Overheating Tool Protocol?

[tarbellb]

Yesterday I had two different tools come close to overheating. I realized I dont really know what the best method to help reduce heating after its happened?

Obviously stopping before permanent damage is done is key.

So what is the best thing to do after a tool has shown signs of overheating

(body is extremely hot to touch, smell, overload triggered)?

1) let sit until signs go away

2) run the tool at speed with no load to cycle air

3) blow compressed air through the body

4) something else?

* both these tools are corded, but I have had my Fuel and other cordless show symptoms as well.

And please dont tell me about tool abuse or not using the tool correctly. Both cases are well within the tools capability range. I use my tools in a professional environment, and I use them hard to earn a paycheck. Thats why I buy nicer stuff, tools w/ warranty, and treat them as well as possible (hence the thread).


Funny photo I found, not my drill....er molten plastic.

 

[hangfirew8]

If I'm drilling hard for a while and things are getting hot, I let the drill free run for 15 seconds or so. The high RPM blows lots of cool air through the motor. Then I let it set for a while.

 

[larry_g]

I've found that at times when drilling hard I tend to put a second hand over the cooling vents. So check your procedure and how you hold the tool.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[redmondjp]

Blowing compressed air through it will help.

 

[tarbellb]

Keep in mind, neither of these tools was a drill actually. I should probably remove that photo knowing some will read the title only and look at the pic and reply.

But yeah, I also notice I cover the vents on my drills when applying lots of pressure.

 

[Farmall450]

Keep in mind, neither of these tools was a drill actually. I should probably remove that photo knowing some will read the title only and look at the pic and reply.

But yeah, I also notice I cover the vents on my drills when applying lots of pressure.

Then what tools were they?

 

[ItsNemo]

Sorry but I've never had a tool come even close to overheating during heavy use. Use the proper tool for the job...there's usually a bigger version of the tool you are abusing that is meant for it. Not everything can be done with a 4.5" grinder and a cordless hammer drill.

And please dont tell me about tool abuse or not using the tool correctly. Both cases are well within the tools capability range. I use my tools in a professional environment, and I use them hard to earn a paycheck. Thats why I buy nicer stuff, tools w/ warranty, and treat them as well as possible (hence the thread).

The irony in this statement is worth quoting for posterity sake.

 

[tarbellb]

Tools in question are Metabo 710+ vari speed die grinder using a 3M purple pad to debur holes.

The other was Milwaukee 6370-21 8" metal cutting circ saw, cutting 1/4" plate.

So ItsNemo, where did I go wrong with this application?

And never come close to overheating eh, impressive. Can I ask what kind of work you do?

 

[Buckgnarly]

Twice this Summer I had a VERY well worn/used (belongs to a friend who is a builder by trade) Milwaukee Fuel M18 hammer drill so hot I could not even touch it, and it just kept trucking. I was drilling 1/2" holes for some concrete bolts....that made me VERY impressed by what those tools are capable of.

I always thought the cordless stuff shutdown in case of overheating, or maybe that's just the batteries?

In OP's case, I would not worry too much, just use the tools and let them take an occasional break!

 

[bcradio]

Sorry but I've never had a tool come even close to overheating during heavy use.

Then either you don't use tools for very much or you only use them in -20 degree Canadian weather.

When you are using jackhammers all day to break up concrete, demo hammers all day, or sawzalls for hours on end, welders at or near their duty cycle limit, they will get very hot.

 

[rpcraft]

I can't say I have ever really run anything with great enough frequency to cause an overheat but I figure my Ridgid 18 volt drill is the thing I used the most next to my small grinder/death wheels. I have one that I am pretty sure is a harbor freight and I've put it through hell cutting through steel and aluminum up to 2 inches thick at times (bar stock), and then I have a second one with a flap disc from black and decker (saves time changing from cutting to grinding). I've dropped them by accident and run them continuously while polishing stuff for maybe a half hour or longer (like with wirebrush wheel attachments). I know they are not supposed to be used like buffers but they offer a lot more torque than a buffer and I've yet to have one get hot enough to make me think it was going to melt down... The drill on the other hand shoots sparks out of the back end when i hit the trigger so I am constantly afraid its going to burst into flames or ignite something flammable.

 

[ItsNemo]

Tools in question are Metabo 710+ vari speed die grinder using a 3M purple pad to debur holes.

The other was Milwaukee 6370-21 8" metal cutting circ saw, cutting 1/4" plate.

So ItsNemo, where did I go wrong with this application?

And never come close to overheating eh, impressive. Can I ask what kind of work you do?

Die grinder should be an air powered one, they never overheat along with a 100% duty cycle air compressor. I personally use Ingersoll Rand die grinders and a 60 gallon 5hp 2 stage 100% duty cycle compressor. I can go all day long with a die grinder.

Metal cutting circular saw, depending what you're cutting, a plasma cutter might be better or moving up to water jet. I would expect the 8" metal cutting saw would be absolutely fine with setup time between cuts, I can't picture any application where I'd run one for long enough to cause it to overheat...if it's production work, all day every day, there's no way anyone would use a hand powered saw for this.

I do mechanical, metal fab, and construction work at home. Not a professional setting but no different than a mechanic at a car dealership or a welder/fab at their shop or a carpenter building a house...I work at the same pace but I also tend to buy better power tools.

Then either you don't use tools for very much or you only use them in -20 degree Canadian weather.

When you are using jackhammers all day to break up concrete, demo hammers all day, or sawzalls for hours on end, welders at or near their duty cycle limit, they will get very hot.

Yup, my demo hammer I've gone all day in the middle of summer with before and it did get hot but never overheated where there were bad smells or damage. Welders, of course they're going to get hot but as long as you stay within the duty cycle no big deal. Again like my previous post said, there are usually bigger tools for the job. In the case of welders they make ones that can run 650 amp at 100% duty cycle (yes 650a @ 100%) all day long (see Miller Deltaweld 652 as an example). So if you're overheating your welder trying to weld 1/2" plate all day non-stop, get a bigger machine or slow down, otherwise it's abuse.

 

[bcradio]

Yup, my demo hammer I've gone all day in the middle of summer with before and it did get hot but never overheated where there were bad smells or damage. Welders, of course they're going to get hot but as long as you stay within the duty cycle no big deal. Again like my previous post said, there are usually bigger tools for the job. In the case of welders they make ones that can run 650 amp at 100% duty cycle (yes 650a @ 100%) all day long (see Miller Deltaweld 652 as an example). So if you're overheating your welder trying to weld 1/2" plate all day non-stop, get a bigger machine or slow down, otherwise it's abuse.

I think this is the key distinction here. I certainly agree that you should never have a need to overheat a tool and it would constitute abuse if you do. However, there are a number of reasons to use a tool until it is hot. Simply let it cool down and carry on.

 

[apollo11]

air tools cool themselves

 

[Brian_WK]

Yesterday I had two different tools come close to overheating. I realized I dont really know what the best method to help reduce heating after its happened?

Obviously stopping before permanent damage is done is key.

So what is the best thing to do after a tool has shown signs of overheating

(body is extremely hot to touch, smell, overload triggered)?

1) let sit until signs go away

2) run the tool at speed with no load to cycle air

3) blow compressed air through the body

4) something else?

* both these tools are corded, but I have had my Fuel and other cordless show symptoms as well.

And please dont tell me about tool abuse or not using the tool correctly. Both cases are well within the tools capability range. I use my tools in a professional environment, and I use them hard to earn a paycheck. Thats why I buy nicer stuff, tools w/ warranty, and treat them as well as possible (hence the thread).


Funny photo I found, not my drill....er molten plastic.

When all you have is a hammer everything looks like a nail...

Im in the category of run it free air until it has cooled off. Once I have reached that point I do the 1:2 Method every one minute of use gets 2 minutes of cool down/ no load running. I try not to set anything down that is very hot that has brushes after I ran a dremel so hot that I couldn't touch it and sat it down to cool off. The brushes melted into the carriers it heat soaked so bad. Remember what ever heat you feel on the outside of the tool the inside is way worse.

Brian

 

[Brian_WK]

air tools cool themselves

A properly lubed air tool will adequately cool itself.

Brian

 

[tarbellb]

I dont want to get off topic here, this discussion should be what to do after a tool has demonstrated any overuse symptoms -

excessive heat, smell, or tripping a breaker or hitting its built-in overload.

2:1 rest to use is interesting. Seems like a solid rule of thumb to go by, sure would be hard to be looking at that tool and not using it.... ha.

I do a similar thing, find a different task for that project that doesnt require the tool in question then come back to it after.

 

[ItsNemo]

I dont want to get off topic here, this discussion should be what to do after a tool has demonstrated any overuse symptoms -

excessive heat, smell, or tripping a breaker or hitting its built-in overload.

2:1 rest to use is interesting. Seems like a solid rule of thumb to go by, sure would be hard to be looking at that tool and not using it.... ha.

I do a similar thing, find a different task for that project that doesnt require the tool in question then come back to it after.

Put the tool down and go buy/rent one that can actually do the job.

 

[Roberts210]

I've used one of my Milwaukee belt sanders until it was too hot to handle. I assumed they were rated "continuous" but I just looked at one of them and it doesn't say continuous duty. It only says Heavy Duty and I think that's just Milwaukee's (well deserved) slogan. It's never stopped working tho, and it never once smelled burned--just got hot.

 

[Mohawk Dave]

I have both those tools. Electric die grinders get hot simply because they spin so fast and build heat. I'd just free spin for 10 seconds then let cool by itself.

My 8" Milwaukee metal saw gets warm, but not hot. I cut up to 1/2" plate and sometimes larger. Maybe a dull blade making it work harder? I also use Hougen Slick Stik on my cUT line. It's a wax type cutting fluid that really prolongs the life of the blade.

 

[fsae0607]

I usually do #2 & #3 together.

 

[tarbellb]

Put the tool down and go buy/rent one that can actually do the job.

Something tells me you are a keyboard jockey Nemo, talk a lot but probably look at your tools more then you use them. Thats cool, looking up tool specs, quoting "use a water jet" makes you look like a real pro.

I will keep using my tools, finding the limits on some, and upgrading as needed.

Next time you hire a guy to do that big job at your house, ask him if his tools every get hot.

 

[Ign]

Keep in mind, neither of these tools was a drill actually. I should probably remove that photo knowing some will read the title only and look at the pic and reply.

But yeah, I also notice I cover the vents on my drills when applying lots of pressure.

This. No one reads & people are going to think this is your drill.

Anyway on the corded metal cutting saw Milwaukee provides two options: they say you can let it sit for X minutes or let it free-run for Y minutes.

I only remember this ‘cause it’s the first time I’ve ever seen a manufacturer address tool cooling in such detail. You could find the model # online and then grab the .pdf manual if you really care to see what they say.

Me, I’m inclined to just let them sit.

edit: I see you know it’s the 6370-21. So the advice is: READ YOUR OWNER’S MANUAL LOL

 

[tarbellb]

I have both those tools. Electric die grinders get hot simply because they spin so fast and build heat. I'd just free spin for 10 seconds then let cool by itself.

My 8" Milwaukee metal saw gets warm, but not hot. I cut up to 1/2" plate and sometimes larger. Maybe a dull blade making it work harder? I also use Hougen Slick Stik on my cUT line. It's a wax type cutting fluid that really prolongs the life of the blade.

Nice, thats the impression I was under with the Metabo. They get used all day long by granite installers with little to no rest and in nasty environments.

It was crazy hot tho, I could feel it through my gloves. So I did just that, free spin it for bit then go do something else for a while.

The Milwaukee 8" saw is a different story, trips its built-in breaker all the time. I finally put it down and investigated and think I found the culprit.
Where the base plate connects to the front body has a lot of play, rocking, which I think leads to the blade binding up and stalling out the motor. I put a brand new OE blade on and ran it on its own circuit just to eliminate any issues.

I changed my technique to compensate a little more and it helped but I want to replace that pin with something tighter fitting.

You should check yours, see if its unique to mine or what?

 

[dr_clyde]

Most Metabo tools have build in electrical circuitry to prevent damage to the tool when it overheats. I have overheated my 6" metabo on a couple of occasions when working it hard. Usually doing a lot of cutoff wheel work. In this case, I let it sit and cool down on its own. I then pick up the other grinder and get back to work while the hot one cools.

If the circuitry allows it, I see no problem with free wheeling to use the onboard fan to cool the internals.

As far as good tools never overheating, that's complete and utter ********. Every brand of tool will get hot when using it to its duty cycle. The trick is to stop and cool down so you don't wreck anything.

Air tools have a duty cycle too. They can frost up and get downright uncomfortable to use if the air supply can keep up.

 

[Robert Haas]

Just dip them in a bucket of water when they get too hot

 

[tarbellb]

As always, good to hear from you dr_clyde.

Good idea Haas! Corded tools are perfect for dunking, use the cord to pull it back out right?

 

[Ign]

On page 10 here Milwaukee specifies what they consider acceptable cutting time in various thicknesses of plate, after which you're supposed to do 6 min of "free spin" or 60 minutes switched off. So it would seem they consider no-load use to work 10 times faster than sitting to cool

https://documents.milwaukeetool.com/58-14-6370d7.pdf

 

[tarbellb]

Thanks Ign, I actually looked it up after you posted the recommendation.

The duty cycle on this saw is lower than I expected honestly. I probably ran it harder then
what is recommended, but 15" @ 3/8" (does not have a 1/4" rating) is not much if you have to let it cool for 60mins after.

But confirmed my suspicion about cycling the motor w/ no load as a great way to cool off a tool.

For anybody not wanting to check out the link:

Milwaukee recommends 60 mins unplugged OR 6 mins of no load power.

 

[Ign]

Those saws are only an 8A motor IIRC? I dunno why Milwaukee didn’t go bigger. They’re asking a lot of a motor which is small relative to the task at hand.

I think a lot of 7.25” circular saws are more than 8A?

 

[ItsNemo]

Something tells me you are a keyboard jockey Nemo, talk a lot but probably look at your tools more then you use them. Thats cool, looking up tool specs, quoting "use a water jet" makes you look like a real pro.

I will keep using my tools, finding the limits on some, and upgrading as needed.

Next time you hire a guy to do that big job at your house, ask him if his tools every get hot.

Yeah, that's it...I designed and built this myself in the spring at my house...only part I hired out was digging the holes.

Last year I installed my Bendpak flush mount scissor lift...including cutting and breaking out the 6 inch slab with my demo hammer and my concrete saw.

Oh, and this was a fun little clutch replacement the other day...

No biggy, take a subframe out...drop a transmission.

So yeah, I'm totally useless, don't have any tools, don't ever use them.

And I'm glad you can admit exactly what I said tools do have limits, they make bigger/better ones with higher limits, when the tool you have can't cut it, upgrade to something that can.

 

[Musicinabottle]

Then either you don't use tools for very much or you only use them in -20 degree Canadian weather.

When you are using jackhammers all day to break up concrete, demo hammers all day, or sawzalls for hours on end, welders at or near their duty cycle limit, they will get very hot.

I myself have used these things all day, as a professional and have never taken it to the point where you start smelling burning insulation and what have you. I generally pause to run the tool with no load until it cools down. All my tools are American, Japanese or German made by the way.

 

[derosa]

I had to cut some 4.5" and 3" holes with a cheap pasload drill and ran out of batteries before I got too hot. I've also run sawzalls continuous till the front guide came loose doing demolition work but I've never had any get too hot or overheat. Can't say the same for the blades but that's a different issue. Can't imagine with good blades or bits that a tool should easily overheat without there being a mitigating problem causing it.

 

[redwrench60]

No need to have a congressional inquiry or reinvent the wheel. If you’re using something too hard it’ll tell you. If it needs a rest, let it rest. If it starts smoking and going really sideways then maybe unplug it and step away, time for a smoke break.

 

[BFBOB]

Building a deck in Oklahoma summer, I rotated 3 drills (2nd gen Milwaukee 12v nicad -this has been a while!), kept the drills and charger sitting in front of a window fan in the shade whenever not actually drilling. They still got hot to the touch, but no damage done.

I'm not sure I buy the running no-load theory, but blowing ambient air through it definitely works, even if ambient is 105 degrees.

ps- two of those drills are still in use today - after many cell replacements.

 

[mbshop]

I don't get it. Is it so hard to grasp that if a tool is getting really hot that it is being used beyond its intended use. If so you let it cool down. There is no mystery here.

 

[Musicinabottle]

I don't get it. Is it so hard to grasp that if a tool is getting really hot that it is being used beyond its intended use. If so you let it cool down. There is no mystery here.

You'd be amazed. I've know two friends who ran vehicles hot until they died. One of them actually had oil boiling out the engine.

 

[ItsNemo]

I don't get it. Is it so hard to grasp that if a tool is getting really hot that it is being used beyond its intended use. If so you let it cool down. There is no mystery here.

This...or it's a cheap/poorly made tool to begin with. Let's face it, $20 no name angle grinders tend to burn up even if you only use them for 2 minutes.

 

[MikeF2316]

The only thing I ever "burned up" was a Craftsman cordless drill battery charger. We were building a deck, putting the deckboards on at my brother's house, back in the Ni-Cad days. Batteries were either being charged or running the drills. (2 drills, 2 chargers, 4 batteries.) About half way through the job, when we went to swap batteries, one wasn't charged. After a little troubleshooting we figured it was the charger. Post mortem teardown showed a blown thermal fuse tucked into the transformer. A new fuse and all was well. We put the other charger inside the house (air conditioning) and put a fan on it to finish the job.