Outlet Locations? Somewhat Unique Situation

[El_Diablo]

Hi guys,

I have a small 1.5 car garage with a loft. The issue is that the roof slant/rafters come down to within about 18 inches of the floor. I'm having a hard time deciding if I should build out from the current (short) cinder block knee wall with a short 2x4 knee wall or if I should just put the new outlets 48 inches off of the floor and have them on the angled portion of the wall. I'm leaning towards 48 inches off the ground on the slanted underside of the roof but I'm not sure if this will cause issues in any ways or if it will even be practical in every day use.

Any ideas or suggestions?


If only it was cheap/easy to shed dormer the roof, lol.

 

[James-W]

A couple pictures would be beneficial. It has been a long day and I am having a little difficulty picturing this in my mind.

 

[bgarrett]

Good outlets require about 3 ounces of pull to release but worn outlets may be hard to keep plugged in if they face down

 

[El_Diablo]

Some pictures. As you can see, building a knee wall would tuck them back out of the usable space quite a lot which is why I'm leaning towards hanging them on the diagonal, 48 inches from the floor.

 

[mm08822]

Add a short 2x4 to the side of the rafter so it is vertical and doesnt go lower than rafter face. Nail box to 2x4 and it will then be horizontal. A knee wall would waste too much space.

 

[dfiler2]

What will the room be used for? If it is something where you would be plugging and unplugging things often I would go with the outlets on the slope, if it is used for an office or an entertainment area I think I would put them on the knee wall. I'm assuming you have two end walls won't be an issue.

 

[El_Diablo]

I use it as a powder coating shop and machine/work shop area for now. I have a 4'x4'x6' Oven in the same room as well as a residential oven and my air compressor. I plan to move my workbench up there and use the shorter portion (where you cant really walk) as storage for engines, powder coating materials and so on.

I'll be finishing the room with insulation and drywall as soon as I figure out how I want to run the electrical. With that being said, I don't really want to have to finish around each outlet so I'm not to keen on mounting them vertical higher up on the wall. I think I'll just mount them on the angle. If I have any issues I'll simply add hooks to loop the cords on to in order to keep downward pressure low.

 

[CNGsaves]

Where are you located ??

How to you plan on insulating that ?? Appears you're going for perimeter shell, so only potential of 6" of batt insulation (and right next to roof ??) . . . or you using foam ??

Have you considered putting outlets in "floor" with the screw-in covers ??

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

How are the floor joists supported?
Anyway Id build some knee walls and mount them to that.

 

[My Old Tools]

I sure wouldn't want to get down that low to plug and unplug. I think mounting on the rafter would be fine, but a knee wall would eliminate the dust trap those low corners create.

 

[CJ7VFR]

Can you temporarily mount the boxes and outlets on the studs where you think you might want them, before you put up any insulation and drywall, and then see if having the outlets on an angle cause you any problems?

You may find they that they work just fine at an angle, and then your problem is solved. If they don't work, and even putting some type of cord holder doesn't work either, then you will have your answer as to whether or not you can do it that way with the walls finished off.

One other option you can do, that would add a bit more work on your part, would be instead of an entire knee wall, you could build in a small area, like a mini knee wall, between two studs, where you could mount the outlets so they would be vertical.

It would be like a small indentation in the wall instead of having a complete knee wall.

Just a thought.

Jim

 

[Off-Street Parking]

I could see the angled location being a problem for larger "wall wart" power bricks that expect to hang from the outlets...

 

[El_Diablo]

Where are you located ??

How to you plan on insulating that ?? Appears you're going for perimeter shell, so only potential of 6" of batt insulation (and right next to roof ??) . . . or you using foam ??

Have you considered putting outlets in "floor" with the screw-in covers ??

I'm located in northern Ohio. I'm planning on 6 inch insulation which will still leave an air gap on the 8" rafters.

I'm not to fond of floor outlets just due to the types of equipment I use up in the loft.

How are the floor joists supported?
Anyway Id build some knee walls and mount them to that.

The blocks that you can see in the pictures are "half width" cinder blocks. The joists sit on top of the full width cinder blocks that make up the lower portion of the building.

I'm leaning towards a knee wall with lighting and storage space inside. I'll have to insulate all the way down though as I would be creating a large cold zone if I just followed the knee wall down.

One other option you can do, that would add a bit more work on your part, would be instead of an entire knee wall, you could build in a small area, like a mini knee wall, between two studs, where you could mount the outlets so they would be vertical.

It would be like a small indentation in the wall instead of having a complete knee wall.

Just a thought.

Jim

I like that idea but I dont like the idea of limited insulation in the indented portion.

I could see the angled location being a problem for larger "wall wart" power bricks that expect to hang from the outlets...

Good point, you may have just swayed me to a knee wall with storage access.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd put in a knee wall myself. It would **** to lose floor space behind the knee wall but how useful is it going to be at that low height ?

Putting in a knee wall also gives you some storage like you mentioned and an easier solution for insulating.

 

[Jawn]

I like that idea but I dont like the idea of limited insulation in the indented portion.

So instead of indenting a small space to mount the outlets, how about a small projection from the "ceiling" to have outlets with the correct orientation?

 

[ard]

I'd put in a knee wall myself. It would **** to lose floor space behind the knee wall but how useful is it going to be at that low height ?

Putting in a knee wall also gives you some storage like you mentioned and an easier solution for insulating.

Im with this.

That space is going to wind up being just odd **** in the long run. By making a knee wall, sheetrocking it, you create a nice clean workspace that is well defined without that odd, small noman's land. Leave access to the space on the end (or middle) and fill it with the same junk that would have collected anyway. But this way it is out of sight. You could frame racks for pipe, conduit, wood. long stuff, etc. especially if you can have access to the ends.

 

[Off-Street Parking]

So instead of indenting a small space to mount the outlets, how about a small projection from the "ceiling" to have outlets with the correct orientation?

You could combine this with some "sideways" outlets to minimize the size of the protrusion for the electrical box.

 

[dave*99]

While I do think a knee wall is the best solution for many reasons stated in the replies, mounting the outlets flush with the angled ceiling is not a problem.

My garage door openers plug into ceiling mounted outlets. So do many shop lights etc.

I have a drop light with a large plug containing the ballast. It looks like a large wall wart. It never falls out of the ceiling mounted outlet.

 

[Dustball]

I came across this-

The UK calls it a pedestal box to make "bench sockets"-

You could surface mount it to your angled wall. I have no idea if the outlet mounting holes will work though.

 

[Speedy Petey]

Some pictures. As you can see, building a knee wall would tuck them back out of the usable space quite a lot which is why I'm leaning towards hanging them on the diagonal, 48 inches from the floor.

I would put them exactly like this first pic in this post. Absolutely no reason not to IMO.

 

[justsam]

You could combine this with some "sideways" outlets to minimize the size of the protrusion for the electrical box.

Off topic but I have been looking for some Decora receptacles as you have shown where the mounting is horizontal and prong orientation remains vertical. I have looked at both Lutron and Leviton with no luck.

Do you know the manufacturer of what is shown? My application does not need to be GFCI.

 

[Speedy Petey]

Do you know the manufacturer of what is shown? My application does not need to be GFCI.

Those are Eagle and not available any more as far as I know.

You do require GFI protection for regular 120V receptacles in a garage, everywhere in a garage under newer codes.

 

[Off-Street Parking]

Those are Eagle and not available any more as far as I know.

Yep, Eagle. There are a few on eBay both new and used... That's the only source I am aware of.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Those are Eagle and not available any more as far as I know.

I have one in a bathroom with sideways outlets. Its pretty crappy, no terminals on it, just four inch pigtails sticking out of it.

If the OP uses good spec grade receptacles, there will be no problem with stuff coming unplugged. They will be so tight that you have to wiggle and work with everything to get it unplugged.

Charles