Overhead storage loft - Input appreciated

[Sanderskog]

First off, what a great forum!

I am looking for input on the best route to go down for building a storage loft in the back bay of my garage. The garage is a 4 car which is three wide with a fourth tandem bay. The ceiling is at lease 14 feet.

I currently have a house with a three car tandem. In the back bay the previous owners built a storage "shelf" which went across the width of the back bay and was about 6 feet deep and hung down about 3.5 feet from the ceiling. I initially had planned to do something similar here but am now considering doing a full loft with either a fixed or pull down attic ladder. Another option I considered was two shelves running down each side with the center open.

I'm assuming a number of you have some something similar and wanted to get your input on which route to go as well as your thoughts on design.

Sorry about the image quality, the pictures were taken with my phone.

The bay in question (gallon 1 into a 10 gallon paint job and I can still see tape)

The garage as it sits today (the image is distorted due to the app I used to stich a few pictures together).

Thanks,
Todd

 

[GarageXXI]

Nice Space!

How far out would you want the shelves on both sides if you leave the center open? The reason I ask is because the longer you cantilever out the shelves, you would eventually need a support.

If you choose to go with the full attic option I suggest using Simpson strong ties. These are simple to install and would provide with the support you would need for storage.

http://www.strongtie.com/products/categories/joist-hangers_diy.html

Keep us posted on your build.

 

[28HopUp]

I would love to have an alcove like that in the back of my garage! So many ways to go with a space like that!

I know that you said you want to use it for storage, but that would make a tidy shop area for workbenches, wall cabinets, toolboxes, floor tools, etc., and still leave you the option to create storage over the wall cabinets (I'm thinking enclosed soffits with sliding doors). Or you could use a sliding library ladder to access the overhead storage area(s). Or make the area a man-cave with entertainment, refreshments, and seating. Or ???

Keep reading other threads for ideas.

 

[Sanderskog]

The space below the storage will absolutely be a shop area with a bench and cabinets. The goal of the overhead storage is to get all the non-critical (wife) stuff out of my garage.

I like the idea of a library ladder.

Keep the ideas coming!

Todd

 

[Dan5602896]

I have a 3 bay garage. Over one bay is a loft. It is 14' to the peak, that allowed me to stand erect with 2' walls at the sides. What you don't see in this photo is the 12' rail and trolly that I will use a small 4 pulley block and tackle for lifting. I have this loft setup with rail in my shed also. It allows me to put my impliments to my garden tractor up out of the way.

In the garage, it will also be used for putting the part in an organized manor as I redo any vehicle. I have 7.5' under the loft. This allows me to use the Maxjax in the middle bay or under the loft. I play to set it wide in the middle and narrow under the loft.

I specifically chose not to have fixed or drop down stairs, as I have found a ladder and the rail work just fine. Though, I may make a set of folding stairs that will come down from the front edge later.

 

[imavanner2]

looks pretty wide with out any suport. What size beam you runnin?

I have a 3 bay garage. Over one bay is a loft. It is 14' to the peak, that allowed me to stand erect with 2' walls at the sides. What you don't see in this photo is the 12' rail and trolly that I will use a small 4 pulley block and tackle for lifting. I have this loft setup with rail in my shed also. It allows me to put my impliments to my garden tractor up out of the way.

In the garage, it will also be used for putting the part in an organized manor as I redo any vehicle. I have 7.5' under the loft. This allows me to use the Maxjax in the middle bay or under the loft. I play to set it wide in the middle and narrow under the loft.

I specifically chose not to have fixed or drop down stairs, as I have found a ladder and the rail work just fine. Though, I may make a set of folding stairs that will come down from the front edge later.

 

[Sanderskog]

That's another question, do you think I'll be OK with running a beam without a post to cross the span?

 

[Dan5602896]

looks pretty wide with out any suport. What size beam you runnin?

Had an engineer figure it. 24' LVL. 3 pieces to make it 6" wide. I believe it is a 2 X 10 for each section. The joist is 2 x 8 with hangers on the beam, jack stud at the wall. This made the construction simple.

This is not meant to be a second floor as in a house. So, I accept some springing of the floor.

The overall deck is 24 long, about 11' deep.

 

[Grigg]

My ceiling is about 18', and I put up two 8' sections of pallet racking about 14' tall on the back wall.
The shelves are adjustable for height.
Have about 5 or 6 spare and parts engines, as many transmissions, and even my truck cab stored on the top shelf.

On the floor under one section is the welding table, you don't have to use the shelves floor to ceiling if you still want the floor space for something else.

You may need a forklift to make the best use of it, but if all you have is light stuff a ladder could work.

Grigg

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd probably frame a floor in to create an attic space. I'm not sure of what the width is but 2x10s may work. I'd nail the header right into the studs (after removing the drywall) and use Simson strong ties like mentioned above for the rafters.

You could even incorporate some vertical supports for the headers along the wall out of 4x4s. These could double as the back legs for the workbench.

 

[csp]

That's another question, do you think I'll be OK with running a beam without a post to cross the span?

Absolutely if you size it correctly and go with something like an LVL beam. What is the width of that bay?

I would tie it into the existing wall framing by removing some drywall and installing jack studs under the ends to bear the weight.