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Overhead door seal

USAFpj

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Dec 8, 2015
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Upstate, SC
Both my 10x10 and 12x10 insulated doors were installed before the concrete was poured.

At night, I can see light peeking through the bottom seal of both doors. Both doors are new as of about 2 months ago as well, so I wonder if they just need to be 'broken in'. The gap isn't all the way across, but where there is a gap, I would say it's just enough to let the light through. The slab is level, too.

Am I expecting too much out of an overhead door?
 
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lakeroadster

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Central Colorado
.... The gap isn't all the way across, but where there is a gap, I would say it's just enough to let the light through.

The slab is level, too.

Am I expecting too much out of an overhead door?

Not expecting too much..

Manual latching doors or using an opener?

I had to adjust my 3 doors on my new pole barn after the slab was poured. They are manual doors with no opener. It was a simple task of unbolting the locking mechanism, lowering the door to the fully closed position, and then re-attaching the locking mechanism.
 
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Marctrees

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TX/LA border - Toledo Bend
If the door is just plain a bit too high overall, and "cannot" be adjusted down, so remove weatherstrip and shim down with something,treated wood maybe, maybe ripped to appropriate thickness, or stock 3/4", and adjust door latch up a bit.

AND, be aware there are different garage door bottom weatherstrips available, some ****, others good and more flexible/ varying height forgiving.

Just alternate thoughts. Marc
 

BillK

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Beautiful Southern Maryland
The gap isn't all the way across, but where there is a gap, I would say it's just enough to let the light through.

If that is the case then the concrete probably is not straight at that point. There is probably a low spot. Take a good straight 2x4 or a long level and lay across that area and I bet you will find low spots. You can probably use some patching compound to make it straight.

If its a metal door I doubt that the door is the problem.
 

Falcon67

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Merkel, TX
If it's a normal D shaped rubber seal like under most doors, try running a length of 1/2" clear plastic tubing through the inside of the seal. Get it at most home centers.
 

66HertzClone

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Dec 6, 2006
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Long Valley, NJ
Have a long level? Draw a chalk line across the floor where the door rests and see how level your floor is. I taped a laser pointer to my level and used a paint stirrer that I slid along the line to find low spots and measure the distance. I have not done it yet but plan to purchase a synthetic 2 x 4 and cut it to match the floor contour giving the door something flat to rest against. My slab drops over an inch on both sides of each of the three doors.
 
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kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
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"Adjust the down force on the opener- that is if you have openers. "
That is my answer.
You will have to "sneak up on it" to get it right.
A quarter of a turn, or less back and forth, per try.
But, with patience, you can get the door to just kiss the slab.
 
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USAFpj

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Upstate, SC
I'm still working with it, guys- and thank you for the feedback.

I find it interesting that the company doesn't mind charging a large sum for their insulated overhead doors- and I don't mind paying.

However, they use the most ridiculous and lock mechanism to secure the entire door! Any time you adjust the lock to fully seat the door, it moves just slightly to leave that crack at the bottom again. The side seals aren't the best either- had to throw a couple of more small nails in it to secure the stripping.

Is it unreasonable to have zero openings in a 10x12 door?
 

DeliveryGuy

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May 12, 2013
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Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
I'm glad my boss refuses to install garage doors without a floor. This is always an issue. Years ago, I installed door before the slab was poured, and there was JUST enough headroom for the door including the thickness of the slab. The floor was poured way too thick, buries the bottom few inches of track, now the door doesn't close without the top panel kicked back, and you can't just adjust it in because the panel will hit the springs. Customer gets pissed at us because his "buddy" says "they should be able to fix that."

Our company owns a smooth floor scissor lift. I've towed it to jobs were there's no floor, and the contractor expects me to call Hertz to rent an offroad lift for these 16ft tall doors. I don't think so. The signed contract says "Installation in finished floor only". I'm not working on surge rock and gravel because you don't want to buy a tarp. Can you tell this is a bitter topic for me?? lol
 

BillK

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However, they use the most ridiculous and lock mechanism to secure the entire door! Any time you adjust the lock to fully seat the door, it moves just slightly to leave that crack at the bottom again.

I may be wrong but I have never thought that the lock assembly was designed to hold the door tightly sealed to the ground. Every garage door I have had over the last 40 years or so always stayed closed by itself if the springs were adjusted properly. They have always needed a little lift to get them to open. With an opener, the opener should hold it closed if it is adjusted properly.

I wonder if they have your springs adjusted a little tight to compensate for the fact they will probably lose a little tension in the first few months ? Does the door stay closed by itself ?
 
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USAFpj

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Upstate, SC
Bill, you're onto something. The doors will open about a solid 3 feet on their own unless I hold it. The 10x10 may even go all the way up on its own; I haven't tried to let it.

DeliveryGuy- yeah, you'd like mine as well! The bottom of the track on my 10x12 is indeed buried in the slab. I noticed that the top panel was not flush as well, but I was able to adjust that one on my own.

The doors are made in the US, and placed in by a local company- I'll give it a few months, then check on adjustment. I'd rather them be too heavy, than light, though...
 
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