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Overhead door jackshaft location?

MikeC55

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I'm looking at feasibility of installing a 12' wide x 7' tall overhead garage door but with an unusual track to limit ceiling area incursion (for a lift). The sketch shows what I have in mind but if the jackshaft must locate above or at the max track height, then I'd have to go with a narrower door for more end clearance. Looking at my current (8' ceiling, horizontal track) set up, it does appear that it has to be this way because otherwise, the jackshaft would need clearance between door frame and track (track would need to move away from door frame). Since I also want to use a jackshaft door opener, that would require more door narrowing. I'm limited in how far the door can travel back toward rear of garage by a ridge beam post. Any ideas to preserve 12' door width?
 

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racecougar

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I don't see a jackshaft opener working out in that configuration, as the door will be nearly balanced over the loop when open. Turning the jackshaft to close the door will almost certainly just unspool the cable from the drum.
 
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MikeC55

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Anyone do anything like this?
 

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B3D3G1

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I had a similar issue. My motor interferes just with the drywall / insulation. For some reason, the relocation wasn't going to work when I asked the contractor. I have a 10'x18' insulated door so maybe it is weight related or maybe it is something structural.
I was planning to put up some trim around the opening in the ceiling but it's low priority. Haven't had any issues with this.
garagedoor.png
 

wssix99

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The textbook solution to the drum would be to use a low headroom track with a rear mount drum. (Clopay and other manufacturers make them.)

cto_07_low-headroom-rear-mount.png

^ However, you may not be able to find a jackshaft opener that will work since they typically need to be wall-mounted.
 
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MikeC55

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That would put the open door well into the OP's lift space, too.
Exactly, the whole reason for using the 'U' is to allow me to lift cars with the door fully open. I wonder if I could install a compression spring at end of each track to push on door to keep tension on cables?
 

racecougar

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Cable keepers won’t solve the issue of the “U” track. Compression springs could make that arrangement work.
 

Innovate1

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I would think some springs to keep tension on the cables by putting pressure on the top end of the door near the end of travel would work. Would need to have several feet of travel. Or maybe some sort of counterweight that only affects the last few feet of travel.
 
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MikeC55

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It looks like a can reduce the likelihood of cable problems if I narrow the door to 10' and raise the max height of track. This keeps the door unbalanced with heavier end still on front side. I don't think it would be too difficult to rig up some compression springs to act on the top door edge in case it was opened to far by hand.
 

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