Outside Receptacle at Patio

[ColoradoToy91]

I am finishing up a landscaping and patio project. I am running low voltage for my lighting, but the wife asked about some string lights on the pergola...

Sooo now I am looking into running 120v out to the patio for a receptacle. What would be the most effective way to accomplish this. Run would be about 30 ft from the house and would go under about 10ft of concrete.

Thank you

 

[wyliesdiesels]

3/4" PVC, 3 conductors of #12 THWN- one each color black white and green. 20a GFCI breaker or regular breaker and GFCI outlet.

 

[acer66]

My electrician here in NC failed inspection because he did not use a weather resistant rated receptacle even it was protected with a proper cover, not sure if that is the same in CO.

 

[checkthisout]

I am finishing up a landscaping and patio project. I am running low voltage for my lighting, but the wife asked about some string lights on the pergola...

Sooo now I am looking into running 120v out to the patio for a receptacle. What would be the most effective way to accomplish this. Run would be about 30 ft from the house and would go under about 10ft of concrete.

Thank you

Junction box on existing exterior outlet, conduit into ground then the following:

Then, rig it up how Wiley's said or put it on the load of the existing GFCI.

(you've left a lot of variables open or exactly what information you need)

 

[Cmreschke]

My electrician here in NC failed inspection because he did not use a weather resistant rated receptacle even it was protected with a proper cover, not sure if that is the same in CO.

Is the same. It's an nec requirement. I think it's ****

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

My electrician here in NC failed inspection because he did not use a weather resistant rated receptacle even it was protected with a proper cover, not sure if that is the same in CO.

Yep .You need to have a tamper resistant and weather resistant recept out there,whether its a gfi or not with an in use cover.
Things just keep getting stupider and stupider with the rules.

 

[Teken]

What are people referring to when they say *Weather Resistant* outlet?!?! The outlet isn't weather resistant its the enclosure that protects the outlet whether it be a standard outlet, GFCI, etc.

Some require the bubble cover for *In Use* which makes sense because there is almost no possibility for water to shoot up into the outlet while this cover is in place. Given most of them now have a grommet that hugs tight against the cord when the cover is shut closed.

Is there something else some of you are referring too? I link of this weather resistant outlet would be great to see otherwise.

 

[acer66]

What are people referring to when they say *Weather Resistant* outlet?!?! The outlet isn't weather resistant its the enclosure that protects the outlet whether it be a standard outlet, GFCI, etc.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...ant-GFCI-Outlet-White-R02-GFWT1-0KW/205996792

Note the WR at the lower left on the receptacle.

 

[Teken]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...ant-GFCI-Outlet-White-R02-GFWT1-0KW/205996792

Note the WR at the lower left on the receptacle.

That's interesting, I've seen them in the stores before like HD but it obviously didn't register in my head.

Its obvious the current NEC vs the older CEC codes are more stringent than years past. Taking a quick look at the exterior GFCI's the builder installed do not show the WR name plate.

Ironically, the one I installed does in fact have a WR in the garage when I did my first rounds of wiring.

It must have been dumb luck or it was in my head when I bought it! It appears to me the difference on the surface is that it uses the shutters similar to the *Tamper Proof* as a means to negate water penetration.

I am sure it may have other attributes like better temperature rating and moisture tolerances etc.

Thank you for reminding me of this I appreciate it!

 

[Teken]

Its interesting to note unless there is a photo error from the HD website the Canadian site doesn't show the WR logo yet they say its weather / tamper resistant: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p....-gfci-wled-locator-lightwhite.1000687134.html

 

[acer66]

Its interesting to note unless there is a photo error from the HD website the Canadian site doesn't show the WR logo yet they say its weather / tamper resistant: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p....-gfci-wled-locator-lightwhite.1000687134.html

That looks like an error with the pic, they are normally marked with the symbols on the front so they can be identified.
Here a picture, from the same site, of a different TR receptacle.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p....e-with-wallplate-15a-in-white.1000741582.html

 

[Teken]

That looks like an error with the pic, they are normally marked with the symbols on the front so they can be identified.
Here a picture, from the same site, of a different TR receptacle.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p....e-with-wallplate-15a-in-white.1000741582.html

I have to agree it must be a photo error because the one I installed more than five years ago has the WR logo imprinted into the front case. Its odd the Canadian site shows no 15 amp versions but only the 20 amp configuration?

Also to note the link you offered also includes the self test feature which back in the day was a separate model and costs $10-15.00 more for said feature. Its great to see they included that self test feature because it offers so much more safety to those who almost never do the monthly checks.

Interesting also is that the link you referenced indicates it uses only one LED vs the the two LED display I have and see in the other model.

 

[Mustang51js]

Weather resistant outlets have stainless screws,but they are a waist of money to me. They usually go bad before they rot away compared to a normal outlet.

 

[Cmreschke]

Stainless screws and contacts at 2 times the price or better, instead of brass screws and contacts (standard in most receptacles. Brass is sufficient for weather resistance otherwise you wouldn't use it in plumbing. Brass cost more to make and fetches more per pound at the scrap yard. They are using a lower cost material and charging us more.
Yes I know the yoke is made of stainless as well as the mounting screws but cmon really not worth the extra cost for a device that will be hardly used compared to the rest.

 

[checkthisout]

Stainless screws and contacts at 2 times the price or better, instead of brass screws and contacts (standard in most receptacles. Brass is sufficient for weather resistance otherwise you wouldn't use it in plumbing. Brass cost more to make and fetches more per pound at the scrap yard. They are using a lower cost material and charging us more.
Yes I know the yoke is made of stainless as well as the mounting screws but cmon really not worth the extra cost for a device that will be hardly used compared to the rest.

The cover probably plays more of a role than anything in the life of the outlet.

 

[Cmreschke]

Agreed.

 

[Cmreschke]

Plus we are mounting them to aluminum boxes and running these screws into aluminum screw holes. We don't worry about dissimilar metals there. Oxidation plays a huge factor but that's ok. Covers have standard steel screws, that's ok too. The weather resistant receptacle is just a money grab. Imo.

 

[ColoradoToy91]

Thanks for all the responses guys.

Can I run this in the same trench as my 1" PVC sprinkler line or would that not be advisable?

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Weather resistant outlets have stainless screws,but they are a waist of money to me. They usually go bad before they rot away compared to a normal outlet.

Its just another way for somebody to make a buck in my book,But if the work is getting inspected what can you do?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Yup! A money grab for sure!!

 

[Teken]

The cover probably plays more of a role than anything in the life of the outlet.

I have to agree with those also using the *In Use* covers or even those cheap grey foam style spring loaded covers so many of us are used to seeing. As the other member indicated many of these devices don't last very long in hot humid climates.

I believe each of the devices from AFCI, GFCI, all play an important role in terms of human safety. The biggest problem is when the hardware first came on the scene they were not designed very well.

Hence all of the nuance trips people often complain about.

You can see by the link the other member offered for the WR unit they specifically indicate it surpasses the UL testing and requirements. Either the standard was set too low back in the day or the manufacture believes doing so increases safety, performance, and reduces nuance trip condition(s).

I hazard to guess if all of the different brand makers of service panels had a reasonable price for the breakers there wouldn't be so much resistance in buying them during a reno.