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Outlet hole saw for oscalating tools?

jeffg

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Has anyone used one of those rectangle hole saws that fits on an oscalating tool for cutting in old work boxes? It seems like I always spend too much time cutting in boxes because I either make the hole to small or its too ragged to make a clean installation. The rectangular hole saw looks neat if it works at all.

Here is the link to the one I was looking at in the store.
 
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RTM

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Been written up here before, less than a year ago. Someone asked about them, don’t recall the results,

Try here

 
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zendriver

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SawdustTX

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Kinda late the game here, but yes, they are good. My son does home entertainment installs, got him one, he said it works well. For a homeowner doing that once in a while, probably not worth it, but for an installer who does this frequently, making one cut vs. measuring, marking, and making four cuts, definitely worth it.
 

Mandres

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The biggest downside I see to that saw is that you're limited to that exact size. There are lots of different styles of old work boxes out there. If you use a "smartbox" style you need to be right on the stud which, like The Cobbler pointed out, you need to feel around for with a jab saw anyway.

It's a clever idea but not all that practical in use.
 

Mr_fixit

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I fell for the dust thrower 2000, aka rotozip. So I'm not going to fall for this $50 dollar blade. They only work on drywall, and I haven't used them. Sure there's 40 china knock off blades for about half price . I'm guessing my 1 hand saw and my other hand operating the vacuum will make less mess for about the same overall time, counting clean up. And my hand can feel the side of a joist, let's so you do that with a oscillating tool. I do own an oscillating tool, which is very valuable for some uses.
I don't know how many holes a person will do on a job, 2 or 3? but I'd prefer the accuracy of my hand. Call me old , or call me old school.
 

Indexmill

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Thanks; but y'all are missing the question... We all know well how an OMT works.

How can the outlet box cutter work? By definition, 2 of the 4 sides of the box cutter are perpendicular to each other. I can obviously see how any pair can cut fine when in line with the oscillation. But how do the other 2 (that are SQUARE to the direction of vibration) actually cut at the same time? Think about it. Hence, has anybody ever actually used one; and can they answer the question.
 

seber

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Thanks; but y'all are missing the question... We all know well how an OMT works.

How can the outlet box cutter work? By definition, 2 of the 4 sides of the box cutter are perpendicular to each other. I can obviously see how any pair can cut fine when in line with the oscillation. But how do the other 2 (that are SQUARE to the direction of vibration) actually cut at the same time? Think about it. Hence, has anybody ever actually used one; and can they answer the question.
 
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Kenstone1

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Kinda late the game here, but yes, they are good. My son does home entertainment installs, got him one, he said it works well. For a homeowner doing that once in a while, probably not worth it, but for an installer who does this frequently, making one cut vs. measuring, marking, and making four cuts, definitely worth it.
I simply turn the box over, position it on the wall, and trace around it, so not a lot of measuring/marking.
Then just cut on the lines with a standard oscillating blade, no need for that $45 blade, but I don't make a living doing this.
That, and 2 of the sides will have a curve because the tool moves thru an arc, which 2 sides is dependent on how you attached the box blade.
jmo,
 
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SawdustTX

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That, and 2 of the sides will have a curve because the tool moves thru an arc, which 2 sides is dependent on how you attached the box blade.
jmo,
The arc of an oscillating tool is so small there's no curve, it leaves a square hole, or if it's there I can't see it and probably straighter than a freehand cut with a straight blade (at least if I'm the one doing it). Agree for a homeowner doing it once in a while, I wouldn't spend $50 for one and I try to keep my tool count down. but for someone like my son doing this daily, you can leave it in the tool, just grab and cut, the whole hole (chuckle) done in seconds.
 

Kenstone1

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The arc of an oscillating tool is so small there's no curve, it leaves a square hole, or if it's there I can't see it and probably straighter than a freehand cut with a straight blade (at least if I'm the one doing it). Agree for a homeowner doing it once in a while, I wouldn't spend $50 for one and I try to keep my tool count down. but for someone like my son doing this daily, you can leave it in the tool, just grab and cut, the whole hole (chuckle) done in seconds.
The Arc
I understand why you could SEE IT that way, but the pictures/vids in this thread seem to show something different.

I think how you mount that box blade onto the saw determines how much arc and which sides will not be straight.
Some boxes sold today mount to the drywall, so the hole profile/size is critical for a stable box install, for me it's sort of like a thumb press fit.
just me though,
:D
.
 
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RTM

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Watching the MANYYYYYyyy videos (some awful long) out there, seems to be relatively square compared to the box. By centering the mount on the tool, they have minimized the arc. Looks like looser than thumb fit, but tight enough it isn't going anywhere. Funny one video is for square boxes as used in Europe, guy talks funny too.
 

dmacedo

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The Harbor Freight version is much cheaper, and works. I use it for the few times I have to put OLD WORK boxes in for hanging TV's etc.
I have no complaints. Works well!
 

LukeOresk

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I’ve used this one because we had to do the job quick as a surprise for my buddy’s dad. Worked great. I’m sure you could just measure and use the straight blade but where’s the fun in that.


If you plan on using it a bunch I’d get one. One time meh, use the straight blade and measure.
 

SawdustTX

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I understand why you would feel that way, but the pictures/vids in this thread seem to show something different.
My comments based on using it, not "feel that way". :) I try to avoid expressing opinions, assumptions, and presumptions in these forums, way too much of that going around. I try to comment only when I have actual experience. Anyway, it's a hole, behind a cover plate, for a box with secure mounting tabs, has worked well for us, your mileage may vary.
 

theoldwizard1

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I saw a similar model used on YouTube. After a couple of holes, he went back to his Rotozip.

A related tool. You snap a piece with built in magenta into the box. Install the drywall. Another tool, also with magnets lines up directly on top. Trace with pencil. Cut with your favorite drywall tool.
 

RTM

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A related tool. You snap a piece with built in magnets into the box. Install the drywall. Another tool, also with magnets lines up directly on top. Trace with pencil. Cut with your favorite drywall tool.
Saw that while watching the inane videos, it popped up in the queue. guess someone saw a need, I don't do enough drywall to care.
 

zendriver

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Thanks; but y'all are missing the question... We all know well how an OMT works.

How can the outlet box cutter work? By definition, 2 of the 4 sides of the box cutter are perpendicular to each other. I can obviously see how any pair can cut fine when in line with the oscillation. But how do the other 2 (that are SQUARE to the direction of vibration) actually cut at the same time? Think about it. Hence, has anybody ever actually used one; and can they answer the question.
Maybe two of the blades are cutting perpendicular the teeth are cutting from the side.

it is cutting half inch (or less) of plaster after all.
 
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Kenstone1

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My comments based on using it, not "feel that way". :) I try to avoid expressing opinions, assumptions, and presumptions in these forums, way too much of that going around. I try to comment only when I have actual experience. Anyway, it's a hole, behind a cover plate, for a box with secure mounting tabs, has worked well for us, your mileage may vary.
I fixed it for ya
yes, I'm an idiot
so, there's that
:D
.
 
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Kenstone1

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I saw a similar model used on YouTube. After a couple of holes, he went back to his Rotozip.

A related tool. You snap a piece with built in magenta into the box. Install the drywall. Another tool, also with magnets lines up directly on top. Trace with pencil. Cut with your favorite drywall tool.
As I see it, this box cutting tool being discussed is for an "old work" box, as in the drywall is already installed (old work) and the box is installed thru the hole.
The related tool you are describing is used for "new work", where the box is installed/stud mounted before drywall is installed, i.e., drywall not installed.
jmo,
.
 
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