Overhead door without ceiling pain

[m123]

Hello,

Just curious thoughts on this. Building new garage and I do not have the money at this time to finish the inside, but will get my 3 overhead garage doors installed to seal it up. Is it that much of a hassle to finish the ceiling after the doors are installed? I don't even know what I am going to finish the ceiling with at this time, (drywall, plywood, metal)

I am thinking the door track and motor will be mounted directly to the trusses, and then later I'll just have to take everything down when I decide what to do. Shouldn't be that big of a deal right? Some people have told me I need to decide what I'm finishing the ceiling with and get it partially installed before I get the doors professionally installed.

 

[Bsj04]

I install doors first, ceiling later and it wasnt that difficult to work around. I left the tracks alone but removed the brackets that connect the tracks to the ceiling. Obviously do not open the door during this time. I did one at a time just incase I needed to open another door for something. Door openers can be easily removed also

 

[bullnerd]

I had to remove the brackets also, no big deal. Can still open the door most of the way without the braces attached. Its pretty clear how far you can go when you do it.

I do wish I trimmed around the o-doors before installing them though! If you plan on doing aluminum or painting, DO IT NOW!

 

[matt_i]

Right or wrong, I cut a 5/8" shim to act as the drywall thickness so the track hanger doesn't have to be rebuilt. Also I added a full 2x6 cleat both sides so there's no lack of framing to attach the track to...this is in response to my other garage where the track hangers were almost "toenailed" with screws...into a joist that was close by with no other solid wood around. The original 1-1/2" long hex screws was nearly completely stripped on one end due to same. I went back with the long GRK RSS screws but didn't want any issues.

 

[rsanter]

Not a big deal. Who knows if you will ever put a ceiling in anyway.
You could paint all of the inside under the roof white and leave it open. I think they look nice that way and you will have some space to store long material and ladders

Bob

 

[sierradmax]

It's not that bad to rock after garage door framing is up. I would suggest that you install ferring, though to your joists/trusses. I waited after the garage door framing was complete and the guy who installed anchored the framing to the trusses not paying attention to truss spacing. I had to re-anchor the frames when I plywood'ed the 2nd floor to my garage and ran ferring below to get 24" O.C. truss spacing.

 

[Gerald O]

Right or wrong, I cut a 5/8" shim to act as the drywall thickness so the track hanger doesn't have to be rebuilt. Also I added a full 2x6 cleat both sides so there's no lack of framing to attach the track to...

I did much the same. I used actual pieces of 5/8 sheetrock.
Made the sheetrocking easier when I did that later.

 

[m123]

So now if I want to add 1/2 plywood to the ceiling, that will drop the tracks and the motor track down 1/2". Won't that cause problems with the door not being level now?

 

[LXCam]

You shouldn't have any issues adjusting the bracket but why don't you just cut up some 1/2" plywood trimmers to go under the brackets for now and then you can just remove them when you're ready to sheet it.

 

[matt_i]

The punched angle has a pretty good bit of "windage" built into it from what I found, from the oversized holes vs. the bolt diameter. You can "push" it in a direction, takeup the slack, and tighten the bolts there and it will hold due to the friction. You might have to jump a set of holes for 1/2" plywood thickness, which may be 3/4" centers (? forgot) and then push back the other way.