To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Overhead door seal corners?

Red89gt

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
302
Location
Albany, OH
You guys have solution or product to seal corners of the overhead door when closed?

My property has a consistent wind that pushes water through. Putting a rag cuts water significantly but I would like to figure out a solution and so far no luck on my own.

Afternoon sun making look a lot larger than it actually is.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6635.jpeg
    IMG_6635.jpeg
    463.9 KB · Views: 54
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
R

Red89gt

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
302
Location
Albany, OH
Threshold seal flush to concrete. Door seal also good. Wind pushing water along edges and gets in pencil eraser gap at most. I have a rag jammed in there during last week of heavy rain and very little got through versus no rag and small puddle.

No rag:

IMG_5798.jpeg

IMG_5540.jpeg
 

wssix99

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2011
Messages
5,159
Location
Chicago, IL
This is how every garage door I've ever seen looks. Lots of **** in those corners.

Typically the threshold would be sloped outward to keep water from flowing in and dust lips also help, but it looks like you don't have these features.

A saw cut joint to create a "gutter" in front of the door may help.
 
OP
R

Red89gt

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
302
Location
Albany, OH
Concrete guy didn’t get enough slope across the opening. Definitely the root cause. Can’t make change at this point and really don’t want him grinding on it.
 

wssix99

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2011
Messages
5,159
Location
Chicago, IL
No seal will overcome water + gravity unless the door is sealed shut. You will need something to redirect the water.

Best case scenario with a seal would be that it will pool outside the door and then come in when you open the door.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

CraigStu

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2014
Messages
4,023
Location
Blacksburg, Va
Looks to me like a combination problem. First the seal on the door opening stops 1/4"(?) above the concrete. Second the seal on the bottom of the door is just a little narrower than the door. So you end up w/ an opening the height of the seal and the width = to however narrower the seal is than the door. For the first I'd carefully pry both of the side seals off. Most likely the nails spacing is probably random so if you swap side to side you can use the existing holes in the seals but they will nail into fresh wood when you position them in contact w/ the concrete. I'd also position the seals so they contact the door w/ more pressure, especially the bottom half or so. As they are I can see wind pushing the door in so it loses contact w/ the seals. For the bottom seal I don't have a good solution. Maybe someone else will.
 

loganb

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
5,514
Location
Omaha, NE
It looks like you could also adjust that track to pull the panel closer to the wall and tighten up that gap. Hard to tell but just looks like the panel is sitting farther back off the framing and means that the exterior garage door seal/weatherstrip isn't overlaying the panels as much which may contribute to some of this as well.
 

andyvh1959

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 15, 2020
Messages
2,590
Location
Green Bay WI
Same for all the replies above. The seal on the bottom of the door does help but the corners/ends of those seals tend to get beat up and torn. Maybe also glue down some sort of bulb seal, about 6" long, with 3" into the door opening. So when the door comes down it squashes the seal down to fill that bottom corner gap area. A seal any longer than that into the door opening area will only get torn out in no time.
 

Fav Onefour

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 14, 2022
Messages
701
Location
MN cold and hot
First try to adjust your rails tighter to the jamb. The gap to frame is currently quite wide. Door seals are not really designed to cover gaps that wide. In your current setup the seals are just barely touching the door.

Unfortunately, that doesn't really address the bottom corner. Are you opposed to replacing the vertical seal-trim sections? I typically cut the side trim to full length to the concrete and leave the seal longer. I taper cut the seal at roughly 45 degree. The long end overlaps onto the concrete and short end of taper ends at the end of trim piece. The long end of seal holds up fairly well because it isn't stressed by contact with the door.

I'll be danged. I found a video that explains what I was trying to type. :)
That might make more sense.
 

Gytrdun

New member
Joined
Jan 3, 2025
Messages
1
The best I could come up with is a product on Amazon similar to "Garage Door Bottom Threshold Seal Strip", as to not promote a specific product. I cleaned the cement, and then glued that down with construction adhesive. I've done this to the last 2 garages and it work fairly well. I also replaced the bottom seal of the garage door at the same time. In the corners where you are having an issue, you can run it past the track by cutting it to size. I then caulked the little that was left, but I was being a bit... picky. Your results may vary, but it's a cheap solution worth a shot. It's worked well in north WI/MN for years. I've still had small leaks, but they were heavy rain storms.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom