]

My dish washer is hard wired.

If she weren't and had a plug how would I keep her attached permanently to the kitchen?

 

[MovingAlong]

I’ve read that the outlet needs to be readily accessible to disconnect ...

Thanks!

So that we're all on the same page, where did you read this?

Would think that moving the receptacle would meet the requirement though, believe that's how I've seen most of them done.

 

[dscheidt]

I’ve searched and not been able to find the answer to my particular situation.

I have an island with a dishwasher in it. There is a regular outlet behind the dishwasher, in the dishwasher cavity, that is connected to a GFCI on the exterior of the island. Is this okay? I’ve read that the outlet needs to be readily accessible to disconnect, but the GFCI count as a disconnect if you can press the “Test” button to disconnect the outlet in the dishwasher cavity? If it’s an issue, I can move the outlet in the cavity to the sink cabinet.

Thanks!

GFCI are required to be readily accessible, but the outlet of the machine does not need to be. Your setup is fine.

 

[Rc_Guy]

GFCI are required to be readily accessible, but the outlet of the machine does not need to be. Your setup is fine.

correct

 

[sparky 1971]

At one time in the not too distant past it was ok to have a receptacle behind the dishwasher. I always thought that was stupid and would hardwire them with about 6' of romex that would get shoved under the dishwasher after it was installed. Now, the disconnect also has to be accessible so the outlets now usually go in the cabinet next to the DW, usually the sink cabinet with the cord passing through a hole drilled in the side. I've also seen them hardwired with a toggle switch above the countertop which is even dumber than the outlet behind the DW. Since yours is the way that it is, it probably also pre dates the GFCI requirements as well. The short answer is: don't worry about it because you have other violations of the current code as well and you probably don't want to go down that hole. The existing GFCI on the island is supposed to be part of the SABC's which doesn't include the DW. Outlets are also no longer allowed to be below the countertop, so if it's in the side or front like the old days, it's a no-no.

 

[Junkman]

I have two outlets that are located at the ends of the island; however, they have never been wired into the panel. The reason that they were never made live is because when the carpenter installed them, one was installed crooked. When I mentioned it to him, he just shrugged his shoulders and walked away. Later that day, I noticed that he had recut the second one to be crooked. I called the company and told them that I never wanted him to set foot on my property again, and explained why. The company owner came to assess the situation and commented that he would never return. He was fired the next day. I was so aggravated about it that I never completed the connection to the circuit breaker panel.

 

[mm08822]

I’ve searched and not been able to find the answer to my particular situation.

I have an island with a dishwasher in it. There is a regular outlet behind the dishwasher, in the dishwasher cavity, that is connected to a GFCI on the exterior of the island. Is this okay? I’ve read that the outlet needs to be readily accessible to disconnect, but the GFCI count as a disconnect if you can press the “Test” button to disconnect the outlet in the dishwasher cavity? If it’s an issue, I can move the outlet in the cavity to the sink cabinet.

Thanks!

If the outlet you are referring to is actually a receptacle with a cord plugged into it vs. a hard-wired piece of romex between an outlet box and washer, then that cord acts as the disconnect.

 

[Zaffer]

I appreciate all of the answers! Yes, the GFCI is on the side of the counter, not above the countertop. The receptacle for the dishwasher is connected to the GFCI, so the GFCI is between the panel and the receptacle that the dishwasher plugs into. The dishwasher is in its own circuit.

 

[TRWham]

I appreciate all of the answers! Yes, the GFCI is on the side of the counter, not above the countertop. The receptacle for the dishwasher is connected to the GFCI, so the GFCI is between the panel and the receptacle that the dishwasher plugs into. The dishwasher is in its own circuit.

Is this a dead-front GFCI that only protects the dishwasher?

 

[Zaffer]

TRWham, yes, it only protects the dishwasher. There are no other outlets attached to it other than the one behind the dishwasher.

 

[micromind]

I always leave about 5' of 14/2 stubbed under the DW and hard-wire it in.

If someone is not comfortable with the breaker being the disconnect, they can open the splice box under the DW and unsplice the black wires.

 

[no704]

Have a split plug in under the sink. One for dishwasher and one for disposal.

 

[mm08822]

I always leave about 5' of 14/2 stubbed under the DW and hard-wire it in.

If someone is not comfortable with the breaker being the disconnect, they can open the splice box under the DW and unsplice the black wires.

That doesn't meet code unless a cb lock is installed, local disconnect (in-site), lockable disconnect, or cb is in-site.

 

[larry4406]

In our new construction, we put a GFCI outlet inside the kitchen sink base cabinet for the dishwasher to plug into. It satisfies the GFCI requirement and acts as the local disconnect via unplugging without use of tools.

We also install a GFCI outlet inside the kitchen sink base cabinet for the disposal and its switched off the adjacent wall switch. Some clients select an air switch and when this happens, the wall switch is deleted and the outlet is always hot.

 

[mm08822]

In our new construction, we put a GFCI outlet inside the kitchen sink base cabinet for the dishwasher to plug into. It satisfies the GFCI requirement and acts as the local disconnect via unplugging without use of tools.

We also install a GFCI outlet inside the kitchen sink base cabinet for the disposal and its switched off the adjacent wall switch. Some clients select an air switch and when this happens, the wall switch is deleted and the outlet is always hot.

The undersink space works well when mentioned "appliances" are within/adjacent to the sink cabinet. OP's is an island located appliance.

 

[larry4406]

The undersink space works well when mentioned "appliances" are within/adjacent to the sink cabinet. OP's is an island located appliance.

I missed the island dishwasher placement of the OP. Thanks for pointing that out.

Our inspectors will not accept use of tools (ie screw drivers) to pull a dishwasher out to then unplug it. They would require an outlet in an adjacent cabinet that is readily accessible if plugged in. Or a GFCI breaker and lockout at the panel if direct wired.

If the DW is in the island without an adjacent sink, where is it discharging? Sorry if I missed something in the post...

 

[mm08822]

I missed the island dishwasher placement of the OP. Thanks for pointing that out.

Our inspectors will not accept use of tools (ie screw drivers) to pull a dishwasher out to then unplug it. They would require an outlet in an adjacent cabinet that is readily accessible if plugged in. Or a GFCI breaker and lockout at the panel if direct wired.

If the DW is in the island without an adjacent sink, where is it discharging? Sorry if I missed something in the post...

Ya, I don't know the discharge details, either, but not part of q. Anything I've ever done is adjacent to sink so I would have to dig deeper with a local inspector for their "requirement". I'm sure there could be good reasons from both sides as to why/why not corded plug behind washer should/should not fly.

 

[larry4406]

Ya, I don't know the discharge details, either, but not part of q. Anything I've ever done is adjacent to sink so I would have to dig deeper with a local inspector for their "requirement". I'm sure there could be good reasons from both sides as to why/why not corded plug behind washer should/should not fly.

The reasoning given by our inspectors is that its not accessible. Tools are required to jerk the dishwasher to get access to the plug. They require a "no tool" solution which I think is reasonable; not sure what the Code actually says.

 

[Zaffer]

I appreciate the answers and here is my response:

I ended up doing a direct wire to the dishwasher. I originally thought it was in its own circuit, but then I followed the wire in the basement and found it wired into a “junction box”, which was a single electrical box with no cover, which has since been corrected; the circuit it tied into was for the outlets in two of the upstairs bedrooms. The dishwasher is now on its own dedicated circuit.

As for the discharge, it is to the sink which is directly beside the dishwasher in the island.

My house was built in 1825, so lots of retrofits/tie ins that I’m still going through and correcting. We had the panel, meter, and electrical supply line from the pole upgraded from 100 amp service to 200 amp service when we moved in earlier this year.

 

[gahrajmahal]

To the OP, your town should have electrical permit instructions and detailed information what they require for dishwashers. Having an old home, I’m sure many things done in the past to those old codes would not meet today’s codes. Inspectors looking at my son’s 1923 home were very helpful and informative regarding what could be grandfathered in and what of the new wiring (2022) needed to be done a certain way. It’s possible a local “good” home inspector might know which version of all this advice applies to your specific home.

Let us know what the decision was!

 

[Zaffer]

I have a good electrician I can ask. He’s the one I had do my upgrade and I also play pickleball with him! I’ll see what he says on Sunday when I play with him. The framing for the dishwasher won’t be done for a week or so, which will provide me good access if I need to change anything in there.

I’ll report back with what he says.

 

[u2slow]

That doesn't meet code unless a cb lock is installed, local disconnect (in-site), lockable disconnect, or cb is in-site.

Hardwired - without any of that - met code for decades.

Unless a permit is being opened for the work, I recommend DIYers to stay with a similar Code-vintage as their home. Otherwise it begs the future question of "who updated the wiring? Where is the permit proving it was done properly/professionally?"

 

[75gmck25]

It's not clear how your final solution is configured, but I would strongly recommend having a dishwasher on a GFCI receptacle or GFCI breaker.
My point - dishwashers have a lot of pressurized water moving internally, and it could potentially mix with electricity.

I had an o-ring failure on a reservoir for anti-water-spotting fluid inside the dishwasher front panel. It only leaked for a short time as the fluid was pushed through and mixed with water, but still put out a lot of pressurized water, which then leaked out the bottom of the face of the dishwasher. All around that area was wiring for the control panel, water valves, and other parts, and the wiring was only protected by plastic splash shields (no real sealing). I was really surprised that water didn't get into something and cause an electrical problem.