Overhead LED light suggestion for Bodyshop

[motofool33]

Need some suggestions on LED light Fixtures above body shop area, There is Frame Machine, paint Booth and 2-3 car work areas.

Currently they have like 6 or 8 2 bulb florescent fixtures some working some not. and one Big *** LED light in front of the entrance to paint booth.

I'm probably going to retrofit the other building mechanic shop with 325watt James LED Linear Fixtures like i did my garage unless i can find a better Fixture.

I know the Paint Booth needs explosion proof lights but does the whole area need the same>?

 

[Platonic Solid]

Not enough info. Requires Length x Width x Height of space. Pics would help too. Big *** LED is a seriously overpriced fixture. 46,000 Lumen 325W James fixture is too high output for most shop applications. No comment on the explosion proof question as that is a code compliance issue.

 

[motofool33]

Not enough info. Requires Length x Width x Height of space. Pics would help too. Big *** LED is a seriously overpriced fixture. 46,000 Lumen 325W James fixture is too high output for most shop applications. No comment on the explosion proof question as that is a code compliance issue.

Ill get the exact dimensions soon when i get access, but its 5800ft of work space half is machanic shop half is body shop if i had a guess its 40ft deep x 50ft wide.

my main question is do the lights need to be explosion proof in the entire area or only in the paint booth.

ive got some crude pics of the current lighting. one sec let me upload them

 

[motofool33]

Ill get the exact dimensions soon when i get access, but its 5800ft of work space half is machanic shop half is body shop if i had a guess its 40ft deep x 50ft wide.

my main question is do the lights need to be explosion proof in the entire area or only in the paint booth.

ive got some crude pics of the current lighting. one sec let me upload them

Some photos


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[motofool33]

Doors on left body shop doors on right mechanic shop.
Ceiling is typical 19-20ft


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[cybrdyke]

Hazardous location is determined by either your Fire Marshal or your insurance company.
CD

 

[motofool33]

Hazardous location is determined by either your Fire Marshal or your insurance company.
CD

okay assuming i needed a dust proof and vapor tight explosion proof LED light for this application do we have any suggestions while i research if its required.

 

[nsula_country]

I think the linear fixtures would be fine at 20'.

CT

 

[motofool33]

okay space is 50x125 last 25 is office space, so working areas are 50x50 each

 

[cybrdyke]

okay assuming i needed a dust proof and vapor tight explosion proof LED light for this application do we have any suggestions while i research if its required.

Not really. Whatever fixture you get will need to be "paint spray booth rated", not just vaportight or explosion proof. If there's a booth there already, does it have compliant lights in it? If so, I'd leave them alone. If not, it's hard to recommend a fixture without knowing the set up of the booth. You can google paint spray booth lights to see the myriad of styles. Hold on to your wallet!
CD

 

[motofool33]

Not really. Whatever fixture you get will need to be "paint spray booth rated", not just vaportight or explosion proof. If there's a booth there already, does it have compliant lights in it? If so, I'd leave them alone. If not, it's hard to recommend a fixture without knowing the set up of the booth. You can google paint spray booth lights to see the myriad of styles. Hold on to your wallet!
CD

im not talking about in the booth im talking about above it, in the work area around the booth.

 

[Bopbop]

I would go with a fixture that is classified as a "high Bay" fixture. These are designed to be mounted in tall buildings. Typically the lights in the garage or body shop does not have to be vaportight or explosion proof. Just looking it does not appear that the existing are. I would check with the locale building inspector to verify the code in your area. We have done a few shops and body shops that the lights where not vapor tite of explosion proof. these are in the shop not the paint booth.
In my new shop we used Metalux "VHBLED-LD1-9-W-UNV-L840-CD1-U lights. These are small, put out a lot of light. They are mounted 14 o 17 feet up. The fixture is about 18" wide by 24" long. They have several different output ratings.

 

[cybrdyke]

im not talking about in the booth im talking about above it, in the work area around the booth.

Ahh...sorry if I misunderstood.
If the booth ventilation system is good, then the area around it is likely not a hazardous area. It's probably still worth checking into, just to cover your ****.

If it's not hazardous, then any good LED highbay will work. There are so many different manufacturers, it's mind blowing. At 20' you can use practically anything. Start by getting the dimensions and get a layout done.

 

[motofool33]

Ahh...sorry if I misunderstood.
If the booth ventilation system is good, then the area around it is likely not a hazardous area. It's probably still worth checking into, just to cover your ****.

If it's not hazardous, then any good LED highbay will work. There are so many different manufacturers, it's mind blowing. At 20' you can use practically anything. Start by getting the dimensions and get a layout done.

The only other big question i have is what is my target cri for near sunlight effects.



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[motofool33]

I would go with a fixture that is classified as a "high Bay" fixture. These are designed to be mounted in tall buildings. Typically the lights in the garage or body shop does not have to be vaportight or explosion proof. Just looking it does not appear that the existing are. I would check with the locale building inspector to verify the code in your area. We have done a few shops and body shops that the lights where not vapor tite of explosion proof. these are in the shop not the paint booth.
In my new shop we used Metalux "VHBLED-LD1-9-W-UNV-L840-CD1-U lights. These are small, put out a lot of light. They are mounted 14 o 17 feet up. The fixture is about 18" wide by 24" long. They have several different output ratings.

Thanks for the suggestion ill compare them to the james linears in my other space

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[cybrdyke]

The only other big question i have is what is my target cri for near sunlight effects.



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Not sure if you mean CRI or CCT, so here's both:
For Color Rendering Index, which is how well the lights define the colors of objects place below them:
The artificial light that we've worked under for decades has been in the 70 range. Better light over the last 10 years, as well as most current LED light is in the mid 80 range. There are plenty of products out there that are in the 90 range. 90-ish is still difficult and definitely more expensive. Any references to CRI are compared to a reference incandescent light bulb, which, in a lab, is considered 100CRI. Your target should be the highest number that the fixture style you choose is capable of.
For Correlated Color Temperature (CCT): The color temperature that the lights produce ranges from warm tones to cool tones. In body shops, most seem to prefer the cooler lights, like 5000K, although this is STRICTLY a personal preference. Painters may prefer their lights even cooler, like 6500K.
"Sunlight", or, more correctly, "Daylight" isn't used as a reference, because it changes too much.
CD

 

[motofool33]

searching for a CRI higher than 80 is a pain if you dont want to spend big bucks, but ive found a few options:

https://www.greenledzone.com/21-120...nty-etl-listed-dlc-listed-title-24-compliant/
those look well built with a nice Heatsink on the back.
ATG Stellar220$

https://www.warehouse-lighting.com/...igh-bay-162w-5000k-frosted-lens-120-277v.aspx
falcon 167$


https://www.greenledzone.com/15-500...dimming-l70-198-000-hours-ul-and-dlc-premium/
153$ Howard

https://www.greenledzone.com/27-482...-hour-life-5-year-warranty-ul-and-dlc-listed/
LEDOne 139$

 

[Platonic Solid]

When search CRI criteria suggest sticking with >80 or >90 specifications. The difference between 80 and 85 CRI is negligible. Also, recommend avoiding all fixtures with exposed LEDs especially if CRI is important to you. Exposed LEDs are subject to phosphor contamination which will significantly effect CRI, CCT and Lumen output.

Note: You can not clean an LED. Strongly recommend a lens. Diffusing/frosted lens is even better.

 

[motofool33]

When search CRI criteria suggest sticking with >80 or >90 specifications. The difference between 80 and 85 CRI is negligible. Also, recommend avoiding all fixtures with exposed LEDs especially if CRI is important to you. Exposed LEDs are subject to phosphor contamination which will significantly effect CRI, CCT and Lumen output.

is a simple plastic lense slid infront of the leds enough to combat the Phosphor contamination? or do they need to be sealed?

the James Ind we did on my shop build you did the layout for are not sealed much just a plastic frosted lense slid in front of them. if you slide out the lense they are exposed.

 

[Platonic Solid]

A basic lens should be fine. Just want to keep the majority of the toxic LED killing dust off of them. Beyond that I would look at improved ventilation before spending extra $ on dust tight fixtures. If you can find decent prices for dust tight fixtures, they're worth considering. They usually have plastic housings and if made with quality components should have efficiency >130 L/W. Lower efficiency is normal for >90 CRI fixtures.

 

[jgromada]

a lot of good information in here. placing this comment so i can get back here in the future